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Thread: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

  1. #1
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    an excellent and experienced .. I drive a 4 doors AE111, (Malaysia model) .. I've replaced the original engine 4AFE to 4AGE 6 SPD from halfcut ... My problem! Engine noise! This involves the bearings, rods, pistons and block .. I am not sure whether a block can still be used again or not .. although I use the ACL and a full balancing .. why is this happening? I use 15w40 ENEOS

    I have decided to buy engines silvertop .. My proposal is under silvertop block with gearbox s / t c56, crank, rods, and except piston. gearbox which one the best to drag race weekend? c56 s / t b / t or c160 b / t! how bout wiring n ECU.

    I put them on b/top head with his wiring and ECU (I intend KELFORD cam) of what you think about CAM? I still want my car on the road.

    what are your suggestions? and what are the problems? mean gearbox mounts, cambelt, oil pump? or any kind of possibility that will happen ..

  2. #2
    Backyard Fabricator Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    if you want to retain the blacktop hydraulic timing belt tensioner then you need to use the blacktop oil pump. If you dont swap that over then you have to use the silvertop timing belt tensioner, which is more reliable in my experience

    If you're using the blacktop head then you can retain all your current loom etc, it's best to use pistons designed for the blacktop combustion chamber.

  3. #3
    Senior ****** Carport Converter Sam_Q's Avatar
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    your compression ratio will drop with the blacktop head but it can be compensated for with various means. I suggest you get your current engine checked out first though as it may be something quite fixable.



    Also I am in the process of becoming a reseller for 20v cams that are proven to work with VVT, PM me if you want to know more.

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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    thank you bro JP and Bro sam (I will your PM ) what your proposal we I entry once ARP bolt stud rod? have to be or we take original only fair enough.

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    Senior ****** Carport Converter Sam_Q's Avatar
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    fit arp rod bolts? no real need.

    Assuming that's what your saying

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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    owh!! not so necessary. ok if like that. is there anything I will refer return.

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    Your mum is a Conversion King TERRA Operative's Avatar
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    I make a habit of replacing rod bolts, head bolts and main bolts with new genuine toyota parts when I pull an engine apart as they aren't expensive and it removes any doubt about their strength.

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    Senior ****** Carport Converter Sam_Q's Avatar
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    replacing rod bolts isn't exactly a cheap exercise when you have to remachine the rod caps after doing so.

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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    one more problem. but it related to superchager (ae92) inside AE80 (friend car). he always troubled with driveshaft. always sounded and sometimes buckle. hahahaha. how overcome it? to my mind replacement gearbox and driveshaft different model. the proposal c52 ,c56, c60. but does it correct matching? whereas E58. where better to ratio? ask proposal!!!

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    Your mum is a Conversion King TERRA Operative's Avatar
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    The E58 gearbox has stronger gears and thicker driveshafts. The ratios are also better suited to a supercharged engine too.

    I've never had to remachine rod caps after replacing the bolts? just press the old ones out and press the new ones in.

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    Senior ****** Carport Converter Sam_Q's Avatar
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    Quote Originally Posted by TERRA Operative View Post
    The E58 gearbox has stronger gears and thicker driveshafts. The ratios are also better suited to a supercharged engine too.

    I've never had to remachine rod caps after replacing the bolts? just press the old ones out and press the new ones in.
    that goes against the advice of every engine builder I have ever talked to.

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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    Why do they need remachining? What actually gets remachined? Boring them will mean the bearings will be loose, and machining the mating surfaces will mean the hole becomes oval and the bearings won't fit.
    I've never heard of it, and the Toyota manuals don't mention it either.
    If you are just swapping the bolts out for new ones that do the same job, what else changes that requires machining?

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    Senior ****** Carport Converter Sam_Q's Avatar
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    that's exactly what my logic tells me however it's not what the machining shops say. The skim the surface where it faces the rod to make it a slight oval shape and then they "re-round" it. They say that swapping the rod bolts causes the caps to be slightly missaligned. Don't get me wrong I still think it sounds bogus but they all seem to say it

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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    my meaning here. can gearbox different that matches to engine supercharge that? which one the best.

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    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic dangdang's Avatar
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    Default Re: silvertop bottom with a blacktop head

    Quote Originally Posted by TERRA Operative View Post
    Why do they need remachining? What actually gets remachined? Boring them will mean the bearings will be loose, and machining the mating surfaces will mean the hole becomes oval and the bearings won't fit.
    I've never heard of it, and the Toyota manuals don't mention it either.
    If you are just swapping the bolts out for new ones that do the same job, what else changes that requires machining?
    I know that with the replacement of the factory fasteners with ARP fasteners it is a good practice to hone (not machine) the big end with the cap fitted and torqued. This is because the new fastener pressed into the rod may not align the rod cap perfectly again where the two meet. It would be a good practice also even when using replacement factory bolts IMO.

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