Adaptronic and 1JZ and Fuel pump

[RA35GT]

As per what manny said.

The adaptronic can't sink enough current for the fuel pump. (This includes the high power aux outs). (Additionally the adaptronic outputs are switched grounds, that is they can only supply a ground).

Wire up as below (put a fuse off the battery though)

[Gibbon]

Whoa - ok.

So a normal relay would be:

30 - Battery
87 - Switched output
86 - Switch
85 - Ground

Would I then have something like this ??

30 - Battery
87 - To pump ground
86 - To ECU Aux 1
85 - Ground

Cheers

[RA35GT]

30 - Battery + (through fuse)

87 - Pump Positive

86 - ECU Aux 1

85 - Ignition +12V

(Connect the pump negative to a constant ground)

[Gibbon]

Will do.

Just did a quick test.

Connected the positive battery to the pump, and the Aux 1 of the adap to the other pole.

The pump runs as soon as the battery is switched on - with the ignition and the Adap turned off.

Switching on ignition, and the Adap fires up - but the pump continues to run after the prime period is over.

Does that mean the Adap is not switching earth - Aux1 is always earthed ???

[manny]

Will do.

Just did a quick test.

Connected the positive battery to the pump, and the Aux 1 of the adap to the other pole.

The pump runs as soon as the battery is switched on - with the ignition and the Adap turned off.

Switching on ignition, and the Adap fires up - but the pump continues to run after the prime period is over.

Does that mean the Adap is not switching earth - Aux1 is always earthed ???

If you connect positive battery direct to the pump, you've bypassed any relay and it will always run regardless of the relay state.

You can test the Aux 1 output by connecting only 86 to ECU Aux 1 and 85 to Ignition +12V and leaving 30 and 87 unused - powering the Adaptronic up should cause the relay to energise and audibly click for the set duration.

[JP]

So have you tested the COR triggering yet manually? Ignore the adaptronic, ground pin Y14 to the chassis with a length of test wire.

You will need pin 3 and 13 bridged in the V plug of the diagram above and the ignition switched on when you do this test.

If that works and the pump runs when the wire is grounded to the chassis and stops when you release it, wire pin Y14 to any of the adaptronic Aux outputs and configure as directed in the previous posts. If you do that and it runs all the time you may have blown the driver in the ECU.

I can't remember what the adaptronic does with unconfigured aux outputs, I have a vague recollection that if they're unconfigured they default to a ground circuit.

[Gibbon]

Not yet - I have only soldered pin 13 - IGSW.

Tonight I'll join pin 3 - M-REL and pin 13 together on the patch loom - and then, as mentioned, ground pin 14 from the body loom and watch the pump turn on !

Thanks for all your help - it's starting to make more sense now.

[Gibbon]

Hahahah - it lives !!!

Idle's like crap, and sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders - but it kicks over and runs.

Having a look around the software, concentrating on the laptop, and the cabin starts to fill with smoke.

WTF !!

Turn it off, and it's not an electrical smell - get out of the car, and have a look underneath.

The cat converter is glowing, looked like a mini sun under there ! There's smoke pouring out of the engine bay from under the firewall from the heat i guess - Holy Crap Batman !

Time for a dyno tune now.

Thanks for all the tips and advice.

[JP]

Probably a good chance that you've melted the cat

do you have a wideband installed?

[Gibbon]

Probably a good chance that you've melted the cat

do you have a wideband installed?

Fantastic

No - just the factory one.

Why would it have run so hot that it glowed red?

[JP]

either far too much fuel or the timing way out, or a combination of both creating massive EGT's...

[Gibbon]

So with the Adap connected I have no tacho.

Looking at the ECU pinouts there seems to be two spots where RPM is measured.

Pin X17 - IGF - RPM1 - which I believe is the signal from the ignitor back to the ECU
and
Pin X23 - IGT1 - RPM2

The Adaptronic is not using the IGF - would I be corrent in assuming that the tacho is getting it's signal from this pin?

Would I bridge pin X17 and X23 to replicate the RPM2 signal onto the X17 pin?

[JP]

what ignitor are you using?

I wire one of the Adap aux outs to feed the tacho.

In a stock 1J config the tach is driven by the IG- pin of the 1J ignitor.

[Gibbon]

Using a Microtech X6 ignitor.

Which IG pin do you mean - the IGF pin or the IGT1 pin?

[JP]

on a stock 1J ignitor, there is an IG- pin which is fed to the diags block and to the cluster. IGT1 and IGf are not used to drive the tach. Configure an Aux output as the tacho and wire it to the tach.