Sounds like the tap isn't working correctly. I'd be very surprised if the core was totally blocked. They usually leak before that.
Hey all,
Just finished a heater core on a st184 celica. To my dismay there is still only cool air coming out of the vent. Strangely enough one of the hoses going into the heater core is hot yet the other one is still icy cool...
Im suggesting there is a block somewhere in the core/heater tap at the moment.
I will check if its actually getting past the heater tap (by checking the hose just after it)
Any suggestions on the topic?
ZZT-231 Toyota Celica SX
Sounds like the tap isn't working correctly. I'd be very surprised if the core was totally blocked. They usually leak before that.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
there may be air in the heater core. one way is to take off one of the heater hoses, then fill the radiator using a funnel which seals in the spout.
the idea is to get a column of water a bit higher than normal to help push out the air. pour in water ( coolant ? ) until water comes out of the heater. put the hose back on and start 'er up. works wonders.
hope this makes sense.
so much stuff. so little time.
did you reconnect the cable for the cold/hot dial?
its probably full of air, I've had systems take > 30 mins with the engine running before the heater spat out hot air again
I am the sun
me too but only on nissans, fords, commodores, benzes, BMWs....never happened on a toyota for me.Random....
Thanks for the suggestions, it ended up being air in the system.
The first time when I went to switch off the car with the cap off there was a huge burst of air come through,
Then I went to rebleed the system just earlier and there was so many bubbles, ive never seen so much in a toyota before.
I got to the car wash this afternoon and noticed I had left the top radiator hose was loose., I may have to bleed the system again to bring up the heat a bit (its still not quite boiling hot air yet)
Rep to all the great suggestions thank you
ZZT-231 Toyota Celica SX
Over the course of 2 - 3 heat cycles it will purge the air via the overflow bottle.
Generally to get water to flow up and through heater cores the system needs to be pressurized. Ie. the cap needs to be on
I am the sun
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
Heater core replacement 101, before connecting heater hoses back to the engine, use a garden hose to force water into the heater core and expell the air. Then connect all hoses, that is how the radiator repair shops do it.
The humble 1.25 ltre PET softdrink bottle (screws into most radiators) with the arse end cut out is perfect for getting a column of water above any air entrapment points in an engine. Some engines actually have air bleed points near the thermostat, worthwhile checking your repair manual for tid bits like this.
cheers Chuck.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
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