GZE not making Boost

[dallaske55]

HI all,

As the title says, I have a 4agze, Its in a Ke55, I'm running a FMIC, Microtech ECU, and the Pulley is hooked up to a switch, via a relay and I have completed the ABV Mod. When the motor was out of the car, I played with the SC and it sucked and pushed air through.

When I start the engine the Boost gauge runs at 20 In.Hg. When I flick the switch you can see the Clutch pop in, it spins faster BUT when you rev it, the gauge doesn't move.

I've disconneded the Gauge and blown air through, and it shows pressure. The Silicone bends and clamps are new and tight.

Any Ideas??

Thanks

[Casey-G]

I know i already answered on TC.org


Been thinking about it though,


Since you've said that there isn't much change in noise from the engine bay when revving it, it almost rules out a manifold leak.

So with that being said it basically leaves 3 things that could be faulty:

A - The SC relay is dead and needs testing/checking/replacing.

B - The SC clutch needs re-gapping back to OEM clearances (i have the clearances on a piece of paper somewhere) this will require you to use feeler gauges.

C - The SC12 itself has become to hot at one stage and has melted the Teflon coating on the rotor lobes. I believe there is a repair/rebuild kit available from toyota but thats a long road....




time for turbo?

[TERRA Operative]

The clutch pops in, so the relay is good.

Worn clutch is possible

The charger will still pump air even if the Teflon is stuffed, just the clearances will be too big, so the boost level wont be where it should be.


Check B as above, then as on TC.org, check for leak or obstruction in the pipes. (Particularly the intercooler).

Can you post some pics of your setup?

[dallaske55]

Thanks for the idea's guys! I'll check the Clutch, but, Im leaning towards the SC is cactus. The reason being the boost gauge does not move regardless if the SC is engaged or not.

Engine conversions were not ment to be easy

Here's the setup

[Casey-G]

Thanks for the idea's guys! I'll check the Clutch, but, Im leaning towards the SC is cactus. The reason being the boost gauge does not move regardless if the SC is engaged or not.

Engine conversions were not ment to be easy

Here's the setup

If it was dead you would still see a slight change in manifold pressure/vacuum though.



Edit: just saw your engine bay setup, that charger would have been working its tits off with the size of that front mount... Pod isnt in an ideal location either, if you fix this small issue with the SC engagement i would invest in a decent CAI system.

[fixeruperer]

was it working before the abv mod ?
have you always had the guage and where have you tee'd in to the system. ?
how does it drive ?



if ya blower is buggerd, being rwd, take advantage of that, and fit the sc14 blower.


engage the blower and draw a line on the outer pulley and clutch (if its ae92, if its ae101 take the cover off the pulley and mark it ) as its engaged, it shouldnt move . if the clutch its rooted, the lines will move apart.

[dallaske55]

was it working before the abv mod ? Yes

have you always had the guage and where have you tee'd in to the system. ? Yes, see the attached pic.

how does it drive ? Only driven it once, up and down the street. The car is in pieces at the moment, but it drove and ran perfectly. BUT I didn't take notice of the boost gauge. If i have time I'll take it out this weekend.

SC14 would be cool, but i was assured from the fella i bought the engine from - I work with him - that the SC works

I'll be testing for clutch slip also this weekend

Thanks for the ideas

[oldcorollas]

will boost even register on a gauge when being free-revved?
wouldn't you effectively need to WOT it when free-revving to see any boost?

[Casey-G]

thats exactly what i've been thinkin, even without boost the manifold pressure/vacuum would change, you would need to give it i pretty decent rev to get it to boost.

[fixeruperer]

yeh, you should see a few psi free revving it, i think mine was around 5psi when free revving but that was WOT.


if you drove it and it was ok, id say its fine. (you know if its not working, unless you've only every driven a bmx)

[TERRA Operative]

As above. The TB is before the charger, so it will produce boost while free revving.

Can you try another boost gauge?

[dallaske55]

Hi all,

I had a chat with a fella at work - an ex-engineer and car finatic. He thought it could be a problem with the ABV. I've added some pics below. Basically he thought because the outlet pipe is soo large 3" and the intercooler is much larger than stock, (the amount of volume that needs to be pressurised) is too large for the SC12 to overcome vacuum - therefore the ABV will constantly stay open. SO, I shut off the ABV (with a piece of aluminium and bolted the ABV back on) and took it for a drive today and ... ... it made boost!

I didn't think of this as this is the original setup and the guy I bought the car off of said that it made boost.

So, now I have to work out how to remedy this problem so the ABV can work properly. I don't want to keep the SC on all the time.

5lovegtz, it was blowing a bit of smoke today. Another problem to overcome. I might have to set up the ECU to look after the SC. Another thing to try and work out.

Thanks for the patients and help all!

[Casey-G]

abv is not needed, the clutch on the supercharger will control it if its on or off.
Its a popular mod to remove it to squeeze another unit out of the charger once over the stock boost levels as they leak somewhat over 10psi.


Why oh why do you have such a large charger outlet and piping? it could be made so much more responsive if you took it back to 2-2&1/4" piping.

[TERRA Operative]

Only problem with removing the ABV, is the supercharger becomes a restriction when it's turned off. The ABV opens to allow air through.

The outlet pipe it a bit too big I agree, It's not that long, but with the intercooler and rest of the intake track, it ends up being a fair bit to pressurise before you will see boost.
I would go with 2 1/4 inch piping as mentioned above, and also make sure you're not loosing boost between that flange and the charger. It looks like it's only held on at three corners (the stock outlet uses 5 bolts).

Apart from that, nice setup though.

[dallaske55]

Yeh - I don't want to get rid of the ABV, I want it working properly.

As for the outlet pipe - this is how it was setup when I bought the motor. So I thought it would be ok - Obviously not. Looks like I'll have to make a new SC outlet and pipe to IC, and hopefully everything will be sweet.

Thanks for the help all - Off to fabricate a new outlet.