4x4 LSD's, are they true LSD's

[o_man_ra23]

Start with google, bing, yahoo etc (try a few search providers as they come up with different websites) and find out what you can first. Then put those ideas into a thread. Always good to keep an open mind to different ideas and judge them on their merits. Of course a full IRS rear would be better (ie Supra or Skyline rear), however this would be a lot harder to implement than the de-dion due to the probability of cocking up the geometry.

[PRIMRK]

yeh then again, ive just had a chat to a friend with an SR86 thats keeping up with some of the bigger power cars while drifting, he was saying that because of the 0 deg camber this is how he is able to gain speed while in a drift and stay competitive. Also due to the larger engine and trans up the front the balance will work out slightly by having a bit more weight in the rear (have been told a g is about 40kg more than the s series.)

[o_man_ra23]

Umm... AE86 had a T series, not S series...

Total mass is one thing, unsprung mass is another. Unsprung mass is less controllable and more likely to put your car out of control than sprung mass as the suspension cannot prevent small bumps in the track (balls of rubber anyone??) from moving the unsprung mass in an unpredictable manner.

Simple version of that is unsprung mass = avoid as much as possible

[PRIMRK]

didnt the ADM have s series and JDM have t series?

[o_man_ra23]

ADM had the 21 spline non-LSD T series. JDM early was the same, though with an LSD available for GT variants. See Zenki.
JDM late had the stronger 24 spline T series, again with LSD option for GT variants. See Kouki.

[Shakotan_Aaron]

ADM had the 21 spline non-LSD T series. JDM early was the same, though with an LSD available for GT variants. See Zenki.
JDM late had the stronger 24 spline T series, again with LSD option for GT variants. See Kouki.

dude, no they didnt.

australian delivered ae86 all had drum brake non lsd s-series.

not sure where you going this info from? there are only 2 versions of splining of t-series axle, zenki and kouki

ae85 i believe had s-series but all JDM ae86 ive ever seen or heard of have t-series, although occasionally early had drums instead of disk.



i dont think a heavy diff will really effect the weight balancing because its unsprung weight. you want as least unsprung weight as possible, thats why they make alloy wheels instead of only steel wheels, steel wheels are cheaper and generally stronger. to make the car handle i guess you have to look at other ways to achive this. stuff like battery location, perhaps even trying to lighten the front end by FRP panels may help. the biggest thing you can do though it to set the suspension up well. the correct spring weights, alignment, front and rear track widths. you will have to play around to get the best out of it.

back to the rear end. if you where keen enough of a fabricator and had the time/budget then IRS maybe the way to go. While i havent looked into it myself, i cant see why a equal length set-up couldnt be used? so upper and lower arms where the same length. i guess this would cause minor track changes instead of camber changes. I think they would be minimal, but with this you could keep the weight sprung. maybe worth looking into.

just my 2c

[TTV8RA23]

My 2c is you would be mad to go anything weaker than G series with that sort of motor and torque your likely to see from FI 3uz. They are a good diff with large (about 32mm) strong axles and good solid crown wheel and pinions. Come in all sorts of lengths and a huge amount of diff ratios from 3.4:1 to 5.2:1. Factory LSDs in these are shite a mate of mine runs one behind a mild 3SGTE he shimmed the hell out of it making it as tight as he dared and a one power cruise and a few thrashes at the local on street skid pan and its already starting to single spin. There are a huge amount of after market lockers available for these diffs also. The one im running in my RA23 is what they call a lockrite. Basically a mechanical LSD that will unlock the outside wheel and let it ratchet faster than the crown wheel but then as soon as you put your foot down and the crown wheel catches up to said outside wheel it locks up and your away. They are a bit clunky but easy enough to live with you do get used to them best of all they are relatively cheap.
Cheers
Simon

[PRIMRK]

got a link/part number for it?

[beerhead]

Yep, G 8" series or BW78 7.8" R31 skyline (correct stud pattern and disc brakes) either of which should probably receive billet axles with a boosted V8. That said you're in a much lighter chassis than my mate using a BW78's with billets.

Plenty of 9 sec cars run a BW78 with billet axles and a mini spool, plus because they came with V8's they are available in much taller ratios to make use of abundant torque. You can get billet axles quite cheap from Paramount performance in Toowoombah for either of these diffs for $800 a pair last time I checked.

Kaaz offer a BW78 mech LSD center. The commodore or falcon centers run a cone type, but last a while and are really cheap to kit up.

[oldcorollas]

http://www.4wdworld.com.au/Detroit-Locker.html

http://www.abt4x4.com/E4131::28132etroit-Locker-Hilux

interesting read (court case about different detroit type diffs in aus) http://judgments.fedcourt.gov.au/200...50.yes.doc.htm