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Thread: C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

  1. #16
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

    Starter is on Engine side but I can grab the PP bolts with my fingertips thru the opening (but not enough to determine if they're torqued up). I reckon I could get in there if I had a reaally long (i.e. 40mm) Offset 14mm ring spanner OR articulated spanner OR "L" shaped ring spanner < can't find such a beast on the Net tho >.

    Having said that, even if I did how would I ensure even torqueing of the bolts. . .and would still have a dry throw out bearing which would probably fry in 10-20,000km.

    Would still like to get a tool onto at least one of those bolts so I can at least confirm they have NOT been torqued up B4 separating box. . .

    Maybe I can get Machine shop to weld one up?

  2. #17
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

    Quote Originally Posted by GeeEss View Post
    I can grab the PP bolts with my fingertips thru the opening (but not enough to determine if they're torqued up).
    ...and would still have a dry throw out bearing which would probably fry in 10-20,000km.
    Can you feel if the PP is at least bolted down flush with the flywheel face, or even if it's within 1-2mm?
    If it is, whether torqued or not, then it's down enough to hold hand pressure pushing on the tire.
    The bearing is factory sealed with grease, it will not fry. The grease on the tube sticking out of the trans is to stop corrosion almost as much as it is to let the bearing slip. A little light smear of grease on the bearing face & PP fingers is nice but not the worst thing you can miss.
    *****************
    I still don't understand.
    Up on stands, in gear, you can turn 1 wheel. WHAT'S Happening with the other wheel??????
    If you say it isn't locked & is turning, ..........
    'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!

  3. #18
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

    Yes I can, and the bolt is flush against the PP and the PP is flush against the Flywheel.

    If what you say is correct, then I shouldn't be able to rotate the tyre at all, let alone as easily as I can. . .

    Re "Up on stands. . ." comment; what happens is that the other wheel also turns - in the opposite direction (LSD diff).

    I'm wondering if it could be something else like a broken input shaft (I bought the box off an 80,000km JDM frontcut; 30 day warranty has long since expired. . .)

    NEWSFLASH ! . . .

    I also have an AE111 BZR with a similar (but 6speed) LSD box <that is functioning perfectly well> and decided - in a blinding ray of inspiration - Doh! - to jack up the front end, put it into gear (5th, then 1st) and see what happened. . . . To my surprise, the damn thing spins its drive wheels even easier than the FX !!! so maybe I've been worrying for nothing all along and LSD boxes just do this (I could have sworn that the drive wheels would not turn on the non-LSD box I previously had in the FX).

    Hopefully this whole episode will turn out to be much ado about nothing. . . . and I can get back to figuring out how I'm gonna make the ITB's work

  4. #19
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

    YES, an open diff will spin easily, a clutch type LSD will have less resistance the more worn or loosely set up, and a locked/welded/spool will not turn at all.
    *****************************************
    Quote Originally Posted by GeeEss View Post
    . . . and I can get back to figuring out how I'm gonna make the ITB's work
    Not a chance in hell if this has been any kind of indication.
    Good luck.
    'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!

  5. #20
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

    Well, you may very well be right (about ITBs) Mr allencr, but none of the other 95 heads viewing this thread picked up on it either (unless some were just watching the proceedings with amusement). . .

    I don't care, they can laugh all they want, as long as I don't have to pull that $#@& box out again I'm laughing too. . .

  6. #21
    Junior Member Carport Converter Dale's Avatar
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    Default Re: C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

    Quote Originally Posted by Dale View Post
    Put gearbox in 5th, pull plugs from engine and turn it over... see if wheels turn, the drive has to go somewhere. Even do it with the starter if it's there, two wires hooked up to a battery is simple enough to get the starter cranking

    If wheels don't turn there is something major wrong with the clutch, could be the wrong clutch and is not actually sitting on the splines of the input shaft at all...
    Did you ever try this? It will answer all the doubt in your mind.

    Even if you had to pull the box out, it's not THAT big of a job... I pulled a box out of an AE101 last week and had the box, clutch and flywheel out ready to take for machining in just over 2 hours. If your car is only partially assembled it's only going to be easier.
    I am the sun

  7. #22
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    Default Re: C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

    Hi Dale,

    I have checked the specs of the Clutch & Flywheel; they are correct.

    For what it's worth, I will take your advice and run a lead from Battery +ve to Starter & crank it and see what happens; BUT as I said my main concern initially was that the wheels weren't turning when I turned the crankshaft, and visa versa the engine wasn't turning when I turned the wheels . . . . but this also happens with my AE111, which is working perfectly, so how do you explain that?

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