22re empty radiator

[checksix]

Sometimes kerosene is hard to find, but finding Coleman camp stove fuel is real easy, and cleans well with less residual and smell. As was mentioned previously, before putting the head back together give all the mating surfaces a good wipe down with break cleaner or similar residual free cleaner. I think when I put mine together over 20 years ago I coated things with "Copper coat". A tacky spray with fine copper flake in it. I'm not sure I'd recommend it now after hearing how much problem there can be in getting head separation from the block, but that was standard practice at the time on the MG's and Volvo's I used to build. Can other forum members comment if a head dressing is needed, and if so what the recommendations would be? I'm thinking of upping the compression ratio in mine this winter and that would be helpful!

[litldv8]

i still always use coppercoat or hylomar on headgaskets easer to have them seal properly and be (slightly) harder to remove than have to remove them again!
use a but on emery paper to roughen/clean the block face and have the head decked while it is off.
neil

[Bitsa]

......................... have the head decked while it is off.

Decked ????????

In hindsight I'm not even sure I blew a head gasket. Didn't appear to be anything wrong with the gasket, but, when I took the head off I've put a couple of little scratches in it. Damn. Am getting it checked on monday.

Apart from cleaning the oil off everything, work has come to a standstill while I wait for parts to arrive.

All input here appreciated.

Thanks men.


Trevor

[checksix]

"Decked" is having a few thousanths removed to ensure the surface is perfectly flat. If you have deep scratches, this should remidy the issue.

[Bitsa]

Thanks mate. The scratches aren't deep, noticeable though. Taking it to the head man tomorrow.

While I'm here, I'd like to get the injectors tested while things are pulled to bits so the question is: How do fuel injectors come out of the pipe they're in ?

I've used minimum force i.e. twisting and pulling but no go so far. Little more force maybe ? I ask because I've never removed fuel injectors before and I'm not keen on breaking them getting them out, however it is that they come out.

[Bitsa]

I got them out. They basically fell out. Don't know why they didn't do that yesterday.

Anyone removed an air conditioner ?

I want mine gone, pipes and all. It's never worked in the years I've had the car and has never bothered me. I can do without it. Any tricks to taking it out ??? Looks a bit complicated.

[checksix]

If it was still charged, then by law in the states you have to have pro capture the freon. If it is already leaked out, as I would suspect it is, then it's really just a matter of unbolting everything. Depending on how much work you want to do in removing the condenser (at the radiator) and the evaporator (inside with the heater box), you can cut or unbolt the hoses there and remove the components later when working in that area. Removal will save a little weight but not much. Removal of the compressor is the biggest gain. Make sure how all the fan belts run that removal of the compressor won't cause other issues. Generally they don't but since I have no idea what you have, I only mention it just to be sure. The wiring to the compressor that activates it generally comes from the thermostat controller in the cabin. I'd cut the wire where convenient and just for caution cover the bare part of the wire. In theory, it should never get power, but just to be safe. Some systems have a relay, some have pressure switches between the inside and compressor. Without a wiring schematic I can't give you all the details, but cutting any of this should not "generally" be an issue. If you have a schematic, consult it first to see what has power and when then cover any bare wire to play it safe.

[Bitsa]

Thanks for that information. Appreciate it. Yes there's no gas in it. I've already taken out the compressor and the bracket that holds it. Heavy little things, especially the bracket. Door stopper material. Those pipes and things confuse me, but, they're going to go, come what may.

Took the head to get it decked today. Turns out the heads got a wee crack in it that can be fixed. Hopefully that was the only cause of my problems.

Another thing. A while back I did a head gasket and supposedly cracked a head. Paid a small fortune to get it all fixed which included paying for a new head. According to the bloke I took the head too this time it's not a new head at all and whoever did the decking last time did a crap job. Not happy about that.

[checksix]

Bitsa, not sure how someone could judge the previous decking job, so I'd ask them what it is they are seeing to make that comment. If it is an uneven surface then there are other variables that need to be eliminated such as over heating condition or a poor torque process when it was installed, and you were low on fluid and probably did over heat the head. Even when I'm taking a head off I try to reduce the torque evenly across all the bolts. That means getting a quarter to one eighth turn out in the reverse torque pattern until the bolts get a significant loss of torque. Making sure the holes are clean and the bolts properly lubes to retorque during installation is also important. I'm probably a bit anal about it, but I've yet to have to re-install a head because it leaked! Keep us posted!

[Bitsa]

Bitsa, not sure how someone could judge the previous decking job, so I'd ask them what it is they are seeing to make that comment. If it is an uneven surface then there are other variables that need to be eliminated such as over heating condition or a poor torque process when it was installed, and you were low on fluid and probably did over heat the head.............................

He did explain to me why he thought that, but, can't remember exactly what he said, but, he did mention poor torque and heat. He's got 30 years experience and I got 30 seconds, so, I'm inclined to believe him.

As far as overheating goes, how far to drive it is too far ? Never did the gauge indicate overheating.

About a month ago I discovered a leak in the bottom radiator hose. I'd only driven 1k, so, drove the car home, about 2k's all up. That may have been the beginning of the end, but, it was only 2k's. Last week when I noticed milky oil and the water gone from the radiator I'd only driven it about 2k's that time as well, and that was after I'd topped up the coolant that morning. Far enough to overheat ?

I read a bit about taking the head bolts out so I did that right. I'll be a bit anal about it too cause I want to get it right the first time also.

[checksix]

If the water level gets low, there is a chance the gage is now no longer accurate since it might not be in the fluid any longer, so what you are seeing on the gage is not necessarily accurate. Since you warped the head sufficiently for the head gasket to fail (milky oil) we know that it was over heated. Only take a few minutes to do this. Hopefully it hasn't warped enough that it can't be decked back to flatness. Understand, that in removing material you will subsequently raise the compression. The shop doing the work needs to report the amount of material removed. There are head gaskets that are thicker, to make up this shaved off material to keep the CR the same.

There is a lesson to be learned here. If you have a leak you are playing with fire by continuing to drive it. I once helped a friend install a junkyard engine. During that install I noted he had a radiator leak. He said yes, there had been a small leak for some time, and he always kept it full by adding water all the time (probably why the original engine failed). I finished the installation and told him to FIX THAT RADIATOR!! Anyhow, apparently he missed a top off, and his new engine blew a head gasket within a few weeks. He went back to the yard claiming he was sold a defective engine. The yard showed him the melted indicator they had stashed to prove the head was over temped and he was out the money. Then he wanted to know if I'd rebuild it for him. Sure, you got cash and a new radiator Ha Ha!!! I had done the first install as a friend for free, but no way will I do that twice!

[Bitsa]

Having had to wait loooooonger than expected, my cam and gaskets arrived yesterday afternoon so today I can start putting the motor all back together and retire the pushy until further notice.

Hoping someone can help me here as I haven't had to do this sort of thing for a long time.

Having pulled the thing to bits with the timing at TDC, I was able to clean the top of number 1&4 pistons. Numbers 2&3 need a clean too, but, at the moment I'm not game to turn the crank to get those pistons to the top until I find out what's the right thing to do. I don't want to bugger the timing up.

Is it as easy as turning the crank until 2&3 are at the top, clean them, then turn the crank until 1&4 are back at the top ?

Any help appreciated

Trevor