The 18R-GTE reference manual ...

[The Witzl]

i would love to test that oil pump.... but with over $3000 invested in my engine, im not willing to take a risk just now.

Happy to buy once someone has tested, or someone with experience can advise if it will be ok.

[timbosaurus]

Why not just test it in an 18RC junker?

Edit: Not meaning to sound like someone else should do it, I just don't have any 18Rx engines in cars.

[o_man_ra23]

Will let you know if I can test once I have my pistons out.

[MnToyGuy]

Hi all. I forgot it at work last week, so it'll be over x-mas break. It turns fine fully assembled with no binding. The tolerances are per the green bible.

Mike and I discussed the material hardness and he feels it should be soft (he has a degree in Automotive Engineering). If a metal shaving gets in there it'll score rather than bind and snap something like the shaft or shear gears. Based on the scoring of the stock one running in an AL housing, he feels they are soft. We can run a Brinell hardness test to be sure though.

That said, we could have them carburized as mentioned before. That will make them VERY hard. Try drilling a W58 clutch fork! Grind through the surface hardness and it's butter.

The motor in my car isn't running right and my oil pressure gage floats around like Boy George. I'll check on the 1GC forum for takers as well. That's a good idea trying it on a 18RC!

[o_man_ra23]

I pulled one of my pistons that was low on compression yesterday. Basically, Tony Greig came around with the car keys to test out the ringlands

So... I am going to need to build a whole new bottom end for this beast, and in doing so will go 92mm overbore, with Arias 8.5:1 forged pistons, and CrMo rods. The pistons have to come from the US, have a lead time of 4-6 weeks, and similar for postage time. Quote I have so far is US$640 delivered for a set including rings, gudgeon pins and pin clips, but I will be finding out if they are willing to drop that price if more are purchased (allowing for differences in compression, but not differences in diameter). Once I have an answer on that, assuming it is positive, I will ask the board if I can do a group buy on them. That will be advertised and linked in my sig, so keep an eye on it if you are interested. I want to get this underway soon if it is going to happen.

Witzl, I am also going to need a set of rods, so if you would be able to PM me details on the ones you got made, that would be great (including cost so I can get an idea of what I am up against). I may try and do a group buy on them too.

The other items I will use are main studs (I believe 22R are correct fitment, please let me know if I am wrong), and head studs. Paeco will do customs as a one off for about US$300 landed, but if anyone else knows what head studs are available, please divulge.

[MnToyGuy]

Owen, I did some of the math on the 22R head studs here: http://www.1stgencelica.com/forum/vi...php?f=10&t=904

Remember a GB of 5 sets of cutoms heads AND mains from ARP will run $414 a set. Count me in for one and at least one set from another regular on 1GC. We're at 3 sets already!

If 7M mains truly do work, then that price should come down further.

[old_school_jap1]

I suggest you read the latest in the 'love of tractor thread'. Looks like mitsubishi ARP studs may be easier

[o_man_ra23]

Have a read of my reply in that thread regarding heat treating.

[Willofan]

Hi all. I forgot it at work last week, so it'll be over x-mas break. It turns fine fully assembled with no binding. The tolerances are per the green bible.

Mike and I discussed the material hardness and he feels it should be soft (he has a degree in Automotive Engineering). If a metal shaving gets in there it'll score rather than bind and snap something like the shaft or shear gears. Based on the scoring of the stock one running in an AL housing, he feels they are soft. We can run a Brinell hardness test to be sure though.

That said, we could have them carburized as mentioned before. That will make them VERY hard. Try drilling a W58 clutch fork! Grind through the surface hardness and it's butter.

The motor in my car isn't running right and my oil pressure gage floats around like Boy George. I'll check on the 1GC forum for takers as well. That's a good idea trying it on a 18RC!

Hi everyone and happy new year,

I have to cross read more threads rather than get stuck on a few that I am only interested in. Thanks to a mention on the Life of a Tractor thread, I have taken an interest in the oil pump developments by MnToyGuy in this thread.

Hey MnToyGuy, I will put in an order for one of these pumps to try too. Hope this makes your numbers up closer to fill the group buy.

Cheers all, Willofan

[MnToyGuy]

Willofan, gotcha down. We are pretty much there on the numbers, I just need someone to test the pump on a running engine. It pumps fine in a bucket of oil, so the next step is finding a test engine.

[Gumwah]

How are ya.

Ill be keen on one of those pumps once proven. Thats if you dont mind sending to NZ? ill pay P&P of corse. Going to be in Perth for the next 6 weeks doing a course so hopefully i may even be able to just take it back on the plane(estimated weight of the pump?) if its not too much that would be great.

So I had an idea to do all the usual mods but use 9.5:1 CR 2200cc with only 6psi boost. As ill probably be adding in a turbo later on when i get more $ but still want it to have some little nuts before the turbo gets added. As its going to be a daily driver once i sell the levin so I want it running asap.
Any probs with the CR?

[MnToyGuy]

Pumps are going to need a design tweak. I checked it this weekend again with all bolts properly torqued and it binds slightly. I do have a guy lined up (2nd hand) to test, which is why I checked again, so let’s hope he’s still available.

They’d be coming from the states gumwah, so NP shipping to NZ.

[MnToyGuy]

Where have you guys tapped into water and oil for your turbos? What size lines are you running?

Also, for anyone running MSII, what have you done to keep the hose to the onboard MAP sensor from blowing off during boost?

[o_man_ra23]

Water I took the bypass hose and instead of running it from the pump outlet to the thermostat housing, I ran it from the pump to the turbo, then to the thermostat housing. 3/8" line

Oil I took from the outlet under the pressure sender (actually, put the pressure sender on the bottom outlet and took the turbo oil from the top outlet). Return goes to a bung I put in the sump. 3/8" line with an orifice near the turbo currently at 3mm, but will expand to 6mm with the new pump.

Both water and oil I used bundy tube most of the way, with suitably rated hose where flex joins were needed. I also used olive joins wherever necessary as I don't have a bugle flaring tool.

[o_man_ra23]

Here is a query about spark plugs.

I have been reading around the NGK site, and after doing some research, I have the following info:
OEM replacement plug - BPR5EY where the BPR and E relate to sizing. The Y means it has a v grooved electrode, and the 5 is the heat range - a lower number will heat up quicker (for lower powered engines).

So I am looking at using either the BPR6EIX Iridium plug, or BPR7EIX plug. Basic engine specs relevant shall be:
Pistons - 8.5:1 compression 92mm forged
Head - 88270 with standard cams and valves
Fully balanced bottom end
EFI with 40,000V E-coil and NGK leads (going to convert to crank angle sensor)
estimated max RPM - 8000RPM (unusual to go past 6000RPM)
max boost - 16PSI (normal street use will be 10PSI)

So would I expect to need to change by 1 or 2 heat ranges??