just wondering if the mv 2jz auto from an aristo will handle 500rwhp??? ill need to swap over the extension housing to run the yoke sytle sharft to bolt up to my cressida tailsharft.
yeah i know you have been going well with yours but i really dont want to get under to offen lol. plus i might pump more power out once i upgrade the coil packs. maybe abit of gas later on down the track to lol.
You could probably use a few more words and some pronunciation to explain what you want to do dude.
well basicly ive got a 2j in a cressida making 500rwhp through a r154 but im thinking about going a auto. basicly the factory 2j gearbox will bolt stright up and all work easy enough but not sure how much power they can take. i drive it every day to work etc and really would like to still have a 4speed as it goes down the highway abit to.
make sure you run a nice big trans cooler and use the genuine Toyota T-IV fluid...
there's a pretty well known supra over here doing just that and putting down 500rwhp with no box issues
completely stock box, big trans cooler and Toyota fluid changed at proper intervals
Now - 1988 GX81 Mark II- 7MGTE, GT35R, TiAL 44m, Microtech, 550cc injectors, R154, Xtreme clutch, LSD.... Low boost tune done = 330rwhp@1 BAR...
Then - 1989 MX83 - The big scrap heap in the sky...
A rebuilt box with a good converter will handle that much power with no problems. Start with a 1JZ box and use the 2JZ valve body and you will avoid the extension housing hassles and the converters are cheaper to build. If you have an aftermarket ecu than you can use whatever box with a shiftbox to control it.
doesnt the 1j box run a kickdown cable??? how do you get that to work??? and yes im running an aftermarket ecu.
sorry but i dont know much about auto's really but how does the line pressure work??? what would i have to do to put a 1j box in with my aftermarket ecu??? not worried weather its full manual or not. what ever is easyer and holds good power.
Bookmarks