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Thread: Snapped exhaust stud :(

  1. #16
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    South Australia
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    241

    Default Re: Snapped exhaust stud :(

    Only use the silver Neverseize on anything made of aluminium. The copper Neverseize will dissolve aluminium so you just have a bigger hole where your thread once was.

  2. #17
    Forum Member Grease Monkey
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    122

    Default Re: Snapped exhaust stud :(

    re. having stainless studs in spare head

    not really winning there.
    stainless studs are the worst for snapping, and hardest to get out.
    mild steel all the way for exhaust

  3. #18
    Toyota for life REP! Backyard Mechanic TTV8RA23's Avatar
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    Jun 2006
    Location
    Whakatane
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    225

    Default Re: Snapped exhaust stud :(

    ^^ Im with him, stainless studs not really ideal. they are the worst for picking up and snapping. I dont like the idea of running a die down the stud as this normally cuts undersize which is not what you need. give them a good wire brushing and a small amount of antiseize and tap the holes out with CRC as a tapping lube and youll be laughing. I work in an engineering shop and you would not belive the amount of heads blocks turbos etc etc that are brought in with broken bolts in them that people have tried to get out. Its fucken painfull cos 95% of the time they have either a broken drill in them or broken EZ out, sometimes both. This makes it a bit more of a challenge but still can be done with alot of time and patience.
    Kiwi back yard mechanic/fabricator/machinist/welder
    http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...t=tt1uzfe+RA23]

  4. #19
    Your mum is a Conversion King TERRA Operative's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Chiba
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    2,232

    Default Re: Snapped exhaust stud :(

    I just removed a stud out of a turbo exhaust housing that a mate snapped off.

    Turned out pretty easy in the end. I just drilled it out to *just* under the inner diameter of the threads, then used a punch and hammer to collapse the remaining stud inwards (there was a mm or so poking out the top). All that was left to do was to screw/rip it out with a pair of pointy nose pliers.
    I just used lots of CRC and ran a tap through all the threads afterwards and it was all done in about 15 minutes.

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