what current can that builtin PWM driver support. Am curious as to whether the pump motor might be a bit much for it?
Ok,
I'm configuring a PWM high current output on my Adaptronic to control a pump for the water to air intercooler.
I want to set it up so that the pump runs at 25-50% or so (I'll figure it out when tuning) and to ramp up the speed to 100% with the aux temp input that will be used to sense the water temp from the intercooler.
I also want the pump to switch to 100% whenever the car is on boost, plus a delay to switch off.
Is this possible? I have set the output for the pump to 'OR' and am referencing MAP and the temp sensor, but how do I set the output to ramp up with water temp (it seems to be on/off) and to delay turning off for a few seconds when the car comes off boost?
Also, to make the stock idle speed control work, I have set PWM output 1 to Idle stepper 1 pulse, and PWM output to the same but inverted. That way either side of the idle speed control coils will see the opposite and the motor should move???
Is this correct? I don't think it is, has anyone done this with a 4AGZE or 3SGTE (they're the same) etc??
More stupid questions to come...
Last edited by TERRA Operative; 18-09-2010 at 08:02 AM.
what current can that builtin PWM driver support. Am curious as to whether the pump motor might be a bit much for it?
3A inductive, 7A resistive. I can use a mosfet or the like to drive whatever size pump I want though.
With the 3 wire iscv you need to select "idle control" for both RSO and RSC.
RSC inverted and bothat 50% as you've done.
Idle stepper option is for stepper motor type control won't operate thepush/pull type iscv's.
I think 200hz is the frequency for those iscv's.
AW11 - 1988 Red ADM 4AGZE conversion +
MZW11 - 1987 Track car - "Ag-Spec Racing 1" - 1MZ powered AW11
ST246 - 2002 Caldina GT-Four 'N-Edition'
MS65 - 1973 Bash Car bash.skyracing.tv/
The stock frequency is 250Hz according to the documentation.
I had a look for the idle control as you said but I've only got the following available:
Idle Stepper 1 - Hold (normal)
Idle Stepper 2 - Hold (normal)
Idle Stepper 3 - Hold (normal)
Idle Stepper 4 - Hold (normal)
Idle Stepper 1 - Pulse
Idle Stepper 2 - Pulse
Idle Stepper 3 - Pulse
Idle Stepper 4 - Pulse
Idle Up
Idle Down
I assumed I needed the pulse one?
i have no idea how this would work. but i am interested in your results and how and if you get it to work as i would like to do the same.
1990 Aus Delivered Widebody GT4 Play 200 awkw
1996 HDJ80. turbo multivalve 80 series landcruiser
1997 HZJ80 Landcruiser Sold![]()
1993 Soarer V8 Manual Sold![]()
1986 Celica SX Sold![]()
I have another question in addition to the ones above.
I have been commissioned to install an adaptronic into a Jeep Cherokee with a stroked engine.
This would be an easy task if it were a pre update model, as I would ditch the stock ECU and install the Adaptronic.
However, it's never as easy as that.... This is an update model, so everything is can-bus..... The alternator has it's regulator in the ECU, the ABS, Airbags, Transmission computer and even the gauge cluster is all on the can-bus, so if I pull the ECU, who knows what will and won't work...
So, can I double up on some of the sensors in any way? I know I cant just connect both ECU's to one sensor, but is there a way to somehow link them together (a module maybe?) so I can have both ECU's reading the same sensor? The owner would like a direct swapover solution if possible.
If I have to run extra sensors, then so be it, but it would be nice if there was a way (we can do it with 0-20mA sensors in industrial process control, why not here?)
If not, I'll just have to install the extra sensors wired into his stock loom and have some sort of jumper plug to bridge out the Adaptronic when it's removed.
what firmware/software/ecu?
mine is current f/w and definatly has "idle control" available in the drop down for the 1-4 high load outputs, i saw it today.
might need to do the upgrades... features and improvements are worth it.
AW11 - 1988 Red ADM 4AGZE conversion +
MZW11 - 1987 Track car - "Ag-Spec Racing 1" - 1MZ powered AW11
ST246 - 2002 Caldina GT-Four 'N-Edition'
MS65 - 1973 Bash Car bash.skyracing.tv/
I did upgrade the firmware to the latest, and have the latest tuning software. I'll check when I'm back home after the weekend to be sure.
Abit of a hijack .
Ive just finished droping my freshly forged engine in my lux and iam running a adaptronic ecu. Problems is it need i to start it first start u right away other wise the bores will glaze over.
But i have a **** of a cold start map which was programed by a **** of a tuner. Is there any trick i can do to fudge the computer to think its hotter and start up? like change some values of some shit
Fill the engine with hot water. I am not kidding.
Tried that and als used a hair dryer on the sensors. Meh its on a tow truck 2morow and off to the workshop
Firmware - v7.0
Software - v5.0
ECU - v1.0
I found the idle control setting you mentioned. Once the patch loom is done I'll be able to get started on breaking things properly....
Oh, as my ECU was made 22/02/2007, is it likely that there are improvements to the hardware that would be worthwhile me sending the ECU to Adaptronic for?
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
Unplug the water temp sensor. If no signal the adaptronic assumes 27deg c from memory. Go to corrections tab -> coolant enrichment low map. set it to about 80kpa. Then on the map at the wt 25 and 30 point add the percentage of extra fuel you wanna add.
This will get added whileever the sensor is unplugged.
I don't actually use any coolant temp enrichment besides adding a safety trim ramping up from 95deg c.
AW11 - 1988 Red ADM 4AGZE conversion +
MZW11 - 1987 Track car - "Ag-Spec Racing 1" - 1MZ powered AW11
ST246 - 2002 Caldina GT-Four 'N-Edition'
MS65 - 1973 Bash Car bash.skyracing.tv/
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