2GRFE Conversion - any inputs?

[fibrewizard]

i am currently investigating a 2gr-fe conversion into my widebody GT4

atm seems pretty straightforward only issue is clearance for the transfer case

[terryo]

the transfer case on the manual does not clear the 2GR block and simple grinding wont fix it. the only thing that fits is the tfr case off a RAV auto

[fibrewizard]

might as well change the final drive over as well for better rev at cruising,

[toyo-al]

This would go well with a 2GR heart:

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/toy...ke70-sale.html

[ToySprinta]

After dicking around with these engines, 1GR would be the way to go for RWD transplant

[the_random_hero]

VERY slowly progressing through a 2GR + AW11 swap. Budget has blown way out of proportion as I'm back to a completely bare chassis and rebuilding piece by piece...

[.T.]

fyi i'm piecing together an is200 conversion - have basically everything now bar the actual car (will buy another is200, not going to convert my altezza) & this thing called "time" which i seem to be very short of.....

I'll be running factory efi in this setup as well - which will introduce a number of problems, but solve the emissions problem when it comes to engineering

T

[JKLMATE]

Bump.

Guys, are there differences in the blocks between 1GR-FE/2GR-FE, in terms of how/what gearbox will attach??
There was previous talk of where the starter mounts... and grinding required... ?
...Is this issue the same for both blocks or just 2GR?

I'm looking into 2GR-FE as a RWD swap, 1GR-FE out of the question if it's eventually seeing any boost.

After dicking around with these engines, 1GR would be the way to go for RWD transplant

Why is that??

[ToySprinta]

Yeah, the blocks do have different bellhousing patterns.
But you should be able to find a bellhousing to suit the combo.

Starter motor is only an issue for the FWD blocks as they were mounted in the bellhousing. I wasn't game to start grinding away at an alloy block.

1GR would be better for boost as they have a slightly lower compression ratio than the 2GR.

I would go a 1GR if I ever did it again because it's already in RWD configuration. I had a few problems with oil starvation as the 2GR normally leans over a fair bit, so the sump, pickup and drains aren't ideal when they are mounted upright.
2Gr also doesn't have any accommodation for a passenger side engine mount. I had to make something off the AC compressor mount.
Just little things like that.

["Z" UTE]

There is a Lancia Stratos replica here in Canberra running an Aurion 2GR with an SXE10 Altezza 6 speed gearbox mounted up . Apparently only one bolt needed to be discarded as there was only one set of holes that did not line up.

[.T.]

stratos would use a fwd setup (transverse) - so it would not use a rwd j160. would use a sw20 gt 5 speed box

I bolted up my altezza bellhousing to my 2gr & would have worked - bar the starter motor needing to be reverse mounted (I had a sw20 starter & section of sw20 s series gearbox to graft to the altezza bellhousing)

Then I gave up the project & sold the motor & box.

if you are interested I still have the starter & have an almost new 2gr motor setup (3,200k's)

[JKLMATE]

1GR would be better for boost as they have a slightly lower compression ratio than the 2GR.
I would go a 1GR if I ever did it again because it's already in RWD configuration. I had a few problems with oil starvation as the 2GR normally leans over a fair bit, so the sump, pickup and drains aren't ideal when they are mounted upright.

Ahh, sorry, I should have mentioned the only reason I cannot consider the 1GR is was because of the 4.0L engine capacity.. 3.5L is the absolute upper cusp for my build according to NSW engineering guidelines (with boost).

Yeah, the blocks do have different bellhousing patterns.
But you should be able to find a bellhousing to suit the combo.
Starter motor is only an issue for the FWD blocks as they were mounted in the bellhousing. I wasn't game to start grinding away at an alloy block.
2Gr also doesn't have any accommodation for a passenger side engine mount. I had to make something off the AC compressor mount.
Just little things like that.

The 2GR with 3.5L was looking perfect for a 'straight-and-narrow' build to pass NSW engineering.

Unfortunately I hadn't thought the 1GR/2GR blocks themselves would differ so much, because I've read 1GR is also available as transverse mount.
Which given what you've said, adds further complications... *sigh*

[MWP]

from most accounts the RAV4 center diff isn't active, they understeer like all crap, the factory 2GR rav's are known for under steer too.

For what its worth...

xA33 and onwards do have an active center diff.
The rear diff has an electric clutch pack built on the front which engages/disengages the rear wheels.

Its in the top left of this diagram: