Installing ARP head studs (7MGTE)

[doobs]

when i back them off, during the installation process, how far should i back it off? It wasnt to specific in the arp guide

[TheStitt]

I have never heard of re torqueing the head straight away, only after 1000km.

When I installed my h/g with the arp bolts. I just re tapped the block, spun the studs in hand tight. Dropped the h/g on and then the head. Tourqued up as per toyota's patteren at like 30 60 and then bout 85 foot pounds.

I would also invest in a 14mm deep 3/8th drive socket. I also had to grind mine down a little so it would fit down and around the inlet cam at no2 cylinder.

The thing i want to ask is, my head is coming off again soon i have a suspect bhg after the thermostat locked shut and the wagon got hot. Now do I pull the studs right out and re lube em and dropped the head back on or do I just leave the studs in and not touch em.

[ed]

when i back them off, during the installation process, how far should i back it off? It wasnt to specific in the arp guide

untill you feel the stud lose tension, say 1/2 to 3/4 turn, but not back down to zero tension. youre basically giving the material a squeeze, stabilising its stress/strain response

[jeffro ra28]

The "chase" tap you guys speak of. Are you all using a proper dedicated "chase" tap or just a regular bottom tap? You know there is actually a proper tap dedicated for chasing threads?

This is how i was tought to re-tention cylinder heads.

Some hours after the head has been torqued correctly, loosen each nut of one at a time till there is ZERO tention on the nut, then retorque. But i suppouse there are bazzillions of methods!
If you count the stages and number of turns as you loosen most of the time when it is re-torqued the nut will spin an extra 1/4-1/2 a turn from when it was torqued first time.

My mentor has been using this method for years with NO problems at all.

I make a special habbit of applying lube to both sides of the washer, the bolt thread and the nut thread!

[Mr DOHC]

I have never heard of re torqueing the head straight away, only after 1000km.

When I installed my h/g with the arp bolts. I just re tapped the block, spun the studs in hand tight. Dropped the h/g on and then the head. Tourqued up as per toyota's patteren at like 30 60 and then bout 85 foot pounds.

I would also invest in a 14mm deep 3/8th drive socket. I also had to grind mine down a little so it would fit down and around the inlet cam at no2 cylinder.

The thing i want to ask is, my head is coming off again soon i have a suspect bhg after the thermostat locked shut and the wagon got hot. Now do I pull the studs right out and re lube em and dropped the head back on or do I just leave the studs in and not touch em.

leave them in

[doobs]

well once agian I have gone to fast and potentially fucked up....

I thought I had everything covered, chased the threads, greesed and put the studs in, grabbed one of the nuts, grabbed the 14mm tube socket, dosnt fit, look inside, single hex....

Cant find a double hex tube socket anywhere, will have to get one tommorow... Problem is I had just spreyed the gasket with holimer... i waited for it to dry, and put the gasket back into its packet, trying my best to keep it clean as possible... what do you rekon, is it fucked? or will another coat of holimer make it all nice again...

as lame as it sounds, I should listen to my teacher some times, 7 Ps...

"proper prior preperation prevents piss poor products".....

[ed]

metal head gasket?

hit it with thinners, take the hylomar off, let it dry completely, leave it for 24 hours, plan your install, start again..

[BigWorm]

Nah, don't worry about it mate, you're supposed to let it dry anyway ("let the solvents evaporate" according to the can), and with the amount of heat it's exposed to it's not gonna "go off" or set with just some 10-20 degree or so air temp (depending on where you live & how cold it is).
Keep it wrapped up & clean until you get the socket you need & then chuck it all together, with a bit of good old Australian "she'll be right!".

[BigWorm]

Or you could listen to Ed....

How much Hylomar have you got left? I seemed to use most of the can first time I did it, I wouldn't buy another one if I was in your position.

[TheStitt]

I can't understand the use of hylomar. Ever gasket I have put down has been dry

[whatthe?]

I can't understand the use of hylomar. Ever gasket I have put down has been dry

And counting the falcon thats 3 BHG in 6 months now isnt it? Hrmm

Actually, the toyota spares dudes told me not to use it with their graphite gaskets, so I dont know.

[30psi 4agte]

I can't understand the use of hylomar. Ever gasket I have put down has been dry

On a steel gasket hylomar will provide a soft platform for a better seal esp around the water gallerys !


Doobs If you managed to keep the gasket clean i wouldnt bother cleaning the hylomar off. You may end uo making more off a mess with lint and parts of the rag getting between the gasket layers.
Bg worm is right you are supposed to let the stuff set and become taky.

What i would do is prep everything then give the gasket a light coat and wait till it sets then wack it on.

[doobs]

Thanx fellas, +1 rep for all.

I have a lot left, I only applyed a thin coat, its a composite gasket. I guess ill just have to leave it, thinners and a composite gasket probly wont go well.

Well Im off to bed... tackle it tomorrow

Cheers

[whatthe?]

He's using a composite gasket though guys (as per his first post), so trying to clean it off probably isnt a great idea as those things are soft as buggery. I say just whack it in and torque everything down properly as per ARP instructions and she'll be right. You had your head machined first right?

[doobs]

yeah heads machined, blocks pretty nice