RN110 with dead 22R engine. Rebuild or conversion advice i'm new to toyotas?

[2JZXL]

First post sorry if I'm asking questions that have been asked 1000 times before.

I just bought an RN110 as title says and knew the 22R engine was stuffed, (blowing oil out the radiator) and from the limited research I've done sounds like heads cracking is common?

First question is are these motors worth wasting money on rebuilding, do they make enough power to tow an average weight car as I've never actually driven one?

I already have a conversion on the go 2JZ-GTE into a 1963 XL falcon so don't really want the extra headache of putting a 1UZ or something similar into the hilux but I do have 2 CT20 turbochargers, injectors etc from an aristo engine that I've thought about putting on the 22R engine but not sure if thats worth the hassle either.

Are there any fairly straight forward engine swaps into these hiluxs?

What other vehicles did the 22R come out in I read somewhere there's an EFI version of it and a turbo version also?

thank you!!

[thechuckster]

22RE was found in RA65 & RT142 Corona - but they'll be tired engines by now. Would be best to get the entire car if you went this route so you get all the electrics (some of the engine loom uses the chassis loom to go from AFM/Alt side of motor to the ECU and also the power/circuit opening relay is in the chassis loom at the battery. Obviously, an EFI fuel tank would be a given (or lift pump to a surge tank and then EFI pump after it).

The yanks find 22RTE a popular conversion over there, over here it's kindof frowned on. There's a big aftermarket for that motor over there.

I wouldn't want to tow a car and a heavy hilux with an old 22R/E, it would probably do it but wouldn't be fun. Personally, a turbo-diesel would be the preferred tow engine.

Thought about a 3RZ transplant from a newer hilux? Even NA, they're a decent engine.

[2JZXL]

Cheers thechuckster! I used to own a 2000 model 2wd hilux with the 3RZ it went alright can you tell me if they bolt in or if its a case of new engine mounts gear box/transfer case adaptors etc etc?

I'm pretty sure I'm just going to rebuild the 22R with some mods can get parts cost price from the states and like you said there pretty big over there. Thinking basic rebuild bottom end pistons, rings, bearings etc and rebuild head with slightly bigger cam, port work and maybe bigger valves with ARP head stud kit. Extractors and exhaust and bigger carb.

I want it to be torquey and reliable so won't be revving it stupid ringing its neck from what I've read they only like going to round 5000rpm anyway.

If anyones got any suggestions or tips or can point me to a link for building a tough as nails, torquey 22R please throw it up for me. Budgets a couple of grand or so.

thank you.

[maccac__1590]

if you buy parts out of the US it will turn out quite cheep, you can even buy pre ported heads and rebuild kits with come with a after market cams and valve springs as a package

even if you rebuild it standard specs and get the webber kit extractors and good full exhaust system it makes a huge difference over standard, in power and fuel economy.

i wouldn't realy worry about going efi, with the webber its simple, no electrics, anyone can fix it and if you tune it/get it tuned right it shouldn't cause any dramas

[2JZXL]

Thanks maccac thats what i'm going to do want to keep it simple don't need the hassle of changing to EFI or doing engine conversions will just be basic combo for everyday use with a bit more power than stock. I've had a quick look at those kits from the states will reasearch abit more before buying anything.

[Shifty]

Generally you can get an exchange 22R quite cheaply. I think places even list them on ebay, but remember mostly they're exchange so you have to pay shipping each way. If you are in the middle of another conversion, I'd recommend keeping this cheap & cheerful with another standard 22R. No headaches, no issues, just regular oil changes and another 200,000km of trouble free motoring before you have any more problems.

Don't get caught up modifying the 22R, honestly you'll get little/no real benefit and it will just be cost/hassle/etc. Leave it alone... listen to me, I'm the master of messing with stuff that hsould be left alone.

If you MUST modify it then do a standard rebuild but fit a basic weber & extractors. If you insist on going further, a small cam upgrade might be worth looking at, but as mentioned you'll get very little 'real' benefit from any of these things. You are better off having a cheap & reliable shitter that gets you from A to B with a minimum of fuss. Why mess with economy, reliability, etc for the sake of what would be - at best - ten or fifteen horsepower.

[2JZXL]

Thanks Shifty thats what I was looking for advice from someone with experience. I'll just do full rebuild on the engine I have stay away from exchange motors atleast I know whats done to it then, no freight etc and we can build our own engines save on labour. It is just going to be a daily shitter for work/camping etc and bit of towing to drags once this other cars finished just wanted a little more go for towing but no point spending an extra grand or so for 10hp and less reliability.

Anything i should do when rebuilding the motor to fix any issues they may have from factory I read somewhere timing chains are an issue and you can get metal backed chain guides so the chain doesn't wear through as fast?

I've read they replace rocker arms when rebuilding motors too is that just performance engines?

Whats the issue with heads on these motors cracking any advice to rectify this or isn't it a problem?

Full rebuild, with headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust and 32/36 weber?

cheers guys.

[o_man_ra23]

For more torque, you can't go past the bang for buck of a towing cam. Try Tighe cams in the south east QLD region, or Kelford Cams in the 8th state (NZ). Increasing compression will help torque, if you are going new pistons, I would look at what you can get with an increase of compression.

