if there the same engine and car swap solenoids they should only have 1 small bolt holding it in then try if its still the same work backwards from there
G'day,
Ive suspected the VVT wasnt working on my track car and after driving my new car around fot the past week (Same everything) i noticed the power differance so when i finished replacing the timing belt today i done a couple of simple tests after doing abit of reading on toymods and i found the following:
1- There is no constant power going to the VVT solenoid
2- With a light bulb connect to the VVT solenoid plug it doesnt light up under accelleration
3- The VVT Pulley is nosiey and it could well be 'the rattle of death'
4- The engine drops rpm at idle if i run power direct to the solenoid, indicating that it is working.
5- The earth signal coming from the ECU just flashes even on acc only
6- Code 21 appears when performing a diaognostics test which is: Open/short in heater circuit of oxygen sensor for 0.5 seconds
Amplitude of O2 sensor reduced to 0.35-0.70V continuously for more than 60 seconds
I done the same tests on my street car and could not fault it so i can swap, test and try some parts out of it as its all the same except for having a A/T ECU.
Any help would be much appreciated!, Thank you.
mUnk"
Last edited by munkey; 04-05-2010 at 08:55 PM.
WTB 15'' Rims
20v AE82 Track Car - WP 1.17.7
20v AE82 Street Car: Going Really Well
Falcon ute, Slippin auto & a worn steerin rack
if there the same engine and car swap solenoids they should only have 1 small bolt holding it in then try if its still the same work backwards from there
are you sure the ECU doesn't earth the VVT pin to turn it on? If so, one wire to it should be IGN-switched power and the other side will go to ground when VVT is enabled.
WTB 15'' Rims
20v AE82 Track Car - WP 1.17.7
20v AE82 Street Car: Going Really Well
Falcon ute, Slippin auto & a worn steerin rack
I don't know the specifics of the 20v motor, but is it possible the engine disables the VVT (which would default to full retard) to protect the engine given it's not getting any o2 info?
That would be the only way the two could be connected I think. (but, of course, they don't have to be connected)
Probably find the issue is with broken wires to the solenoid. Power is generally shared with the injectors to the vvt solenoid.
WTB 15'' Rims
20v AE82 Track Car - WP 1.17.7
20v AE82 Street Car: Going Really Well
Falcon ute, Slippin auto & a worn steerin rack
I found some usefull info:
EFI Main Relay 2, B-R Power supply from switched relay contact to EFI system, Switched terminal on relay #2, on Circuit Open Relay, +B, +B1 & ISC on ECU, ISC Valve, VSV (Parge), VSV (VVT), B on Ox sensor, +B diagnostic terminal, Source of power to all B-R coloured wires in EFI system
I then snooped around the car and stabbed some wires with a test light etc and found a Black with red wire near the ECU and hooked it up to where it was ment to be (or close to) and now the VVT is working and my Ox sensor!, that also cleard the fault codes and everything is fine. Someone had done some sloppy wiring on this conversion..
Thanks for the input guys
mUnk'
WTB 15'' Rims
20v AE82 Track Car - WP 1.17.7
20v AE82 Street Car: Going Really Well
Falcon ute, Slippin auto & a worn steerin rack
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