22re timing chain

[Bitsa]

After being quoted quite possibly more than the car is worth to replace my timing chain I decided I'd have a crack at it myself, but, I've never done anything like it before. Only motors I've ever worked on with any regularity was a thousand years ago on holden red motors. Nothing to them and certainly no timing chain.

Anyway, bought a chain kit from engnbldr.com and some of the instructions with it are making me think twice about having a crack at it myself. Lots of "make sure you don'ts" involved i.e don't tension the tensioner too much, don't install timing gear backwards, yadda yadda yadda.

I imagined it to be a time consuming job, but, was thinking that like most other mechanical things all I had to do was take things off, put the chain on, then put things back the way I found them.

Is it close to being that simple or am I going in over my head here ?

Any help, or instruction, appreciated.


Trevor

[roadsailing]

That's pretty cheap, as a fellow 22RE owner (the RE stands for rattly engine you know) I am planning on doing the timing chain at some stage.

It really depends but if you follow the directions it should be pretty straight forward, take photos of where you took things out from, keep all the bits in glad bags.

Is it a head off job? get someone over to give you a hand if you feel way out of your depth.

[Youngy]

There are a bunch of articles on the net on this:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

that is just one. I think you should have a go at it. Once you get into it, it will make sense.

I have done this twcie now (different motors) and am glad I did.

The metal backed timing chains guides are much better than standard.

[roadsailing]

There are a bunch of articles on the net on this:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

that is just one. I think you should have a go at it. Once you get into it, it will make sense.

I have done this twice now (different motors) and am glad I did.

The metal backed timing chains guides are much better than standard.

Do you have to take off the head? the photos on that site dont show all the steps.

[Youngy]

no you do not have to take off the head. There is a little section of head gasket that follows the head around and allows the timing chain to pass through etc. But you can easily re-seal (bit of gasket goo) the front timing cover to it when you re-assemble.

[roadsailing]

cool, might have to do this on my car, as much as i want the engine to blow so i;m forced to put something interesting in i need it to be mobile for a few more months.

[Bitsa]

(the RE stands for rattly engine you know)

Ain't that the truth.

Thanks for the replies men. I'm going to do it, and I'm going to do it without taking the head off, or at least that's the plan. Ironically, I'll take my time and see what happens.

Thanks again.

[CELICASUPRA7M]

Dont forget the front bolt that goes through the front of the head down into the timing cover.
Dont forget the front bolt that goes through the front of the head down into the timing cover.
Dont forget the front bolt that goes through the front of the head down into the timing cover.
Dont forget the front bolt that goes through the front of the head down into the timing cover.

[wraith]

Dont forget the front bolt that goes through the front of the head down into the timing cover.
Dont forget the front bolt that goes through the front of the head down into the timing cover.
Dont forget the front bolt that goes through the front of the head down into the timing cover.
Dont forget the front bolt that goes through the front of the head down into the timing cover.

This is truth. It will be in a puddle of oil and appear not to exist. Should you ignore it and force the issue, you'll be looking for another timing cover... apart from that, line up the matchmarks and you'll be fine.

[kickstartRA28]

Another way if youre keen/confident and dont need to replace guides or tensioners and have someone to help you, and will save heaps of time, is to join the new chain to the old (hopefully theres a joining link) just by removing rocker cover and wind it through. Do it very slowly couple of links at a time and once the old chain has fed out just join it together.

[Bitsa]

Another way if youre keen/confident and dont need to replace guides or tensioners and have someone to help you, and will save heaps of time, is to join the new chain to the old (hopefully theres a joining link) just by removing rocker cover and wind it through. Do it very slowly couple of links at a time and once the old chain has fed out just join it together.

That sounds almost too simple to be true, but, makes sense. The bottom half of the motor has done 460,000k's. I've no idea if it's ever been worked on so I'm changing the guides and the tensioner. That advice though is something I'll remember for future reference. Thanks.

Thanks for the information about the bolt through the front of the head and the match marks too men. All information is greatly appreciated. I decided to get a cam from engnbldr also and I'm still waiting for that to arrive so I haven't got into it yet. Hopefully the chain will last a little longer.

[Bitsa]

A glich.

Was going to do the timing chain etc this weekend so I cleaned the motor at the local car wash on friday afternoon. As usual the car ran as rough as guts after the high pressure clean so I wasn't too concerned though it did run rougher for longer than it usually does after washing the motor. I reckon I drove 30k's and it was still running like it was running on 3 cylinders. Checked everything to make sure no electrical bits had come adrift and all looked ok. Eventually went home and gave the motor a spray with wd40.

Fixed it, or so I thought.

I started it this morning and it was running as rough as guts again, which it hadn't done before I washed it the day before. Ran rough for about 1 kilometer then was ok. Took the young bloke to rugby where the car sat for about 90 minutes and when I started it again it ran like it was on 3 cylinders for about 20 seconds then was ok. Took 15 minutes to get home and when I got home I turned off the car then turned it straight back on again. No worries. Purred like a kitten.

Fixed this time, or so I thought.

Let it sit for around 4 hours. Started it up and as rough as guts it was again, but, only for about 10 seconds. Since that time every time I start it it runs rough, but only for a very short time i.e. 5 seconds at most.

The thing is now, once that initial roughness is over, the car accelerates like it always has i.e it doesn't miss a beat, but, at idle at the lights etc it's idling like it's got a lumpy cam ( which it hasn't, yet) .

So, the after the motor clean scenario is:

At start up it runs real rough, 2 cylinder rough. After 5 to 10 seconds it will accelerate like nothing is wrong, but, it's idling like something is wrong

I'm confused. I hope you're not.

Any help appreciated, again

Trevor