2t troubleshooting please help

[Sirsh]

Hi all,

Finally got my cars engine back together after a month of being pulled apart. Im very keen to drive this car again and would greatly appreciated it if you could help me!

I just started my car, with abit of difficulty, needed to use aerostart to start it up first time. The car is jumpy when idling around 800rpm.. When I try take it above 1500-2000rpm it starts to stutter and then you hear a pop sound. The cars extractors heat up so much in little time, even though the cooling system is on and the car has coolant in it, I look at the temp and its not even risen yet as it only has been ran for a couple minutes.. So I dont understand why the extractors are getting so hot.

The car has all new cooling pipes, new spark plugs, new coolant, new leads, new gaskets from head up, new coil pack, all new distributor parts, has a brand new thermostat in it too.

Please try help me out.

Cheers

[river]

Hi,

The extractors get hot because the engine is dumping hot exhaust gas into them. What do you think is coming out in the exhaust? Iced air?

As far as the engine performance goes..... you pulled the head, and put in a new head gasket? Check your cam timing. Also, check your dizzy timing, and check for leaks around the carby and inlet manifold.

seeyuzz
river

[ta22fan]

I had similar issues with a 2T following a de-coke and valve grind. I thought that I'd set the ignition timing about right on rebuild, but engine was hard to start and running rough. Eventually rechecked the timing and it was way out (more than 10 degrees). Once I corrected this - all good. Best bet is to check all the basics - compression, fuel, ignition. The 2T is such a simple engine - the problem is likely to be pretty obvious.

cheers

[Hurricane]

im thinking ether or all off:

valve clearance to tight
timing not set correctly
firing order incorrect
or a carby issuse

dan.

[Sirsh]

Hey all thanks for the replies, I've talked to a few people and they thought it was the timing too so I brought a timing light and set the timing (tried) only problem is my idle of my car is jumpy and I cant get a steady setting on 10degrees/800rpm. It was initially set on 5 ATDC, This is all due to me assuming that the notches in my timing cover 20,15,10,5,0,5 are correct and that I should be setting to 10 on that scale. When I tried my hardest to set to 10degrees it still backfired and had not much power (drove it down the street, couldnt get over 2000rpm in 2nd gear) Idles okay though. Firing order is correct aswell, hopefully i am setting it in the right direction..

[allencr]

Forget the timing light, move the dizzy for the fastest & smoothest idle, then back off a little. Backing off means retarding it from where it runs the best, turning in the same direction that the rotor turns, about less then 1cm. Is the mechanical advance movement free & springy?
Pull or short 1 plug wire at a time to find out if ALL the cylinders are running equally. If not you gotta figure out why!!!!
What's the compression?

[Sirsh]

Hey the compression was around, Cyl 1 - 145psi, Cyl 2 - 145psi, Cyl 3 - ~132psi and Cyl 4 - ~132Psi. What do you mean by this "Pull or short 1 plug wire at a time to find out if ALL the cylinders are running equally. If not you gotta figure out why!!!!
What's the compression?" Cheers

[Rodger]

Sirsh.

Reads like it is running very lean. Have the vacuum tubes, brake booster hose and PCV pipes been connected back up? No vacuum leaks? I'll assume it is a 2T with down draft Aisan carb. The exhaust can get very hot with a lean mixture, even at idle and can get to glow cherry red very quickly.
Symptoms of a very lean mixture, hard to start, will not idle at a good speed, pops and spits at that idle, no power moving from idle, does not drop to idle quickly or holds a fast idle, very hot exhaust manifold.

What if you pull on the choke a bit to make for a rich mixture?

Regards
Rodger

[Sirsh]

Hey Roger, How do you adjust the way the fuel/air mixture is mixed? The vacuum lines are all good. It's a 32/36 Redline Weber with Genie Extractors. Yeah it's hard to start without choke on and its not even cold in perth, pops and spits. I put the choke on and let it idle, idles around 1300-1500rpm..

[Rodger]

If it ran before ok then I could not suggest what may have happened to the carb during your work, exept to pull the carb down and check the idle circuit is not blocked.

If you have added the Weber whilst doing the rebuild then it will come down to idle mixture adjustment and then low speed jetting and perhaps primary jetting.

Choke richens up the mixture by blocking off the primary barrel and also opening the throttle plate a bit so it speeds up.

More info on carb history will be of benifit here.

Regards
Rodger

[Sirsh]

I brought the car two months ago, and it ran fine with the weber on it. I didnt adjust anything on the weber, apart from taking off the throttle linkages too disconnect it from the intake manifold. I have though replaced the distributor button, cap, rotor.. I accidently twisted the end of the part which has the vacuum line onto it though, but I have reset that to the standard setting, directed by my manual. Also, In the timing light instructions it says take the vacuum hose off and block it then do the timing. I know how to adjust the idle rpm but not the mixture.. I don't know where I would find a manual on rebuilding the carby either as it came with the engine. Off topic, Roger, what do you think about this, A bloke has a 2TG with twin mikuni side draphts for sale in WA for $700 bucks, the compression is between 125psi and 115psi, your opinion please.

THanks alot mate, Cheers.

[punkture]

The main compression isn't the issue it's the comparative cylinders, I.e 145 120 145 130 etc, check the bgb for the lowest comp but memory has it right itd be 145 or 125 etc, and a 15psi variance

[airfireman1]

Timing should be set between 8 and 10 degrees BEFOR TDC you have stated that you have set it to 10 after tdc.

[Sirsh]

Airfireman1, What do you mean? The degree's on the timing cover are 20|15|10|5|0|5 degrees, shouldn't I set for 10 on the LHS?

[tojo]

Hey the compression was around, Cyl 1 - 145psi, Cyl 2 - 145psi, Cyl 3 - ~132psi and Cyl 4 - ~132Psi. What do you mean by this "Pull or short 1 plug wire at a time to find out if ALL the cylinders are running equally. If not you gotta figure out why!!!!
What's the compression?" Cheers

To determine if engine is running on all four cylinders:

pull one plugwire and listen if the sound of the engine changes.
If yes , replace wire and move on to next cylinder.
If no, you have located a problem and need to find the reason.
Could be faulty sparkplug ,(even if new , especially if bosch) plug wire ,
dizzy cap, low comp (doubt it)

Left of 0 is Before TDC and right of 0 is After TDC so should be fine