The problems with the 22R heads seem to stem from overheating. Make sure all your water fittings are good, all water pipes are good, and replace the water pump. Other than that, they should go for a long time. New heads are available for a couple of hundred, but remember these will be bare heads and you will need to fit your valves etc, so budget for possibly new guides and seats etc.

Not sure about the metal backed timing guides, however I do know that the plastic ones do wear through quick as you pointed out, so new chain, sprockets and guides are pretty well a must.

Other than that, the breathing you have previously mentioned will do you well, as would a forward facing snorkel (cold air, and when you get up speed, it is being helped in a bit) or a small bonnet scoop (can't really drown a petrol engine like you can a diesel and expect it to keep running anyway) to just try and help it breathe a bit more. 2.5" may be a little big - make sure you have a good muffler or it will drone like a mofo and just be annoying.

[2JZXL]

Thanks mate, I see crow cams also list a high torque cam i assume there for towing. Just got quoted $625 for a full ACL rebuild kit, pistons, rings, bearings and gasket set plus new head bolts they recommend replacing those too they must stretch so will do this and see what piston options there are for more comp and maybe a cam.

Someone in the states makes a timing chain kit with the metal backing so the chain doesn't wear right through the guides I'll have to find it again.

[o_man_ra23]

ACL kit - sounds about the right price. Only way to get more compression with those pistons would be to go a bigger bore or shave the head some extra (though this affects the chain tensioner stroke). Check what bore the HG is good for.

Bolts - head bolts are what they call 'torque to yeild', basically the bolt becomes elastic, stretches in the middle, and holds tension better. A set of ARP head studs (if available for 22R) would be better, despite being more expensive. This would allow more torque to be applied.

Chain guides - although you don't want the chain wearing through the plastic ones, you will need to make sure the material covering the metal is tough so that the chain doesn't wear through onto the metal and make a hell of a racket/put metal shavings through your sump. A durable polyurethane would be the go. No doubt the American suppliers know this and have incorporated it, however best to check.

[Shifty]

I agree with most of that, but would not bother with an exhaust system really. Just a set of extractors and maybe delete one of your mufflers if there are a number of them. 22Rs sound terrible with a big exhaust.

Timing chain guides will last for ages, the only time they wear out is if the chain is stretched or the tensioner is loose. They really only wear through the engine casing if this happens - the chain or tensioner are old/worn, then the guide is worn all the way through by the sloppy chain, and then it continues to make a nasty sound which you ignore for weeks/months until it wears through to the coolant gallery.

If you're replacing them and they don't cost much more then metal backed ones might be an idea, but you're only masking a problem - which is the worn chain or tensioner.

Note that machining is the expensive part of the rebuild process. I wouldn't expect to get away with less than $1000-$1500 in machining to do it properly, plus parts, plus then assuming you can fit it all yourself.

An off-the-shelf 'exchange' engine is the best option. I assume you're only messing with it because it's broken... if it wasn't broken would you be looking at any of this crap? I don't think you would... so don't waste extra money. Just do what you have to, if something costs a few dollars more then obviously go the better part but if you end up spending another $2k on cam, exhaust, extractors, carb, manifold, etc is it really money well spent?

Standard rebuild, ARP head bolts/studs, that's about it in my opinion. Then just make sure your radiator etc is all in good nick and you change the oil/coolant regularly.

[Shifty]

PS: Sorry to talk sense & reason on the internet.

[2JZXL]

Thanks for the info guys good to be on a forum where people give good/sensible advice for a change unlike some of the ford forums I've been on in the past.

I hope to have engine out over weekend and stripped down to see what condition its in the guy I got it off said the bottom end wasn't very old but its been running with milky oil through it for awhile so will still do bearings, rings at minimum see how pistons are.

Exhaust is stuffed anyway so needs replacing thats why better flowing one is on the cards if the 22R sounds sh+thouse with big systems i'll just go 2 1/4inch with some headers and decent muffler.

Even if engine wasn't stuffed I'd probably do some basic intake and exhaust mods to open it up a bit I can't help myself!!!

[thechuckster]

If you just want a daily shitter then consider getting the gasket kit and slugs off ebay. Cnsautoparts have jap/taiwan made full kits for bugger all (fwiw, i got a full 3SGE gasket kit & rings for $150).

[o_man_ra23]

Shifty, I have had the pleasure of pulling apart an exchange 22RE 4000kms after rebuild before. It was fun watching the ringlands fall out from between the rings on the shiny newish duralites. Cause?? Likely that it was incorrect ring gap causing ring bind when the motor got hot, then she went pear shaped. Moral of the story? If you want it done right, either do it yourself, or pay lots of money to somebody who actually knows what they are doing and take pride in their results (cost me $780 to have my rotating assembly put together in my current 18R-GTE build - money well spent as everything is now blueprinted and assembled by people who build reliable race engines regularly). Second item - intended use is towing (see original post). I would say that warrants trying to get some more torque out of it.

Chuckster, that's a friggin good price. Like you say, for a daily shitter, that's a good way to save a few squid. Even with a touch more compression and a towing cam, it should still be all good with that sort of gear, as we aren't talking about a high revving screamer.