Car starts then dies after 5 seconds!

[TRDcelica90]

Hi guys im in a massive spot of bother, and 2 of my mechanic mates dont have a clue whats wrong..

After installing a
FMIC
custom manifold
custom dump
garrett turbo
external wasgate with screamer
NTK O2 Sensor
Slimlinerad fan
TRD Thermostat

on my 90 Celica GT-FOUR 3s-gte RC motor im having a lot of trouble keeping it going. I got it all as a kit with the silicone hoses and braided oil lines and everything. i also had to change the thermofan to a slim line and a different O2 sensor wired into my original plug.. I have grounded the WIN pin from the ecu and completed the curcuit for the float sensor for WTA also.. not getting any error codes.

SYMPTOMS: will start up fine, then will kick up to normal cold start idle at around 1-1.5k RPM and idle perfect.. but after 5 or so seconds the idle jumps 100-200RPM then suddenly cuts off, not slowly dies. completely drops revs fast..

BUT if you try to keep it alive you can just, it even cuts out when at say 3000RPM going 70 in 3rd gear. you can drive the car with a lot of heel toe action but as soon as the car is cruising or slowing down its dies. you have to take ur foot off the throttle then jab it until it revs up again to keep it alive. the O2 sensor is brand new.

One of the things that make a difference is when we block off both BOVs (for some reason the setup i got has 2 BOVs.) but even with it blocked and both at the hardest setting it will still die, but it will just delay it for a little while. could be an air leak? but why would it suddenly die? not slowly bog down like a normal air leak?

Air leak= one BOV venting air even with a little amount of revs, Silicone 3" pipe conected to the garretts intake as a 2.75" but clamped down hard. 2.5"silicone connected to a 2.25" throttle body adapter. some old silicone hoses..

Could the AFM detect too much air and shut off the motor??

Now that i dont have the actuator i have ran a vacuum hose from the back of the mani to the wastgate port. All vacuum hoses are in good condition and havent been a prob for me.


Electrically i havent touched much.. before i installed this stuff the car was mint mickey mouse! All plugs, leads, dizzy, rotor are in great condition.

Any questions ask me, any solutions tell me, im desperate and need my car!!

thanks heaps for reading it all, i know its a bit of a headache believe me lol

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Sounds like you have an air leak dude. Lots of joins introduced = lots of possible places.

[TRDcelica90]

yeh thanks mate.. i will get onto that.. ive now just replaced all vacuum hoses, so that is now outta the question.. i think the bovs are the problem, and ofcourse its the "Monza" one not the greddy.. lol

[TRDcelica90]

OK IM GETTING SOMEWHERE

Checked all the silicone hoses and checked all vacuum lines.. all seems alright..

BUT FUEL PUMP!!!

you know how you turn ur key and hear that kinda noise as its priming or whatever it does?? i hear it going as normal then i hear a 2nd noise. its like it depressurises??

Tried to check the fuel pump relay.. how the F*CK can u check the bitch theres 2 clips on the bottom of it.. and how do i check it lol

i just changed the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure reg, but nothing..

[AL510]

stick a fuel pressure guage in the fuel line and it will tell you if you have a prob with the pump.I had a prob in my s13 track car where it was grumpy as to start.checked the fuel pressure and only had about 30 psi even with the return line crimped off.I was at the dyno when we found the problem so i went to repco and got a stock replacement pump which would not quite make 60 psi which was very marginal.so i bought a walbro 255 and it wasnt much better.It turned out to be the resistence in the factory wiring,which was only supplying 10volts. You have to check every thing.

Al.

[blaq.boi]

hey champ, dont knwo if its anyhelp, but when i installed the cooler to my r32 gtst way back when, i forgot to put the radiator hose back on at the bottom.

[TRDcelica90]

LOL radiator hose??? did you start it without coolant?? im pretty sure my car has its rad hose connected

ANYWAY lol... im going to change my fuel pump next weekend so hopefully that will help.. also ordered better silicone to seal up all the possible air leaks..

but any idea what the 2nd noise is after the fuel pump primes??

[wa5]

is it possible that your intercooler is blocked internally? I have heard of it being done.... T shirt in Intercooler, whilst it was being polished.... and not removed when it went back on the car...

Take the pipe off the throttle body and see how she goes...

[JP]

Bridge Fp and +B in the diagnostics block. Then the pump should always run when the ignition is on. That will let you know if the issues coming from the circuit opening relay trigger in the AFM.

[KiwiNig]

Have you checked that the airflow meter is connected? I've had this problem before on a 12A turbo Cosmo. Turned out the airflow meter plug wasn't quite connected.

[pandaah]

+1 for fuel pressure tests.. id be measuring the psi while tryna keep the car alive, also check the vaccuum line to your fuel pressure regulator..

also firstly id be removing both the blow of valves completely... at least eliminate the air leak possibility from the useless little things... useless at least while you cant even idle your car =P

[midnight_purple_GA70]

Bridge Fp and +B in the diagnostics block. Then the pump should always run when the ignition is on. That will let you know if the issues coming from the circuit opening relay trigger in the AFM.

i would be doing this also... will cause the fuel pump to run constant 12v all the time if this solves your problem do the 12v fuel mod...

(i am assuming the gt4 runs a very similar fuel pump ecu setup as the soarers and supras?)

also check for leaks and cracks between the airflow meter and the throttle body... my old 3s-ge celica had a crack in this pipe which cause it to stall regularly... was fine cruising but stopping at lights it would idle low and stall... was in the black flexi hose between air box and trottle body... however as this is a gte i would assume your afm is attached between the filter and the turbo and you then have a whole lot more piping to check for leaks...

[TRDcelica90]

Yeh i tried constant run and the bloody car stalled out again.. would've given me a good excuse to put in my walbro.

i know i may have an induction leak at the turbo because i had to buy an extra long piece of silicone and they only had 3" and the intake of the garrett is 2.75"

im gonna put on a 2.75" silicone and try squeeze my 3" over it.. what kinda lube can i use to help?? ill try brake cleaner coz i know you can use it in ur turbo.. im thinking out loud lol

[thechuckster]

thin film of engine oil would be fine. brake cleaner is not a lubricant

[Twisty92]

I usually use silicone spray seems to dry fairly quick afterwards
Food for thought....Knock sensor?
You could try getting a air to fuel ratio reading.