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Thread: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

  1. #16
    Toymods Events Secretary Too Much Toyota trdee's Avatar
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    so does this make the AE101 rods stronger than the AE92 rods?
    1988 AW11 9A-GTE - Turbo Missile | 2004 Elise K20A - N/A Screamer | 1984 MA61 1JZ-GTE - 80s cruiser
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    .....and the within first laps everything that made the AW11 great hit Rex as if the 'Gods of driving fun' had all Jizzed on his face.....
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  2. #17
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic gixer's Avatar
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    I used Crower rods,

    AE101 ST on left, Crower on right

  3. #18
    Building Corollas Chief Engine Builder Cuzzo's Avatar
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    Remember kids, most of the time the rods exit the block, the cause is stretched or weakened rod bolts. hence why in the argument

    stock vs aftermarket

    stock = stock bolts
    aftermarket = arp rod bolts (apart from the obvious strength differences)

    Oh and if you went stock rods, you will put arp rod bolts in them + shot peen them.
    KE30 4agte - Bullet - Rick Rolled
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  4. #19
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    does someone have the wieght's of the various stock rods? generally speaking i thought good quality forged rods are lighter than their "factory" counter parts.

    there was a discussion somewhere about the weight diff between the 3s rods saving over 100g per rod, tho i'd asume the smaller 4a rods would have smaller weight differences.....

    another reason for lighter rotating components would be to get in the higher rpm quicker so your on boost.

  5. #20
    Toymods Events Secretary Too Much Toyota trdee's Avatar
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    look at OC's post. there is a pic there comparing the weight of an aftermarket H beam rod versus stock bigport/smallport and AE101 rods
    1988 AW11 9A-GTE - Turbo Missile | 2004 Elise K20A - N/A Screamer | 1984 MA61 1JZ-GTE - 80s cruiser
    Quote Originally Posted by Rex_Kelway View Post
    .....and the within first laps everything that made the AW11 great hit Rex as if the 'Gods of driving fun' had all Jizzed on his face.....
    Quote Originally Posted by JustenGT8 View Post
    Mono blocs mate....as close to yours as a Ferrari is to a Fiesta

  6. #21
    anti blasphemy ! Carport Converter
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    stock bottom ends on these things are awesome but there is some weight to be saved.
    most stuff blows up from human error from assembly-tune-maintenance. i was happy to use the stock ae92gze rods but wanted to save some weight so i bought some SPOOL rods. I asked my machinist and he said the quality is good they just need to be checked over and resized/balanced
    .
    with the pistons any forged piston will be good, it all depends on how good your tuner is.
    stock ae101gze pistons are pretty strong.
    i dont have a funny or cool signature.

  7. #22
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    Quote Originally Posted by trdee View Post
    look at OC's post. there is a pic there comparing the weight of an aftermarket H beam rod versus stock bigport/smallport and AE101 rods
    yeh..my bad. the work computer had blocked half his pictures. so looks like the weight saving is substantial same as the 3s rods.

  8. #23
    A warning to all others! Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    Thought I would offer these for your perusal, as the exact same rods don't seem to appear here, though they may be identical to other 4agze rods, plus I have pictures of one of my Pauter 4ag(z)e rods. The link will take you to pictures of my oem AW11 4agze rods, and new Pauter 4ag(z)e rod.
    http://www.carpron.com/multisite/v/U...ter+4age+Rods/

    I've shown pictures of the oem rods by themselves, with cap, and rod bolts; and then one of the new Pauter rods laid on top of an oem 4agze rod for size comparison (center hole lengths and small & big end diameters); and then I also have a lone pictue of one of the new Pauter rods.

    The only thing some might be concerned about, but which I have been told is not really an issue, is that the oem rods have oil squirter holes on one side of the upper big end on each rod, which would normally squirt oil up and onto the cylinder walls, whereas the Pauters do not have these.

    As mentioned with the photos, an oem rod, with cap, and rod bolts weighs 525 grams each, while the Pauter rods, with cap, and rod bolts weighs 487 grams each. The weight savings is not a lot, but as mentioned with the photos, I suppose every little bit helps.

    For overall weight comparisons, I'd have to wonder as to the accuracy of the H rod weight (shown on page #1 of this thread), and wonder if they did not include the weight of the rod bolts, which many manufacturers specs don't seem to include, plus the H rod is shown without them. These alone, would move its weight back up to the same range as the others shown there.
    So long and thanks for all the fish!

  9. #24
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    Quote Originally Posted by Q-Authority View Post
    The only thing some might be concerned about, but which I have been told is not really an issue, is that the oem rods have oil squirter holes on one side of the upper big end on each rod, which would normally squirt oil up and onto the cylinder walls, whereas the Pauters do not have these.
    FYI: pauter offer a small groove in the top edge of the big end so expended oil will squirt upwards at no extra cost. check their website.

  10. #25
    A warning to all others! Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: help to choose forged pistons and rods 4agte

    Quote Originally Posted by jonathan yee View Post
    FYI: pauter offer a small groove in the top edge of the big end so expended oil will squirt upwards at no extra cost. check their website.
    Sorry, I forgot to mention that in my post, as, yes, I am aware of that. If you look at the picture of the one I linked, you can easily see the two grooves they put into the upper shoulders of the big end. Thanks for reminding me, and for bringing it to everyone else's info.
    So long and thanks for all the fish!

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