Few 1G-GE problems - Cooling system/ general maintenance related

[dish-oh]

Hi guys,
I recently got a 1gge and at the moment I'm just looking to get it running right. Bit of a long read but i figure it's better than making numerous threads. I would REALLY appreciate and help/ words of wisdom

At the moment it has a collection of little problems with it, that could mean something serious, or could just be a lot of little problems.

Basically, there is some oil around the plugs, from memory it is not pools of it or anything, but enough to take notice. On start up, when cold, it blows a little puff of smoke, but not when warm/ 20 seconds later. I've been told it could be valve seals but I'll worry about that later.

It also has a bit of a rough idle for the first <5 seconds, hasn't continued for over 4 seconds to date, but i read a thread on this site where a few other people had this with 1g (although the gte models) and considered it to be normal...runs like a champ after the first 4 seconds.

The water in the radiator and overflow is FILTHY, very rusty and apparently it overheated on a 45 degree day and the temp gauge climbed to 3/4. I'd be quite confident in saying it is clogged, but in saying that, it did drive home for 1 hour in 30+ degree heat in stop start traffic with the temp gauge sitting just over halfway.

I did a TEE-KAY head check on it twice (as the first time i sucked up some rad water - changed for 2nd time) and couldn't notice any discernible colour difference, but then again it was the first time i had done one so wasn't sure if the whole container of fluid would change colour/ how obvious it would be?

There is no visible coolant in the oil or vice versa.
Another thing i noticed today as i finally got under the car, was that there is a fair bit of oil on the bottom of the sump/ trans, looks like a seal or something has been leaking.

My plan of action is to change oil/ air/ fuel filters, oil, flush radiator, change plugs, clean ISCV and TB, clean engine exterior and around plugs and then drive it for a bit and see what happens next, does that sound like the way to go?

I am a complete noob (with a lot of things ) but also flushing radiators, I've had a search, is there any guides on how to floating around? No idea on how to go about it.

and finally, any thoughts on what products i should use for each of the following:
Oil - magnatec 10w40?
air filter?
fuel filter?
oil filter - ryco z419?
plugs - NGK BCPR 6EY11 or ND Q20 R-U11
Coolant - most here seem to recommend Toyota genuine red, probably go with that.

Thanks for ANY help guys. Just need to keep this car running for my final year of uni

[ddeane]

If possible use a genuine Toyota oil filter. Can't recall the number but your dealer can supply a 1G filter - it will be marked on the box and is the same as one of the Camry filters.

Craig

[rob]

Basically, there is some oil around the plugs, from memory it is not pools of it or anything, but enough to take notice.

check that the cam covers are on tight those screws like to work loose and the oil runs into the spark plug valley, also check the cam cover seals.

On start up, when cold, it blows a little puff of smoke, but not when warm/ 20 seconds later. I've been told it could be valve seals but I'll worry about that later.

valve stem seals, nothing to be too concerned about, if you can live with it.

The water in the radiator and overflow is FILTHY, very rusty and apparently it overheated on a 45 degree day and the temp gauge climbed to 3/4. I'd be quite confident in saying it is clogged, but in saying that, it did drive home for 1 hour in 30+ degree heat in stop start traffic with the temp gauge sitting just over halfway.

pull the radiator out and flush it or throw it away and buy a new one, dont continue to run that crap water in the engine. also flush the engine and replace with genuine toyota red coolant.

There is no visible coolant in the oil or vice versa.
Another thing i noticed today as i finally got under the car, was that there is a fair bit of oil on the bottom of the sump/ trans, looks like a seal or something has been leaking.

most likely the rear main crank seal needs replacing

air filter if its standard will be the same as a 7M-GE cressida
and you dont have to use a genuine toyota oil filter i never did when i had a 1G-GE and never had any issue

[ddeane]

I really do not want to go over something that has been discussed heaps before, do a search of these forums. There are lots of reasons to use a genuine filter and even more reasons to avoid the use of a non genuine filter, especially for a toyota.

But make your own decisions after you have researched the issue. I am not one to waste $ AND for that reason I would not consider using a non genuine filter.

Cheers Craig

[dish-oh]

Thanks for the replies guys, will investigate a genuine filter today.

As far as the radiator went and driving it, the 1 hour drive was only to get it back to my place, haven't been driving it since.

Another thing i just remembered, is with the ISCV and TB clean, some people have mentioned using gaskets when putting it back together, others mentioned just using silicon spray or something along those lines, most threads give good instructions on how to clean it, but not this part. Any ideas on what to use?

Finally, is just cheap castrol magnatec oil fine to use with this engine? Any real benefits in going with something more expensive/ different viscosity?

btw, is the oil filter as much of a bitch as it looks like to change?

