FPR Before or After Injectors

[trdee]

shit dont make no sense...

[thechuckster]

The sard should only work one way - the internal spring & diaphram are setup to have high-pressure (e.g. rail pressure) on one side only. Going the other way, it'll be fighting the wrong way against the spring pressure and changes in manifold vacuum will have the reverse effect (when manifold vacuum is higher you need less fuel pressure, running backwards the regulator will do the opposite).

Can you get some phone pics of the setup and post them - something sounds very wrong.

Going back to your original post:

fuel pressure goes up and down

correct- the fuel pressure will vary manifold vacuum varies as the engine is at various load and rpm states - this is normal.

By chance, was your car originally tuned with a fixed-pressure fuel supply?

But when I hooked it up before injectors its run without any problem

and this is how you would setup a carbi supply where you want a continuous and stable fuel supply (tho usually only at a few psi). See question above.

but pressure gauge in FPR won't display anything, gauge in end of fuel rail display around 38psi.

yes, the gauge - if setup like you describe is on the return line to the tank and effectively open and not holding any pressure

This is how mine (and just about any other Sard regulator I've seen) was setup on my old car and is setup the same on the GT4:


note: the fuel in port and the pressure gauge port open into the same space in the regulator. You can check this by blowing into one of those ports and putting your finger over the other port. It will only come out the bottom port when you overcome (e.g. can blow ~38psi) the regulator spring.

[Animal15]

thechuckster

i knw man it's weird to me too,

cars running with stock ECU before , now got adaptronic with base map,

photo-bucket delete my acc, I'll upload them soon.

[allencr]

Two different types of FPRs, before-the-injectors type, closed loop that has unregulated inlet pressure & regulates its output, and the after-the-injectors type, an open loop that regulates its input pressure & unregulated output.
Does the manufacturer have 2 models or does it have plugged ports switch it?

[thechuckster]

All the SARD FPRs are for post-injector use and vacuum/boost referenced to regulate pressure on the line coming into the body. Only differences are the body colours and the larger model (RJ) for fuly hektic race use.

SARD>PRODUCTS>FUEL REGULATOR

fwiw, my regulator came from 1JZ747 off his race car - the smaller units are quite adeqaute at flowing significant amounts of fuel while maintaining stable rail pressure.

[Animal15]

Thnx lot guys , Diagrams right; Problem is in my Base map.

first of all my pressure gauge is wrong ; it display wrong reading , after we put new gauge and increase the pressure up to 70psi then car starts with diagram setup (won't starts below that, won't ideal cut down below 2.5k), i think base map pressure is way too high or something

so base map pressure is not right that's why when i hooked it up wrong way car start without any problem, cause FPR won't do what it supposes to do injectors get same pressure what ever the pump produce.

haven't got lap top , so had to wait until take it to Tune to c how far off the base map is.

I should have done this first place put too much trust on Base Tune.

[thechuckster]

with engine off and ppump running, you should get 35-38psi in the rail. As manifold vacuum increases, that pressure will come down.

Running a static pressure of 70psi is spectatularly wrong.

[Animal15]

I know man it's for just test, gonna adjust it right 2day.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

yeah static 70psi is a bit large...........

:-)

[CrUZida]

Does it run fine on the stock FPR with the current tune?
If so, it should run the same with the Sard FPR (once you have the pressure set the same)

Most base maps are pretty driveable...

[Animal15]

CrUZida

Don't know abt that , don't have stock FPR anymore,
With that map couldn't get it to Idle but it's smooth over 3k lets c ............

[Casey-G]

Oem return lines, oem dampener and oem reg with my adjsutable reg all in series have all worked for me in the past for me.. i think your problem resides with either true location of your adjustable reg or a software input error..



* just a thought but why not just rip the rail out and tap the old in/out ports on the rail for hose barbs and just go from there route it all right and neaten it up in the process, from what i have found the dampener being removed made no difference with a higher rated pump. My gauge is mounted directly on the rail which is where you want to know the pressure is correct, the rubber hoses can balloon a bit and cause the gauge on the reg to bounce around n do funny stuff ive noticed.

my 2c