C52 / C56 Swap: new clutch won't engage. . .

[GeeEss]

Starting to think I shoulda just got a Blacktop 1/2 cut. . . .

Components:
- Tranny: C56 box + Extreme Clutch Plate+Disk+200mm LW Flywheel.
- Engine: Bigport 4AGE.
- Slave Cylinder: original AE92 unit. . .
* Spark Plugs not tightened; just nipped up with fingers. . .

Job: Torque up the crankshaft Pulley bolt.

Method: "Lock" the engine by putting car in (1st) gear. .

Issue: I cannot torque up the Crank bolt as the engine just turns freely (i.e. independent of tranny) even when the tranny is in gear; i.e. I can turn road-wheels easily by hand (Car is on Stands) so it seems that the clutch disk isn't engaging with the flywheel.

- I have bled the hydraulic lines; flushed & refilled with PBR Dot 5.
- Slave Cylinder actuates release Fork; Selector fork travels to about 90DEG to casing (i.e. moves ~ 45DEG arc / 12-15mm linear) when Slave is fully depressed.
- Pedal does have ~ 5-7mm free travel but I cant see adjusting it solving the problem because pedal has maiximum available travel (i.e. is shortest distance to firewall).

I'm getting migrains at the thought of pulling this sucker out again (to check for ???) and hope to God its something simple-stupid and easily rectifiable.

I am / was. . . just finishing putting the car back together after engine rebuild so no; I don't know if I can get it into gear with the engine running.


Can anybody help. . . please; gonna burn this car - one headache after another. . .

[Dale]

1. Tighten the spark plugs to ensure compression.
2. Pull off the boot where the clutch fork goes into the gearbox, have an assistant press the clutch pedal and watch to see if the fingers of the clutch are moving. If so clutch = working.

To tighten crank pulley bolt:

a] Get someone to press the brakes, put the car in 5th, clutch out, and try to torque the crank bolt then. It is essential someone presses the brakes else the energy will just go through to turn the wheels and the crank will never lock.

b] If it still turns, clutch is probably slipping. Pull the starter out and get an assistant to lock the flywheel teeth with a screwdriver while you torque the bolt.

c] Tighten crank bolt with a rattle gun.

Now, start car with it still on stands and test operation of clutch.

[JP]

make/borrow the SST to hold the crank pulley so you can torque the crank pulley bolt correctly. Nothing worse than a flogged out keyway in the crank after running the engine with the bolt not torqued correctly.

Once you get that done then figure out if you've messed up the clutch install.

[GeeEss]

Thanks both you guys. . . Not in the mood for a Fabrication job right now so I'll take option A (Dale's) and see how I go. . . .

[GeeEss]

Further to that comment. . . If I torque up bolt to specs (i.e. Haynes) I shouldn't have to worry about keyway damage issues should I ?

[JP]

They key is just there to locate the pulley while the bolt is torqued. It's the bolt torque that holds it in place, so make sure you torque it to spec (101 ft-lb)

[GeeEss]

That bits done, and thanks. . so tired I forgot I could just remove the Starter to access the flywheel. .

[GeeEss]

Re; checking for movement of Clutch springs inside Fork opening. . can't see them, I have a Mini-Mag that can fit inside the opening but even with that the only thing I can see is the bearing sliding left > right but I can't confirm if its resting against springs.

I would like to revise my previous statement about the Fork having about 45Deg of travel; actual movement of arm is quite limited, about 10-15mm, then again its a pivot so I guess it doesn't need more.

I loosned the Slave Cylinder so the Fork / lever was at maximum release. . but wheels still turn freely in gear with hardly any resistance.

I know some have the opinion that I should start it up but that involves a fair bit more work (I still haven't installed Power Steering & inlet manifold) that has to be undone again if box is coming out; and I can't see how starting the Engine will have any bearing on the situation. Having said that I'm more than willing to be proved wrong.

PS: I don't know if this would have any bearing on the Clutch operation but the car : Car has been sitting on Stands for 6+ months with Brakes disconnected / unions taped over. . .

[JP]

pull it all out and check it, takes stuff all time if you've not hooked up the PS/AC etc.

What was done to the clutch before it was assembled? Was the flywheel machined correctly?

[Dale]

Put gearbox in 5th, pull plugs from engine and turn it over... see if wheels turn, the drive has to go somewhere. Even do it with the starter if it's there, two wires hooked up to a battery is simple enough to get the starter cranking

If wheels don't turn there is something major wrong with the clutch, could be the wrong clutch and is not actually sitting on the splines of the input shaft at all...

[GeeEss]

Brand new Heavy Duty 200mm (l/weight) Flywheel + Clutch Kit < Extreme brand >. . . . . .

[GeeEss]

Got this < tightening Crank-2-pulley bolt > done but not with a screw driver; you can only get it in at an angle and it slips off the teeth - I used a 20cm length of Aluminium 50x50 "L" shaped bar instead; as teeth turn one side wedges against the upper edge of the opening - much easier. . .

[GeeEss]

OK thanks; I'll try this tomorrow. Reading your comment I went back and cross-referenced my original Parts Order against their <Extreme's> website and the items check out (i.e. are correct specs for Bigport 4AGE)

1. 200mm Flywheel: FTY009CL

2. 200mm Clutch Plate/Disk: KTY2001HD

Another thing; I wasn't 100% accurate when I said wheels spin freely when gear is engaged; you CAN spin them by hand but there is definitely more resistance than when car is in Neutral.

What this means I don't know. . . Should I bleed the System again? Could it be the Clutch Master Cylinder adjustment??

Dumb question time again; if the friction between the Clutch disk and flywheel is low enough to allow movement & positioning of the disk with Dowell prior to inserting the gearbox; when & how does the < friction / pressure > btw the Clutch Disk and Flywheel increase so that it becomes enough to transmit drive to the gearbox when turning the engine?

[GeeEss]

Been thinking about the implications of my last Post. . .

Apart from the fact that I now realise I forgot to grease the inner races & face of the release Bearing; I can't say with 100% certainty that I remembered to torque up the Pressure Plate after centre-ing the Clutch disk and nipping up the bolts. Could - I - be - that - stupid??? Yes - I - could. . .

Mmmmaybe I oughta wait till next W/E and take the damn thing out again. .

[Dale]

Judging by your 2nd last post... failure to torque the pressure plate to the flywheel would explain everything

Don't grease the face of the bearing... that grease will end up on your clutch plate. Just grease the inner race where it slides on the shaft.

Does the starter on this gearbox go on the engine side or the gearbox side? If it's on the gearbox side you could manipulate a spanner to tighten the PP bolts through the starter hole. Otherwise, looks like that box is coming back off!