what i did was use a oil pump take the guts out and use the std pan and bring new oil in where the heat exchanger is.as on early model 3s this is where the oil filter was
ps if using vvti keep the factory tensioner set up
seen i few dry sump conversions on net for 3sge beams (bilzilla fraser 7, aarons 7 build)
they have removed factory tensioner, oil pump and idler. im wanting to do the same but cant find right length belt. if anyone knows wat belt to use (calling bilzilla) thatd be greatly appreciated
what i did was use a oil pump take the guts out and use the std pan and bring new oil in where the heat exchanger is.as on early model 3s this is where the oil filter was
ps if using vvti keep the factory tensioner set up
i was thinking of doing similar but it will still need oil presure in oil pump to keep it lubricated as its only bush bearing...? was going to tap into front of oil pump but then i still have to use the top half of sump with pressure release and all. not a bad thing just tryna keep it as simple as possible
i have a pump here that has been modified ,that has a bolt through it and a bearing sits where the pulley use to mount from
also what car is it going in
We had to dig around for quite a while to find a belt that was close, but it's still not right as it's more narrow than what I'd like.It's some kind of industrial belt.
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
oh i gotcha, will look into doing that. thanks. to go on ae86 so keeping the top half of sump isnt a major issue. was emailing you other day bout engine mods. mite even keep it wet sump for now havnt had any issues yet but dnt realy want to risk destroying an expensive motor
my 45 celica is still wet sump ,i did use a dry sump set up ,but it ended up being another 30 kilos in weight with ,pump. tank extra oil, oil cooler and all of the dry sump lines
i also use the std pan and sump but i modify the pan and oil pick up
havnt had any oiling issues? iv already had to shorten pan due to ground clearance, well it shortend itself a couple times haha they seem to have a pretty good setup factory
.found a belt that is almost ideal but slightly different belt profile. top profile is the one i found bottom profile is 3s one. very similar jus slightly differnt shapes not sure if i want to risk using it or not...
i mamnaged to get my beams in my 86 with only about 8mm of sump below the crossmember. ahouldnt a decent bash plate serv? or are you running way below that? or spaced the cross member?
at the moment the sump sits flush with x member but i still mange to smash it hitting ripple strips etc. not to mention there are alot more benifits from dry sump other then clearence. sure a bash plate would help tho
touchetencharactersisgay
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
after many hours of searching have found one that will work. honda h22a cambelt still not ideal but will work. right tooth profile and width just a little long. belt gets very close to water pump but with custom tensioner itl do the job
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
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