Canbus converter for ECU install??????

[AndyTTR]

Thanks Timbo.

I can't just send the stock ecu off to get reprogrammed as it cannot be correctly tuned without the rest of the package, and removeal means a rewire anyway.

Not tuned, but perhaps they could tell you how to do it yourself. Perhaps the tool and software to reflash the stock ECU are commercially available considering the popularity of Jeeps in the USA?

Alternatively, maybe they know how to reprogram the stock ECU to allow your Adaptronic to run as a piggy-back without registering faults?

[beerhead]

I don't see why there'd be a problem cutting the factory ecu's injector and igniter outputs and splicing the ecu in there to run the fuel air mix. I've seen piggy backs where the facotry ecu still has CAS triggers and the factory igniter is hidden away but still retained to stop fault codes too.

[TERRA Operative]

That's not the problem, the problem is having to add in all the extra sensors for the Adaptronic. There isn't room for things like an additional crank sensor etc.

The rewire is still looking like the best shot. I've already got a dash loom, cluster, engine loom and ECU from a non canbus Jeep, just need the rest of the bits to make a complete set.

[AndyTTR]

I don't understand... why will you need to add new sensors for the Adaptronic?

As previously stated, you should be able to tap into the signal at whatever module the existing sensors connect to?

The sensors don't connect directly to the CAN... well, not yet anyway.

[TERRA Operative]

If I disconnect the stock sensors from the stock ECU (crank sensor, temp sensors etc) to hook them up to the Adaptronic, the stock ECU won't be able to tell the gauge cluster what to display, or give the transmission computer the info it needs to know when to shift (RPM, engine speed etc) etc etc.. (etc etc)

To get the sensors hooked up to the Adaptronic, I can't just double up the ECU's on the sensors, so I have to either add new sensors or remove the stock ECU totally and convert the car to pre-canbus.

The problem with adding sensors it I don't have room without a lot of modification. The crank sensor for example, is mounted on the rear of the engine and senses the flexplate. To add another sensor in, I will have to enlarge the hole in the bell housing and enlarge the thingo on the flexplate the sensor reads to reach the new sensor, assuming it will all fit to start with. That alone means pulling the engine and transmission/transfer case out......

Being a real 4WD that sees real 4WD duties, I can't afford to be installing anything less than fully submersible gear (the Adaptronic is going inside the cabin) so I'm trying to avoid adding any extra wiring to the stock harness if I can avoid it.

[wilbo666]

To get the sensors hooked up to the Adaptronic, I can't just double up the ECU's on the sensors

Why can't you?

You might need to remove the pull up resistors inside the adap for the temp sensor inputs, but other than that what other sensors are the issue?

Cheers
Wilbo

[TERRA Operative]

Having worked in building automation and control systems, you could never double up due to the two controllers interfering with each other. Opening and modifying the Adaptronic isn't really an option, I don't want to risk killing an ECU that's not mine.....

[AndyTTR]

The controllers wouldn't be interfering with each other, you're just sharing the input signals.

As previous, would it be possible to piggy-back the Adaptronic with the stock ECU - disconnecting injector and ignition outputs from the stock ECU of course.

If the stock ECU reports faults, it might be possible to edit it's programming to stop it from doing so.

This is all just based on assumptions and what I've done in the past... I don't have any experience with Jeeps personally.

[TERRA Operative]

Yea, disconnecting the outputs from the stock ECU and hooking to the Adaptronic is cool.

I would have thought that measuring resistive sensors (ie temp sensors) that require a voltage to be applied by the controller would cause problems when two voltage sources are applied (ie two controllers). That was always the case with the building management and industrial controllers we used anyway.

[wilbo666]

Opening and modifying the Adaptronic isn't really an option, I don't want to risk killing an ECU that's not mine.....

What about the idea of talking to adaptronic in regards to either modifying the ecu you have, or when you buy one getting it modified to remove the pull resistors on the temp inputs, if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself?

That way you won't have the two controllers fighting each other...

Cheers
Wilbo

[TERRA Operative]

Might do that. They have always been really good with support.

[beerhead]

If the factory CAS sensor is a hall effect, doubling it up won't make any dramas at all, digital inputs need SFA to trigger. Reluctors on the other hand have to be amplified in the ecu and supply small current to do so, but I have seen that work in the past too.

I'd go fishing around for a gauge cluster sender too. Most efi cars have a EFI temp and a gauge temp sender, So hopefully tricking the ecu temp input with a resister won't be an issue, same with air temp.

99% of late model european cars with an aftermarket ecu have these kind of hacks going on. You won't need to mod the ecu either. Best off puting these question on the adaptronic forum as you seem completely unreceptive that it will "work"

[TERRA Operative]

I just don't want to risk blowing anything that's not mine up....
I believe the cas is hall effect, so that should be ok, but it's those analogue inputs I'm worried about.
There is only one water temp sensor etc, as the ecu uses it for running the engine and the gauge cluster. The pre canbus has the two sensors.

[beerhead]

The inputs that you're worried about only fry the ecu if you feed them 12V +, if they're getting a resistance to ground, all you'll do is make the ecu read the wrong temp. Maybe it could be worth getting on of those inline hose based coolant sensor holders to double up the coolant sensors. The other trick you could try is finding a coolant sensor with a higher resistance range. Wire them in parallel and calibrate the ecu to read true. Then get the car tuned and you need to get used to the new "happy point" where the gauge now sits..

I may seem like a goose some times, but I did complete up to 2nd year electrical engineering, plus was building tricky dicky kits from the age of 6. I had destroyed more electronics at the age of 10 than most 30 years old's so I have some understanding of what not to do If the electrical engineers I knew weren't all software developers I probably would have went back, but I've clicked a mouse for a living for long enough.

[JP]

you need to contact this guy:
https://sites.google.com/site/canopenerdevice/

He was posting info in his thread at the vipec forums: http://www.vi-pec.com/forum/viewtopi...t=385&start=30