you have to remove all power. Disconnect the battery for around 30 seconds.
Will checking fault codes clear them once i'm done or will i have to reset the ECU?
i think they clear when the problem is fixed,
after turning the ignition off and on from memory.
So if I still have a fault after reconnecting an air temp sensor I must have a dud sensor.
tell us the full story of what u been doing/having issues with.
Earlier this year i fitted an NA inlet and the SC14 has been on for more than a year now. I've also moved the air temp sensor to the I/C pipe just before the TB when i changed the inlet. The car is used for club sprints and with 98ron and half a bottle of octane booster will not register any knocks on the knock link unless it's 35deg+ until the last time i was at Winton. Outside temp was about 10deg and in 4th gear the knock link lit up so I did an easy lap and tried again and it lit up again.
Mixtures are good through 1st, 2nd and 3rd with A/F of low 11’s but when it’s loaded up in 4th A/F sits steady at 12.5 which is when it will knock and I’m wondering if the stored fault with air temp sensor is related?
Check your timing.
If you have a dud sensor the computer may compensate the wrong way and possibly trimming fuel..
its not so much the gear your in its the manifold pressure and the RPM your doing that will lie the lean spot..
outside temp will mean sweet fuck all if your getting high inlet temps from the SC or the likes.
If your staying in the club sprints and have a spare grand n a half to play with perhaps buy and install a aftermarket engine management system so you can see in real time what your motor is doing and be able to make changes if needed.
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That's what i'm leaning towards, i've disconnected the battery and I’ll take it for another spin tonight. Hope it’s as simple as that.
Timing is set on first mark which i'm told is 10deg BTDC.
I mentioned outside temp coz it was much colder than any other time i've been out.
Thanks for the info.
Vic.
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