20V 4AGE with adaptronic won't start

[A_F]

Hey guys

I have a blacktop 4AGE 20V running on a adaptronic that just stoped working the other day. Car will just crank but not start. We connected to the ECU yesterday and that seems fine, through the program we tested that the injectors fire and there is spark. So with spark and fuel the car should run unless the timing is way out? Mechanically the timing is correct so I suspect the CAS is faulty or the wiring to the CAS. Is there a way to test the CAS without taking it out? As the motor is in a AE86 its a pain to remove.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

I suspect CAS also, as it sounds like it. You should be able to turn to ignition on and rotate the CAS by hand with it out. Should get injectors firing and spark. Short of using an oscilloscope to check the CAS, thats what I would do!

Hope that helped!

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

Just read the part about the CAS being a pain to remove. You could turn the ignition to the on position and rotate the crank with a socket on the pulley, thus turning the CAS by hand. Obviously don't let anyone turn the key to start position whilst you are doing this though

[A_F]

Will try spinning the motor today, wasn't sure if you could get enough speed for it to get a signal? Might just have to pull it out anyway. Thanks for the advice though

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

You should be able to. do you have a noid light you can plug into an injector plug? it is a light that illuminates when an injector pulse is present. Or just simply take a spark plug out and see if it sparks whilst rotating.

[Stain]

Funny... I have the EXACT same problem and I find a post about it today... hah.

Freshly built blacktop, adaptronic, custom loom, running coil-over-plug...
I have fuel pressure, I have removed the spark plugs and have fuel in the chamber, I have pulled the coil off and done the screwdriver test while cranking and have spark...

Yet the car doesn't start!

[A_F]

Sorted my problem out, turns out it was faulty wiring in the CAS circuit. The white wire at the CAS pulled out of the plug and one of the joins I did on the ECU for the CAS was a bit dodgy... This was still weird as I seemed to have both fuel and spark.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

you only had fuel and spark when you did the test function didnt you? it simulated the CAS signals and fires the spark and injection outputs, it doesnt use the CAS at all for that.

[Stain]

I just checked my CAS wiring. All make a solid connection from CAS plug to ECU plug (tested with multimeter)

They seem to be in the right order too...

CAS plug => ECU plug
pin 1 (NE) Black => B11
pin 2 (G1) Red => B3
pin 3 (G2) Green => B10
pin 4 (G-) White => B4

So that's not my problem...

[A_F]

you only had fuel and spark when you did the test function didnt you? it simulated the CAS signals and fires the spark and injection outputs, it doesnt use the CAS at all for that.

No I actually pulled the spark plugs out and made sure they were sparking while cranking. Didn't have a noid light to test injectors though.

Stain not sure on yours, if you have fuel and spark you would think timing maybe and you wouldn't think compression would be an issue with a rebuilt motor.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

No I actually pulled the spark plugs out and made sure they were sparking while cranking. Didn't have a noid light to test injectors though.

Possibly the Adaptronic uses one of the CAS signals for ignition timing/firing and the other for injection timing (there are two signals coming out of the CAS). Could explain why you had spark but no injection due to your damage/pulled out wire from plug?

Just a thought?

[Drifty Midship]

For future reference.
You can check the CAS signals from within the WARI software
On the ECU data window (F11 key) the triggers should flash in a believable sort of a pattern while cranking.
NE will be trigger 1 and should flash consitently
G1 and G2 will be triggers 2 and 3 and should alternate flashing.