check them first![]()
I'm trying to figure out a problem on my st184 celica (5sfe motor).
Whenever I go to release the clutch I can feel the whole car shake unless I try slip the clutch a bit more.
I'm thinking its either a contaminated flywheel or a damaged engine mount.
Any suggestions on my problem please?
ZZT-231 Toyota Celica SX
check them first![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Definitley check your mounts otherwise it could be faulty clutch, flywheel need machine or all of the above. How old is the clutch?
3TGTE might be old but it can still hammer along.
its not your engine mounts.. they dont cause shaking like that they usually give a big "DONK" sorta noise...
i bet if you get the clutch out the friction springs in the clutch plate will be loose and worn out, thats your problem, the clutch isnt giving any give when it bites and its shaking its ass off...
when the clutch is out, make sure you skim your flywheel.. as its a MUST do when replacing an old clutch plate
nah, its nothing to do with the "friction spring"
the flywheel is warped or to put it another way it has high spots and low spots, usually caused by slipoing it too much and over heating it.
this i why your getting the shudder.
solution, flywheel machine or replace, replace clutch disc and pressure plate, throw out bearing, spigot bearing and rear main seal while your in there.
1983 Toyota Celica Supra
high and low spots usually cause slipping more than shuddering from what ive seen at work, worn out springs in the clutch usually are the cause of shuddering
that IS what those springs are for, to stop the shock of the clutch biting going thru the gearbox, easing it in, springs not working, worn or faulty = most common causing of a shuddering clutch....
take it out, bet you the springs are f**ked.....
I would have said the flywheel needed machining, but if you gotta pull it all apart why not replace what you can. Saves pulling it out later. Fixing one area usually causes the weaker areas to become more susceptible to breaking too.
this is true, pull it down and i bet the clutch plate is badly worn and the cushioning springs either fallen out or loose in their housings.
but if youre gonna go that far, as said you may as well face flywheel, check and replace throwout bearing+housing and anything else that needs it.
cushioning springs is a better name than what i called them lol.... i just call them springs in the clutch and everyone at work knows what im talking bout lol
as everyone said its springs had the same issue in my escort springs were very loose replaced plate few months ago all is good
1992 - JZA70 STOCK - SOLD
those "high and low spots" are usually non-uniform transfer of friction material from clutch to flywheel/pressureplate.. same deal as "warped" brake rotors...
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
in my ke25, same thing happens.
temporary solution: hold the car on a slight hill in second or third, riding the clutch like a mofo.
car won't move up the hill, and it will heat up any shit (oil and clutch dust) and burn it off.
After a manouevre like this, my clutch stays smooth for a few days, then i usually have to do it again.
I suspect a slow rear main seal leak which is making the flywheel surface gummy.
I might be totally wrong, but this works for me.
At some stage i will fix it, but for the moment i can live with it.
Best of luck
Dave
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