Megasquirt users thread to discuss all things Squirty

[MWP]

Some of my Megasquirt3 progress...

Im re-housing the MS3+MS3X so i can put all the extra features im after in the same box, and also have some nice connectors.



I have still yet to fit the TinyIOx, ADXL337 board, bluetooth board and possibly a GPS board.
Can a MS3 get any more feature rich?

[dnegative]

To wire it up as Wasted Spark, if your using the 1ZZFE COPs, you just need to wire the IGt pin on the first pair of cylinders to IGN1 and the second pair to IGN2.
There are like 4 output pads on each of IGN1 / IGN2.

Now, this assumes that the MSPNP is just a DIYPNP with all the stuff needed for that specific car pre-wired for the buyer. Can you get a photo of the internals of the MSPNP to confirm my assumptions

Gottcha, cant piss off the ignitor as its a critical part and provides a nice filtered signal that makes everything work;
By my logic, if I chop the IGt wire telling the ignitor to fire the coil, piss it off and power the coils directly I'm sweet but what role does the IGf feedback play? Does it fuck with the NE squarewave at all if it doesn't get an 'ok' from the coil firing?

I understand how to get a smallport dizzy working, found a sweet page with a massive table explaining all the trigger options, how they work and what they support.


Oh yeah, I defiantly owe you a six pack next time we meet

[dnegative]

[knightrous]

The VAST ignitor doesn't provide any cam/home reference for the MS (It relies on the dizzy rotor to mechanically send the spark to the right cylinder), so you wouldn't be able to make it work. Also, removing the single coil from the ignitor will cause your tacho to stop working, you will need to make a tacho-booster (The Whitzl has a guide on here) and use the MS Tachout function with it.
Turf the ignitor and wire the two dizzy picks up to the MS, the filters on the MSPNP/DIYPNP work out of the box (You just need a install a 51K resistor in R21 to work with the Toyota Dizzy) and while your at it, go straight to the small port dizzy

[knightrous]

Wow, just saw your photos...... MSPNP != DIYPNP . This explains why they are $600+ each.
Looks like most of my information is useless to you. I think you will need to hit up Matt / Jerry / Russ @ DIYAutoTune for some tips on modifying the MSPNP.

[dnegative]

Wow, just saw your photos...... MSPNP != DIYPNP . This explains why they are $600+ each.
Looks like most of my information is useless to you. I think you will need to hit up Matt / Jerry / Russ @ DIYAutoTune for some tips on modifying the MSPNP.

I'll see what they say;
Its a pretty custom built unit, worse comes to worst, buy a MS2 kit and just wire it in.

I'vo also got a 4AGZE CAS which would be a better option than a dizzy?

[knightrous]

I know it's more cash, but go the DIYPNP. It's got all the good shit on board (knock sensor, dual VR inputs, boost controller, 4x coil outputs etc etc) and is pretty easy to get up and running compared to an MS2+3.47PCB which needs extra things.
Or if you want to go nuts, buy a MS3PRO

[dnegative]

See what the chaps reckon, I think its possible to get it running on my hardware though.
I do have a cam sensor input now that I think about it

MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

[knightrous]

Yeah, looking at that page, you should be able to get it running. Where they show their fancy QuadSpark box, you'd just wire up the 1ZZFE COPs to those triggers on the DB15.
Another cool thing is, you can plug some head phones in and listen to a knock sensor.

[dnegative]

Yeah its possible according to the boffins who made it, it is hardwired for VAST but it can be rectified if needed. The reply was a bit vague however

You can use the stock VAST distributor if you set it to Toothed Wheel mode, 4 teeth spinning at cam speed, 1 second trigger at cam speed. Do not remove the VAST module unless you want to open up the MSPNP and rewire it. The MSPNP for the AW11 is hardwired for the signal from the VAST - which DOES have a second trigger for cylinder activation - so switching to the 4AGZE CAS will require opening up the unit and adding a few jumper wires.

If you want to use the CAS and want a write up, I can put one together.

Still not really sure how its wired so still at step 1 aka not sure
Learning something new every day which is good however

[dnegative]

Wasted a few hours today;

So the 4AGE VAST system feeds a hall effect crank position (4 tooth) signal into the ECU along with a cam position (1 tooth aka TDC) signal.
By right, if it has these two, it will run sequential spark (probably poorly) and wasted spark without issue. Without the single cam position tooth, you need a mechanical system to send the right spark to the right cylinder. The cam position is not there for spark, its for the batch injection. Cant wire up a different dizzy easily as its wired for a hall effect signal.

[knightrous]

Not quite.
The VAST igniter filters the VR sensor signal from the 4 tooth NE (crank) wheel and turns it into a nice 12V square wave signal that looks just like a hall sensor (to the MS). It doesn't handle the second trigger and only sends one signal.


However, you will notice in the pin out diagrams that the 1 tooth G (cam) wheel wires (G- & G+) directly to the stock ECU.


You should be able to leave the VAST igniter the way it it (except disconnect IGT and the coil) and then wire the G+/G- dizzy wires up to the second VR sensor input on the MSPNP. Then wire up the 4x 1ZZFE coil packs to the trigger pins on the DB15 connector in their correct firing order. You will then setup the ECU to run Dual Wheel, set the Trigger Wheel Teeth to 4. You will need to calculate #1 tooth angle (this is the first tooth on the NE 4 tooth wheel to trigger AFTER the G 1 tooth wheel has triggered TDC (which isn't always @ TDC, BTW). For my example using my 20V, the #1 Tooth angle is 20 degrees.

[dnegative]

Yeap, that was my line of thinking;
Got a few emails from DIYautotune and so far they have been great with explaining and assisting where possible, customer service is great so Its good to see they have people willing the support and back their product.

[knightrous]

Yeah, their support is awesome. Russ is good to talk to since he has a 4AGE AE86, so he's familiar with setting up megasquirts on them with first hand experience

[dnegative]

Yeap, that's who I've been trading emails with
Sent me a massive one today which was awesome, said if I don't understand anything email back and he will do his best to idiot speak it.
Rewiring the board to run a dizzy directly may be problematic, suggested moving to a new unit which is fair enough and understandable.
Just waiting to see what he things in regard to running COP's wasted spark, the G signal from the dizzy is wired in so that's a start. If I can get them going it will hold me over for quite a while, wont be going further till I build a new motor...... which is a while away as I want to drive the fucking thing first


I cant fault their product or their customer service, its a rarity these days that you get a reply let alone a useful one.