Open-ended budget 4AGE build - with some restrictions

[TERRA Operative]

To add to oldeskewltoy's list, a reshaping of the combustion chamber to TRD spec for good measure.

Also, for longevity, get two sets of main and rod bearings. Match up the bearing halves with the groove in them so the oil can circulate all the way around the bearings.
Also, on the exhaust side of the head, there are thin holes drilled for the water galleries. Enlarge these with a 4mm or so drill bit to increase water flow around that area.
For the valve stem seals, use genuine exhaust seals for the intake as well. They're Viton on the exhaust but only rubber for the intake. Using the harder wearing and higher temp rated Viton all round is only a good thing.
Then do the shimless bucket conversion while you're at it to lighten the valve train.
Oh, and use the 20V oil pump. They're better than the early ones IIRC.

Basic stuff, but worth doing IMHO.

[knightrous]

I feel the OP question is a bit difficult to answer.

You want 200kws but no turbo and no twinscrew charges?

I believe he said no twincharging, twinscrew sc is still in

[eeeyan]

Some of the questions might be easier answered if we knew which "class restrictions" your speaking of? Did i miss this information?

I would have thought turbo over supercharger for reliable power in this range.

As for 50 thousand kays of race condition reliability... good luck with that.

[oldcorollas]

main reason to go with SC would be if for motorkhana or tight hillclimb.... = no real class restrictions?

for 50K budget, definitely include drysump...

EW? FWD or MR2, or rear engine hillclimber?

[eeeyan]

Old rollas he didnt say 50K budget he said "open ended budget (within reason ie NOT $50K)

[oldcorollas]

well thats a contradiction

as if you wouldn't put on a dry sump if you were serious abotu roundy roundy stuff, especially for east west mounted engine..
seems odd to specify a bigport head.. unless that is a class restriction...

[the_random_hero]

I feel the OP question is a bit difficult to answer.

You want 200kws but no turbo and no twinscrew charges?

Does it have to be a 4age or a 1.6L?

Also reving the motor at 4000 - 7000rpm for 50,000kms could be a problem for the motor.

I never said no twinscrew - it is actually the exact way I'm planning on going. 50k kms may have been a bit of an over-statement, but I don't exactly want an engine that's going to need a rebuild after every pass. 7k is less than stock rev limit AFAIK so I don't see why a rebuilt and well maintained engine couldn't last a fair bit at these rpm's.

i don't think it would be a problem.. definitly nothing toyota issue in the bottom end aside from the crank, oil pump..

everything else i would go aftermarket, the stock stuff MIGHT get away with it.. as it is only 7k.. but i wouldn't risk it..

again stock over bucket shims may well and truly last.. but i wouldn't risk it.. i would use underbucket shims..

if you want a bit of a run down, from a guy who has built almost everything from hi powered daily SR/CA/3S/4E, to 800hp RB's... and many many many NA SBC, clevo etc etc making over 700hp on pump fuel in streeters..

Kohen - KJ Motor Machining (same unit as Extreme Custom Engineering)

0403 748 607
Unit 2 - 142 Beatty Rd Archerfeild..

he will be able to give you a quote and some idea's for the engine itself, and porting/head work/cams etc etc...

if you go and see him in person you can talk to Craig about doing the pipework/cooler, custom tuned length extractors, cage, ally radiator etc etc etc all of which you might be interested in for this project of yours...

I'm actually mates with Craig - however I am also a fabricator I've already made a 'temporary' set of extractors for myself (which are currently going onto my mates AE82 hillclimb car). I was looking at getting a bare GZE block and building it from the ground up.

To add to oldeskewltoy's list, a reshaping of the combustion chamber to TRD spec for good measure.

Also, for longevity, get two sets of main and rod bearings. Match up the bearing halves with the groove in them so the oil can circulate all the way around the bearings.
Also, on the exhaust side of the head, there are thin holes drilled for the water galleries. Enlarge these with a 4mm or so drill bit to increase water flow around that area.
For the valve stem seals, use genuine exhaust seals for the intake as well. They're Viton on the exhaust but only rubber for the intake. Using the harder wearing and higher temp rated Viton all round is only a good thing.
Then do the shimless bucket conversion while you're at it to lighten the valve train.
Oh, and use the 20V oil pump. They're better than the early ones IIRC.

Basic stuff, but worth doing IMHO.

This is the exact reason I wanted this thread - little hints like that which I wouldn't have known otherwise I've also heard about relocating one of the oil sprayers (which came from somebody who used to be fairly well known for 4AGE's but now has a bad, bad reputation), I'm yet to see any real 'proof' that it's a huge upgrade.

main reason to go with SC would be if for motorkhana or tight hillclimb.... = no real class restrictions?

for 50K budget, definitely include drysump...

EW? FWD or MR2, or rear engine hillclimber?

AW11. Was planning on dry sump

well thats a contradiction

as if you wouldn't put on a dry sump if you were serious abotu roundy roundy stuff, especially for east west mounted engine..
seems odd to specify a bigport head.. unless that is a class restriction...

Honestly, I'd rather spend the same on a decently modified bigport head than on a less modified 20V head. I want as much simplicity as possible as I'm hoping to be able to put most of the engine together myself.

[Mr_Flawless]

after market ecu, Full CDi Ignition. full built bottom end (Rods, ceramic coated pistons, etc), 20V head with the works(springs, valves etc), quad throttle bodys (rebalanced) big cams and adjustable cam gears(without going overboard), Custom headers 4 into 1, 2.5 - 3" exhaust, custom inlet plenum with 10- 15cm log ram tubes to meet the throttle bodys, big fuel system, water to air intercooler, and a rotrex or HKS supercharger (hks preferably) Full dry sump setup, crank case vacume pump, umm umm..........

could think of more but i lack the mental capacity today to be bothered

[the_random_hero]

I should also add in that I am running an Adaptronic e1280, with some sort of cam trigger system and LS1 coils (mate is running similar system on his 3SGTE with a dickload of boost and no issues yet).
I would like to run around 9.5-10:1 comp and 20-25psi of boost, should be extremely responsive (especially if I go the quads and short intake manifold route). As much as possible is getting ceramic/teflon/whatever coated as I get it done for next to nothing

[feral4mr2]

that's one big bypass valve you'll need running quads after the s/c at high boost. (if you go quads that is..)

[oldcorollas]

what sort of cost for a custom twinscrew that can do 3:1 pressure ratio?

[oldeskewltoy]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=GB&h...&v=sPIaXDlExaE - 200rkw using a silvertop 20V, a rotrex S/C, long tube headers, and not much else

[the_random_hero]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=GB&h...&v=sPIaXDlExaE - 200rkw using a silvertop 20V, a rotrex S/C, long tube headers, and not much else

Om nom nom nom, delicious! Sounds exactly like my friends centrifugally charged S2000, currently making about 350rwhp @ 9500rpm on around 7psi of boost (only thing aftermarket is accessories to fit blower, ECU and headers).
I can't see those headers being too conducive to FI gas flow, maybe if it was just NA then they'd work much better. I'd rather something about half that length, then split into two 2" runners that finally flow into a 3" system. Unfortunately there's much less room on my car, but I'm sure I'll figure something out.

[mattysshop]

is your mate with the honda brad? VTEC plates on a blue S2000?

i thought you might know craig, i think i've dropped into your work with him a few times when i've been helping him out..

[TERRA Operative]

I know that Honda. Seen it at a few JDM meets around the place.