everything minus adding a turbo/supercharger![]()
Just out of intrest, how many things can you do to an engine to enhance the performace of an engine without changing it from natural aspiration? i was hoping to get a list started so if you want to add extra things copy the most recent post, paste it and then chuck your additions to the end. (sorry for being a noob)![]()
yes, i own a car, it has four wheels and an engine. and in the end, isn't that what really matters
everything minus adding a turbo/supercharger![]()
well i did say naturally aspirated. because you wouldnt exatctly want to lower the compression of an engine your not going to turbo... right?
I was taliking about things like
-Sports Cams - increase the duration of the valves opening and closing the engine is best suited to higher revs and can cause a stodgy tick over. Cam profiles vary from fast road to full race. One of the most cost effective and noticeable modifications you can do. We explain the many profiles available and the typical effect it will have on performance.
- Port Matching - increases the diameter of the exhaust and inlet ports to match the profile on the manifolds which are nearly always bigger. (Don't take out the V groove as the torque will drastically reduce! The aim is to allow a smoother flow of air without the turbulence associated with having a step between the mating surfaces.
- Crank grind/polish - While the crank is ground it is worth balancing all of the other internals of the engine - your redline will be higher if the engine is balanced and a lighter polished crank gives less friction and releases more power from the engine.
(yes i copied these from a site)
yes, i own a car, it has four wheels and an engine. and in the end, isn't that what really matters
-Sports Cams - increase the duration of the valves opening and closing the engine is best suited to higher revs and can cause a stodgy tick over. Cam profiles vary from fast road to full race. One of the most cost effective and noticeable modifications you can do. We explain the many profiles available and the typical effect it will have on performance.
- Port Matching - increases the diameter of the exhaust and inlet ports to match the profile on the manifolds which are nearly always bigger. (Don't take out the V groove as the torque will drastically reduce! The aim is to allow a smoother flow of air without the turbulence associated with having a step between the mating surfaces.
- Crank grind/polish - While the crank is ground it is worth balancing all of the other internals of the engine - your redline will be higher if the engine is balanced and a lighter polished crank gives less friction and releases more power from the engine.
- Index your spark plugs - This involves facing all spark plug electrodes to inlet valves ( open side of electrode) promotes better burning of fuel.
- hevy duty valve springs or just get rid of em and go pneumatic solenoids![]()
-- adjustable cam gears.
- Raise comp
-Aftermarket ECU
- electronic waterpump- less hp drain on engine
-Better intake and exhaust manifolds
I could go on for days!!!
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
Def do not search google
Cheers
Wilbo
hahaha pwn3d
knife edge the crank is one of those things you can do when chasing every last hp
Nitrous oxide... Surely that's not counted as forced induction:-)??
depends if your dentist has to hold you downOriginally Posted by mrshin
don't worry spaz, everyone has to start somewhere... i would seriously suggest the internet as a starting point tho... the basics of modifying engins have been in the worls for.... nearly a century? a long time anywaythere is sooo much information out there, it would take years to read it all...
or just get a performance tuning book![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
as has been said, you relaly should google then ask about the specifics of certain things - for example, you should have a goal in mind (in terms of power, torque curve, what you want to use the car for).
A starters list:
CAI
tuned length extractors (for peak power? low down torque?) + exhaust
cams (will shift your power curve up)
adjustable cam gears (lightened, plus adjustable timing)
ITBs (increased air flow if you need it, better response)
high comp pistons with overbore
valves + springs, depending on what rpm you plan on running
lightened flywheel
port matching + polishing
ecu to control all the weird stuff you've done to your engine
bigger injectors
remove p/s and aircon pulleys, elec waterpump
lighten your other pulleys
of course, for most people not all of these options are economically viable - there comes a point where the person with an average bankbook has to consider the $:hp gain, and think if maybe a turbo/sc is a better/cheaper option.
string:
<--------------------------------------???-------------------------------------->
../delete/ban
tech moderator
E46 M3 Nürburgring Nordschleife - 8.38
same as one of my race engines!
Short motor
Debur block. open up oil returns if possible.
Tunnel bore crank tunnel.
Use deck plate to bore.
Lighten crack and knife edge.
Balance roatating assem.
Use light strong I-beam Oliver rods {titanium rods if you have the budget}etc.
use light piston like CP,pick pin height to suit Rod and the stroke you want.
Rod bolts ARP and Main Studs ARP
Sump, for wet sump{ increase size down low, add oneway gates,baffle} for Dry {cut down to a 1.5 inch pan etc and add scavangers.}.
Bearings depend on wet or dry sump.
Rings, just use what a come with a quality piston, unless you want total seal.
Gaskets, best you can get hold off! Felpro race or toyota{metal shim}.
High volume oil pump or stronger syntered one.
HEAD
Tunnel bore cam jornals.
Port and polish on Flowbench.
Titanium oversize valves.
Titanium locks.
bronze guides.
quilty spring to suit revs{ isky etc}.
Quailty cams{duration and lift to suit engine use}.
Mesh oil returns.
Shim under buckets for OHC{ roller cam and rockers for non OHC etc}.
ARP head and Cam jornal studs.
Vernier cam gears.
Quality timing belt or chain.
remote elec waterpump.
individual throttle bodies.
thats a very basic list but its a starting point.
methanol or nitromethane
One thing I have read about recently to add to all the good lists of modifications.
Removing weight from any part rotating at engine speed is: 15 times more effective than the same weight from the car and five times more effective than removing it from parts rotating at road speed.
So, as said by others before, most gains from stock are found in lightening and/or balancing all the rotating enigine parts.
Regards
Rodger
really if your on a budget and want a car to go faster.. dont open the hood... best bang for your buck upgrade. go buy some decent tyres. scrap the bob jane burn out specials for a decent set of rubber and it will instantly make your car go faster in a straight line, turn better and stop better.
Originally Posted by Rodger
yes because 1 kg out of rotating assemble makes a big diffrence in quicker spin up, but 1 kg out of a chassis dosnt do much. its all relative.
Bookmarks