Turbosmart bleed valve

[Stomps]

hey does anyone know what the Turbosmart bleed valve is rated to..

I have wound up the thing pretty high and no matter where i put it, it dont go over 15psi..

When i wind it up the gauge shows 15psi, but on the dyno it only showed 13.5psi...

The turbo is a Trust TD-06h 18g... with internal gate..

could it be that the internal gate has reached its max limit..

Stomps

[mullett]

Not sure. I don't think there's a limit, but it'll depend on your gate. Basically when it's fully closed, no air can get thru, so the gate should stay shut forever. But I imagine the internal spring is giving up before then.

RM

[Ghetto-AW11]

sounds like the actuator cant hold the wastegate shut above 15/13.5psi . Looks like you need to get a new stronger one. A new actuator that is....

[30psi 4agte]

On the dyno there is a way to tell if its the wastegate or the turbo turbo hat cant hold boost .

What you do is jam the gate shut with a screw driver and do a run ( being prepared to back off if boost gets too high or set a boost cut if u can)

I have had to do this not to long ago as the max boost i could get even with EBC was 26 psi. We werent sure if it was the turbo that couldnt give any more or the wastegate actuator.
It turns out it was the actuator!!

If you a really careful and are able to set a boost cut ( not sure if you have aftermarket ECU or not ) you can wire the wastegate shut and go for a drive and see what the boost does. If it goes up high then you know its the actuator but if it doesnt then look else where!! boost leak mabe ????????
That little turbo will be able to supply more than 15 psi no prob



You could just wire it closed and try it regardless of boost cut. BUT i didnt say this

[YLD-16L]

Basically when it's fully closed, no air can get thru, so the gate should stay shut forever.

No, when the bleed valve is fully closed the turbo will run the minimum amount of boost i.e. the wastegate will open earlier/lower boost than if the bleed valve is open/bleeding.

More bleeding = more boost (to a certain point).

hey does anyone know what the Turbosmart bleed valve is rated to..

As some people have mentioned already, they are not rated to anything. Your wastegate actuator will have an amount of tension that is provided by the internal spring - this determines the minimum amount of boost.

When i wind it up the gauge shows 15psi, but on the dyno it only showed 13.5psi...

The gauges in cars are not always accurate (nor sometimes are measurements at workshops), I would assume the dyno has something a little better callibrated than the gauge in you car though.

could it be that the internal gate has reached its max limit..

Nope, it is your wastegate actuator that can't supply enough tension to provide more boost. When your internal gate can't flow enough you will see boost creep i.e. the boost will keep rising with increasing rpm.

If you really want to see what the maximum boost is that your actuator can currently provide then simply remove the boost reference line (plug up the line) and run the car up. This essentially give you the same test as a 100% bleed.

The methods of fixing the wastegate shut as has been mentioned will provide you with info on what the turbo can produce as maximum boost in its current state.

Without seeing your setup or knowing what you have done to the turbo it is hard to offer solid advice on upping the boost. But a question from me is:

Is your wastegate actuator mounted to the compressor housing (usually they are) and have you "clocked" either your exhaust or compressor housings to fit it to your car? What is the maximum boost with the bleed valve closed or not fitted?

Cheers.

[Stomps]

ah, cheers all... i will try to disconnect the actuator and see what happens... i will be going to an external gate soon anyway.. just wanna see what the issue is..

Yeah the actuator is mounted on the compressor housing...

Yeah the turbo should be able to flow way more then 15psi... its just starting to spool up then..

At the moment what it does is slowly make boost up to about 7psi between 2000 and 4000 rpm... at 4000rpm boost jumps from 7 to around 14psi in under a second, then stays around there....

i will try blocking the actuator and see what happens... i got a HKS FCD which will control the fuel cut so i cant overboost..

cheers again

Stomps

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Not going to stop you at the drags is it?

It does sound like a wastegate problem, but it also does sound a rather low level for an aftermarket turbo like that to be creeping enough to cause that much of an issue.

[Stomps]

hellllllllllllllllllll nooooooooooooo

im still going tonight, i will just wind the fuckers out of it and see what happens...

if it is a wastegate issue then im not too worried as im going aftermarket...

also forgot to mention, over the last few nights, my car is making a loud whining noise, sounds like its coming from the turbo, but it makes it sound like a supercharger... im thinking boost leak, but it dosent seem to be losing any accordng to the gauge...

for those going to the OST drags tonight you will hear it..

Stomps

[3AM]

you've got a good turbo and good power, but you're running a cheap boost controller.

I think you should invest in a better form of boost control than a turbofart bleed valve.

a sencond hand old style profec will cost around 200-250, or even an old blitz for much the same price, bleed valves are very prone to spiking and a propper electronic boost controller would offer quicker spool up.

the noise is most probably a gasket leak, my car doest that all the time.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Well he found out that the problem lies in blades that are missing from the turbo, but i'll let him go into more detail when he wakes up

[YLD-16L]

also forgot to mention, over the last few nights, my car is making a loud whining noise, sounds like its coming from the turbo, but it makes it sound like a supercharger... im thinking boost leak, but it dosent seem to be losing any accordng to the gauge...

You have to have one hell of a boost leak for it to show up on your gauge - your turbo/wastegate try to maintain a given boost level so if there is a leak the turbo just works harder (if it has capacity left in it to do so) and you usually still see the preset boost level. A leak usually shows itself as a noise, delayed onset of boost and depending on the size of the leak will produce varying drops in power levels usually due to the turbo working harder to compensate for the leak and hence becoming inefficient.

bleed valves are very prone to spiking

Bleed valves in themselves aren't but the "gated" style are (such as the current turbo smart ones) the "gate" in them is quite inconsistent across individual controllers and may be preloaded to open anywhere from 10 - 20psi. If (and I don't think he mentioned it as an issue) you are having a spiking issue either change the gate spring for a softer one or remove the gate all together.

If you like to get things setup to your liking then it's pretty easy to take your bleed valve, determine the maximum boost level you wish to run, alter the gate spring until it opens approximately 1psi less than your max boost and then you will get rapid spooling (as the gate remains shut until 1psi before your max preset boost level) and no spiking. If you want a small 1-2psi spike then set the gate to open at 1psi above your preset boost level. If you find you want a "softer" spool-up of the turbo (often handy if traction is a big issue) then remove the gate all together. Spiking is also affected by the length/diameter of the boost reference line to the wastegate - this line should be as short as possible for accurate boost control.

The characteristics of a turbo and how they affect the performance of your car is one of the most easily manipulated aspects of a forced induction setup - if you understand how each and every item interacts with eachother

EDIT: Blades missing? hahahaha that would explain a few things - now how did they go missing and where did they end up