wow sounds great! looking forward to seeing pics!
well its happened...
I have the EA falcon pulley mod working.. or in my case the ED falcon pulley.
good news....
it goes like the clappers.
boost comes on much quicker - it will often be on boost before the computer thinks to enguage the clutch
mucho cheap... grande
bad news...
I think martins old SC is shagged. the bearings in it are making a fair bit of noise. even when not under boost.
ive got to pull it all apart again as i need to inspect/change the bearing in the pulley.
so whats been done.
ED falcon pulley. press out bearing and replace with a bearing that has a 30mm ID. this is currently an issue as i ahve only been able to source a bearing with a 300ID that is unsealed. so im going to remove and inspect to chekc it hasnt dumped andn the grease and alrenativly replace it with sealed bearnig and a sleeve
the face of the pulley was then machined back on the lathe so it was a little thinner allowing the pulley to mount furhter outboard.
The original toyota clutch was then mounted to the pulley with two small tack welds.
I have secured the whole assemby to the charger by use of the big round nut with 4 cut outs in it. This has to be put in place befre you weld the clutch. It can however be tightened or removed by use of a rod put though the rubber insulation in the pulley face and slipped into one of the notches.
If you now mount the charger in place the belts dont line up. visually they are close but no cigar. I removed the pulley and placed a washer between the pulley and the SC casing. this spaced it out around 1mm. This visually looks ok however will casue the 3pk belt to jump. A second washer fixes this up a treat.
You will need to use a 3pk0875 belt this will line up onto the outer 3 ribs of the SC pulley and the inner 3 on both the water pump and the crank pulley.
This system is producing around 10psi at low revs. 12 at higher revs. This is with the standard "ABV Mod"
Charge temperature wise it dosent seem any hotter then normal. after taking it for a quick fang aroud the block i could still touch the SC outlet snout.. altough it was hot it wasnt too hot.
Keeping in mind this i using a 135mm (4age) crank pulley and and in turn spins the charger at virutally the same rate as a 175 nevo crank pulley. It does however have a more agressive take up.
give me a week or so and ill change the charger to the non-shagged bearing one and see how she goes.. also i think ill change to a sealed bearing just in case. the unsealed was really a stop gap beacsue no one makes a beaing in a suitable size.
assuming everyhting works happily this works out to a very cheap alternative to a nevo.
cost:
pulley - free although cost from a wrecker would be half of stuff all.
bearing - $20
washers - negligable
belt - $20
machining on pulley - $20
I will sort out the sealed bearing and sleeve asap.. at the same time i plan to try and investiage what options i can rig up so that a 4rib belt can be used instead of the 3 rib.
Ill get some photos of it all once i pull it down to put the better bearing in there.
thanks to bayka from the old forums (not sure of new name) who had previously done a fair bit of this leg work too.
wow sounds great! looking forward to seeing pics!
ok, so with the clutch tack welded on, does it still utilise the electromagnetic clutch, so the charger is not always spinning, or it is basically fixed no making the charger spinning all the time? thats the one thing i don't understand about welding the clutch
89' MR2 AW11... His
00' MR2 ZZW30... Hers
the clutch face is welded to the pulley.. so there is no clutch action what so ever. the charger is spinning all the time. hence why you have to have an ABV or some form of recirculation valve
so it wasn't possible at all to get the clutch to still work normally?, or would that have been too much work?
89' MR2 AW11... His
00' MR2 ZZW30... Hers
thayts heaps mad dude, well done
2JZ-GTE MX-83 Cressida
Toymods Car Club Club Member # 185
well yes and no... it *would* be possible however the issues are:
cant use toyota electro magnet (wont fit under pulley)
ford magent will fit but youd need to make up a spacer and weld this to the magnet to make it fit centrically on the SC shaft.
now those things arnt that big an issue.. the real issue would be that the toyota pulley actually has a clutch compound inside it to provide extra friction so the clutch wont slip. the falcon one dosent. it is simply a bare metal face. my feeling was that the bare metal face wouldnt provide sufficent friction to prevent slipping. at least not without knurling both faces. (which would casue vibrations and buckets of noise)
so in short i dont think you could *really* clutch it. that said it could be tried but i dont feel the success would be there. keep in mind the SC takes what 40hp to spin ? the ac takes 5hp ? so the metal-metal clutch is designed to hold significantly less power.
but also that said i think one of the best parts of this is the fact it has a fixed pulley. as the take up is much quicker then the clutched system. it is producing posivitve pressure noticably before the computer switches the clutch (as the SC light on the dash comes on)
as a result it has a very agressive feel..
no worries, didn't realise that is what they were like, never pulled either apart.
good work getting it done, now the test will be to see how it goes over time hey
cheers
89' MR2 AW11... His
00' MR2 ZZW30... Hers
FWIW - I get the feeling that the 'clutch material' in the ZE cluch is there to act as a pad to make the clutch quieter when it engages.
I've pulled apart a SC clutch which has had all that material burned off (don't ask) and it still worked fine..
well yeah i guess the trick is keeping it all bolted together
the thing that really kills the SC's is heat roasting the teflon coatings. a Roots SC shouldnt produce much heat when it isnt producing positive pressure as there is no internal compression unlike a twinscrew. the heat and pressure is developed in the plumbing in the outlet snout the of the charger. Now provided you have a suitable bypass (ABV) which is open then there is no compression in the outlet plumbing and hence should be no pressure. hence no heat. or minimal considering frictional heat gains.
hmm interesting....
the other issue with trying to use the clutch would be getting enough freeplay to allow the pulley to free wheel without interfering with the clutch. since the pulley sits outboard a little further then the starard pulley when you bolt it all together the clutch and the pulley are in contact with each other. this is not the case with the toyota pulley.
i spose that would actually make sense, that may be why everytime mine engages there is a hearty cluck that makes poeple look, haha, could be just the material worn away. i know the charger i put on the old red one was like that, and it had a large build up of dust around it, like brake/clutch dust
89' MR2 AW11... His
00' MR2 ZZW30... Hers
tighten your belt.
my flatmates gtz made a nice metallic clunk whenever the charger was enguaged. a little more belt tension and it was gone.
hmm, ok might give that a go, but i thougt its already pretty tight, don't want to put too much stress on the water pump
89' MR2 AW11... His
00' MR2 ZZW30... Hers
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