Seems like theres an air leak somewhere which will cause your MAF to play up also.
Hi everyone im running into some issues with my 1uzfe swap into my 87 supra.
at the moment the car has been running extremely rich, (to the point of thick black smoke from the tailpipe)
and if the smoke clears as it does from time to time then the idle bounces between 800 and 1500 rpm
it will not rev past 3500 rpm (the rev just breaks up badly and pours more black smoke)
and today i found a brand new problem, its overheating and im not sure why.
the motor is out of a 97 sc400, the motor ecu and wiring harness all came from the same car, along with the radiator ,hydraulic fan, and coolant bottle.
so far to get the car running i have adjusted the tps , cleaned and oiled the idle air control valve , and replaced vac hoses
i have also pulled the codes and im getting
p0100 and occasionally p0101 which points to the maf wiring if im not mistaken.
here is a video of what its doing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfaG8-nFZHw
any and all help is greatly appreciated on this
thank you
+1 for air leak. Sucking in air will raise the idle/compensate by pumping in fuel to avoid lean running.
ok, so i sealed off all the visible leaks with vacuum caps
but i am unsure about the vacuum routing for the two vsv's
the one near the front of the engine has pretty large diameter hose and the one on the rear of the intake mani has smaller hose.
does anyone know the actual routing for these?
take a picture mate, its easier for people to understand which part you are referring to.
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
rear one goes to the charcoal emissions cannister so you can block that off temporarily while you figure things out
large front one sounds like the IAC valve air intake which goes to the intake just after the MAF as you can see here
The only other large one on the manifold is on the LHS which on our engines just goes to a PCV on the cam cover so you can block this off too if you need to, however on US engines there may be additional anti-pollution stuff attached? In which case i have NFI whether you can disconnect it or not
ok so the ones im talking about are not as big as the idle air control valve hose, there are two of them that run to a vsv in the front then theres another one that runs to the back with really small hose (i think its for the fpr)
does anyone know what the two vsv's on either side of the egr valve are for?
Hi mate,
pretty much if the car spits out an error code it will idle up.
how does it run when the afm is unplugged? It should run a base map and hopefully not blow smoke. If so then swap the afm and hopefully u will be right.
in front of the toyota/lexus badge is the IAC or stepper motor. The bearings in them can fail causing the motor to hunt. There are 2 types from what im aware of... a serviceable and non serviceable IAC. If its serviceable change the bearings in it. If not... spray a bit of carby clean in it. The afm can also cause the motor to hunt.
Its sounds like the motor is in limp mode. I had the same issue and it was the ignitors.
also have u tried: www.lextreme.com ?
hope this helps.
yeah see you have all the US anti-pollution crap, our engines dont (ignore the red circle)
with the maf unpluged it runs the same black smoke and all.
i already took out the iacv and cleaned and oiled it
yea the car is deff in limp mode . already changed out the maf as well.
how do you test the ignightors
btw the codes im getting back are p0100 and a bunch of trans codes (im running manual)
been a member on lextreme for a while now.
There are only two on the back. One goes to the heater tap, the big one goes to the brake booster.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
with the ignitors, i didnt actually test them. While looking at another 1uz to sort out some other problems i compared part numbers (my 1uz is from a 92 celisor). I swapped them with his and was able to rev out.
with the rev limiting, like u said its an issue with the wiring to the maf or the maf itself. Mine runs afm and i have gone through 3.
i know u have probably tried this... but have u tried clearing the codes when the engine has been warmed up? a quick indication if things are all good is that it will idle correctly from start up.
i have found that electrically these motors cause a bit of grief to get running right... but once they do they are a brilliant motor.
hey everyone i know its been a while since i posted up but here goes
i have now replaced the maf and ecu and its still running like absolute crap
im starting to suspect the wiring at this point
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