join performance forums, read all technical threads by 'TK' particularly those on porting, re-read.
fwiw: for your first go, i'd suggest port-matching the induction side of the 3sgte head/TVIS/manifold. Forget the polishing bit.
I was wondering what the thoughts of DIY port and polishing are?
I've heard the following points:
- Exhaust side of the exhaust should be polished/mirror finish
- Intake Side of the exhaust should be without any burrs or high spots
- Runners on the intake side should be Knife-edged
Has anyone got any DIY shots/advice?
ZZT-231 Toyota Celica SX
join performance forums, read all technical threads by 'TK' particularly those on porting, re-read.
fwiw: for your first go, i'd suggest port-matching the induction side of the 3sgte head/TVIS/manifold. Forget the polishing bit.
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
Bill: the port-n-polish or not-to-polish lines?
... on the intake side you want a 80-120grit finish - a polish on the exhaust side and combustion chamber is going to give you slightly better heat rejection - and something that you'd only notice if looking for a 1% improvement on an already twitchy engine.
This work is being done to a 5sfe. The guys in America are getting pretty big numbers (for a NA motor) out of 5sfe motors with a decent port/polish and a mild cam. So i'm working towards that sort of set up
ZZT-231 Toyota Celica SX
People just rattle off 'port & polish' without thinking because it's what they've heard. Polishing went out in the 60's for people that know what they're doing with engines.
I don't think it's worth much in the chamber & exhaust port either as they get a nice carbon coating a few seconds after the first start anyway.
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.
For a 4AG... think "bowl clean-up/correction" not really port and polish.
blending the valve seat into the surrounding casting does wonders....
concerning polishing the exhaust side.... I look at it this way... a polished surface here holds less build up then a rougher surface. Ive seen some heavy build up often anchored on a casting flaw.
Information is POWER... learn the facts!!
I'd be looking at swapping a 3S-GE head and cams onto it personally rather than playing around with the 5S head porting and buying cams for it.
^^^ my thoughts exactly, the f series head is designed for economy, the g series head is designed for performance. Why would you bother with a f series head when toyota have already done the hard work for you?
Remember F series . . . economy![]()
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f vs g statements are generally incorrect
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tech moderator
E46 M3 Nürburgring Nordschleife - 8.38
What about the 1uz-fe, It has an "F" head and many consider it a performance engine.
One of the reasons the theory doesn't always hold true.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
Yeah not really interested in the genralisations but the flow numbers I've seen for the *S-GE and *S-FE heads show that the GE heads flow a lot more air. There is also a lot more parts available for them to improve that flow at a cheaper price than the FE heads, plus the 5S exhaust manifold will bolt straight up to a gen 2 3S-GE head.
I don't doubt that the flatter combustion chamber of the FE head could make more power in an all out build but for someone asking about home port jobs I think a bolt on head with significantly better flowing ports and more agressive cams is a simpler solution that will give good results for the effort and money involved.
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