[big_zop]

Hey dish-o,

Like I said on Toyotacressida.net, best place to look up part numbers is www.toyodiy.com - i have found that sometimes the pictures show up since they have been taken down, usually at night so if the description isnt enough for you then wait for the pics (and save them for later reference!). The numbers are usually pretty good, and even if the number has been superceeded then they can look up to find the up to date one.

But I finally got a chance to have a look at the service items you wanted.
OIl Filter - 90915-YZZD2 $17.70 (same for all 1G, *M, *MZ, *VZ, 22R, *JZ, 2TZ-FT, 3S-GTE - ST165 only)
Fuel Filter - 23300-79206 $97 (use factory as I found generic ones didnt suit my car)
Air Filter - 17801-70020 (same as all MX83 Cressidas)
Plugs - are different to what you listed: NGK BCPR6EP11 or ND PQ20R (gap 1.0-1.1mm, max 1.3mm)
Coolant - definitely Toyota red, just flush it out before and put in a new thermostat and gasket (90916-03063 $25.70 & 16325-63010 $8.80)
Oil - no harm in trying Magnatec, but you may find that with an old engine it may not be thick enough, so try a 20W-50 at the next oil change

When going in for parts, also take the model and frame number from your build plate as they can use that to make sure the parts suit your car.

Hope that helps, Paul

ps - did I send you those manuals yet?

[dish-oh]

Thanks zop, nah didnt send me the manuals, but i got some off another member from here from this thread http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56407 not sure if yours are the same.

Air filters are $50 from repco...lol

How do you know if an oil is too thin for your engine? are there any tell tale signs/ sounds?

As for the plugs, the difference between the NGK BCPR6EP11 (what is currently in the car) and BCPR6EY11 (what the service book says) is that the one with p in it is platinum, and $20 more expensive per plug so at this stage I'm inclined to just use the cheaper 'Y' plugs and even if i have to change them twice during this year (only intend on keeping this engine for a year) they will still be cheaper. Having said that, i haven't had a chance to search for threads discussing the differences between platinum/ non platinum myself, but i can't really see it being $20 worth of difference per plug when I'm only keeping the engine for a relatively short while.

Thanks for those numbers and info, I'll head into toyota this arvo and double check some prices etc.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Just use the regular plugs and change them every 10-15000km.

[dish-oh]

I only do around 12000klms a year so that sounds pretty well perfect.

[dish-oh]

Went into toyota this arvo, guy gave me an 'updated' price list....(in red)

OIl Filter - 90915-YZZD2 $17.70 $21
Fuel Filter - 23300-79206 $97 $115
Air Filter - 17801-70020 $45
thermostat - 90916-03063 $25.70 $31
gasket - 16325-63010 $8.80 $11

Thanks for your help guys, I'll get around to changing the above this week + clean around the plugs + tighten any loose screws and see what happens.

[the_random_hero]

What. The. Fuck. 'sif you would pay over $100 for a godamn fuel filter.

[dish-oh]

I haven't yet.

Care to enlighten me on your opinions?

Is it expensive because it's for a 1G or because it's from toyota?

Not sure on what other branded ones would fit a 1G so cant really compare prices either.

[the_random_hero]

To put it into perspective, I have a 'rare' fuel filter and a Ryco one costs me $40.

[dish-oh]

Fair enough, I wasn't going to change the fuel filter immediately for that very reason anyway (price), but i guess now if anyone has a model number for a ryco/ other brand one for 1G-GE I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I'll go rip mine apart and see what it is.

Big Zop, what did you find not quite right about non-genuine f/filters in your car? The physical dimensions of it or how it fit, or was it more so it's function? Also if your manuals are in english i would still appreciate them.

Also where is the fuel filter on a 1g?

[big_zop]

I found that one of the threads was larger than the other on the Ryco, not the same size like my original.

Since I didnt want to muck around with adaptors, i went genuine. And if its anything like my 1G-GZE, it will be under the intake manifold near the oil filter.

And yes, its a pain to do but once you get the hang of it and get one of those oil filter removal tools (the proper jaw type ones, not the chain or strap ones) then you will have no problems. The first time I did mine, it took me a whole day to it. Had issues with almost everything:
- oil & filter - filter got stuck and went through multiple methods of removal till i finally cracked and bought a kinchrome tool for ~$35, best thing ever!
- fuel filter - mucking around with the wrong threads and having to put it the original back on
- and spark plugs - not hard to do and gave me a break from lying on my back - just so much stuff to remove compared to my first car, a Charde.

Now I can do it in under an hour including jacking the car up to get access to the filters. You live and you learn.



And the_random_hero, it doesnt look like you have owned a 1G nor have you gone to Toyota for parts. There are reasons why some people buy from Toyota and its not just for price. LIke your sig says, what you say is your opinion but sometime they are best kept to yourself if you dont have anything contructive to say.