Yay. bout time i got something right this weekend...![]()
yes it definately does, though a good rattle gun it generally wont matter, however if your gun is a supercheap special it will probably be needed.
A little update here. As I can't get a few bits until thursday my aim was just to pull it to bits and check things out. Wanted to see how much if any damage that loose timing chain had done.
The things I've discovered so far are:
I tried 3 things to get that (expletive deleted) nut off the crankshaft. First attempt I used my 3/8" ratchet with a pipe over it wedged onto the subframe. Hit the ignition switch, snapped the ratchet. 2nd attempt went and bought a breaker bar from Gasweld. Had to get a 1/2" as they didn't have a 3/8". Bought a 1/2" to 3/8" thingy so I could attach my 3/8" 19mm socket. Wedged the bar against the subframe cranked it over and snapped the 1/2" to 3/8" thingy. 3rd attempt I went back to Gasweld, bought a 1/2" 19mm socket that fitted straight onto the bar, wedged the bar onto the subframe cranked it over and the nut just came loose. Too easy if you do it right the first time. Moral to that story is, I'm an idiot.
Now I'm in the process off removing the air conditioner. Have discovered that's an impossibility with sockets. Need a 14mm ring spanner. Off to buy one of them now. (expletive deleted) cars.
Ring spanners are the best thing since sliced bread, make sure you get a decent set(one) as cheap ones fuck out easy and need more degree of movment to "rachet" if you get my drift!
RA23 - Twincharged
JZZ20 - Daily
second that- i have a set of sidchrome spanners my father bought before i was born still work better then my brother in laws cheap ones by far...
Ring Spanners? Damn, I had to look it up. Us Yanks would call that a "box wrench", ha ha!! Any how I agree, don't go cheap here, a good set will last a life time (I'm still using my Dad's and some were his Dad's)! I'd also recommend buying the longest ones you can. The real long ones are difficult to find and VERY pricey mine "were" ProtoTools and a combo set with open end on the other end. Stolen from me while I was under a car at the wrecking yard. I only have my half inch left as it was in my hand! The length gives extra leverage. Buy the shorties when needed for space as they are common and easier to get.
Checksix
18RG 59 Bugeye Sprite
I agree. The initial outlay for tools may be out of the comfort zone of a lot of peoples wallets, but, so are mechanics. To do it yourself a decent set of leverage friendly tools is making things as easy as you can for yourself and that's priceless really.
I've eventually got everything pulled to bits and not having done a lot of this sort of thing a few questions beckon.
When I pulled the head bolts out 9 of them had oily oil on the shaft and the other one had dried up oil i.e. the bolt had seen oil before but not for a while by the look of it. Is that a bad thing ?
Another thing is I got the timing cover off the sump by only removing the two front bolts. Problem there is that part of the sump gasket came off with the timing cover. Uhmm. How bad a thing is that ?
Also both my timing guides were broken. Plastic guides ? That's looney bin material. The chain has dug into the timing cover but hasn't gone through it. Dug in about 3 mm. Might have to get another one just to be on the safe side.
That's it, for now.
Any help appreciated
Trevor
you can fit a new sump gasket with the motor in the car, or just smash some silicon in there when you go back together.
my timing cover was grooved as well, didnt bother replacing it.
make sure bolts are clean and threads are clean when u reasemble, and obviously spend an hour or two cleaning up the block.
1983 Toyota Celica Supra
hey champ, listen theres a few tricks you can be and need to be aware of while your doing the work you are...
firstly the sump gasket, what i sometimes do with cork gaskets that break when i pull off the timing cover, is buy a new gasket, and just chop off the front section of the new gasket and use that as a "mini gasket" for the bottom of the timing cover, and use plenty of RTV red silicon, done hundreds like that and never had one leak.. obviously you need to chop the remaining gasket that sticks out from between the block and the sump to be even with the block, and then your good to go!
as far as your head bolts go, dont worry bout the oil on the threads, just make sure you clean them before reusing, also its very important you use compressed air if you can to blow out the threads in the block, because if theres oil in the threads you may be torquing down on compressed oil and you wont torque the head down correctly... also put abit of grease under the head of the bolt so it turns easy when torquing them up
and as mentioned above, make sure you clean the block properly, spend the extra time and do it properly, when you finished and ready to reinstall the head, clean the head and block surfaces with brake parts cleaner as it works great to remove grime and evaporates...
good luck!
Thanks for that men. Tips are priceless too.
When I was taking the head off I failed to disconnect a hose. Had it almost off but one end wouldn't go any further. I left the head tilted on the block meaning unbeknowns to me while undoing the hose oil flowed happily from the head into any hole in the block it could find. Damn, but, I'd cleaned it out the piston hole it fell into yet never gave those bolt holes a thought.
What's the best thing to clean the oil off the motor and wires etc??? There's plenty of it. I want to get it real clean so I can monitor leaks. No doubt the timing cover has leaked for a while.
I'm thinking kero or something similiar.
yeh kero would work fine, i sometimes get a bowl with petrol and a little brush and get busy with cleaning
the sump CAN be removed with the motor in the car, taking it out is another story, you may not have enough clearence between the sump and the crossmember to pull it down and out...
well with my ra65 i got it off and it rested on crossmember, they wont come out unless u lift the motor about 40mm (have done this on a rt142)
I just left it on the crossmember and scooped all the plastic chunks out of the sump.
Then wiped it clean with rags inside
make sure you check the length of the new chain before you put it in. mine was to long and i had to shorten it.
1983 Toyota Celica Supra
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