eagle rods? lol, theyre no better than the oem ones youre starting with. certainly dont weight any less either. chinese forged crap made out of recycled hospital bed-pans. only reason id ever buy eagle rods were if i just plain old didnt have any rods, and was builing a tough, slightly higher output over stock, streeter engine. either that or was building a cheapo semi disposable race engine
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tech moderator
E46 M3 Nürburgring Nordschleife - 8.38
i agree that the eagle's arent the best forged rods out there, hence the reason i'd chosen pauter's X beam's for my eng.
however i disagree that there no better than the stock rods. they're lighter than puater and carrillo H beams so i'd be pretty confident saying that they're lighter than stock 3s rods.
i heard they had some problems in tha past but i've plenty of people have since used them in their motors with highish HP without problems.
In saying that, from my own experiences i wouldnt rate an eagle rod much worse then a very well known overpriced aussie rod manufacturer either.
On a 3S eagle rods are some 200g lighter per rod...somewhat significant.
"If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
My ST185 with 278awkw (2.2L is running...)
1:08.08s @ Wakefield 1:37.29s @ Winton
27.90s @ Esses Hillclimb
the eagles ive played with were only about 30-40 grms lighter per rod, not worth the argument in that case. 200grams lighter? per rod? hmmm, i dunno man. its a 143mm conrod? what could the oem one possibly weigh? 600grams? i really doubt eagle made it 400grams? my small journal, mega buck lentz rods weigh about 490grams...
as for the stock rods, 2jz rods anyone? bosst and rev the piss out of them and you dont see many blocks chucking rods. 7m rods - they tended to simply fail from the rods bolts.
for the kind of application i would consider putting eagles in, i'd be happy to put a set of prepped toyo forged rods with good bolts.
just my 2c
cheers
ed
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tech moderator
E46 M3 Nürburgring Nordschleife - 8.38
At the end of the day, bang for buck the eagles arent that bad in my opinion.
Whats the cost for stock style rods to be resized, rebushed, ARP'd, balanced, polished and peened by a machine shop?
My guess is fairly close if not more then a set of eagles, I know for certain which one id be choosing.
But yea, if it was a JZ, why bother in the first place?
the eagles i got were ~580g when i weighed them (can't remember now) stock rods are supposedly ~770g, but i haven't weighed one myself, and they are ~138mm rod
I do know that my eagle rods, CP piston, pins and rings were 298g lighter than the stock parts. 1025g vs 1323g
3SGTE rods are just heavy farkers! But they are very strong.
I am happy to trade a small amount of strength (if they are indeed weaker than stock) to save 200g per rod, which is the only reason i bought them because stockers are certainly strong enough for what i want.
"If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
My ST185 with 278awkw (2.2L is running...)
1:08.08s @ Wakefield 1:37.29s @ Winton
27.90s @ Esses Hillclimb
yeah if thats youre situation, and the work on the rods you want to do will cost more, then sure, buy the eagles. but if the difference was $500 id stick with what ive got.
and agree that eagles arent that bad. but theyre nothing flash. theyre a cheap forged rod. if you were building an engine that needed *good* rods, i wouldnt touch eagles with a stick.
also agree that by comparison, some aussie rodsreally dont offer anything more, and cost a plenty amount extra
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tech moderator
E46 M3 Nürburgring Nordschleife - 8.38
roundy, id be interested in the breakdown figures on those weight savingseither way though, 300grams in toal is a huge chunk. i cant remember the toal moss i took off, but its was about 25%
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tech moderator
E46 M3 Nürburgring Nordschleife - 8.38
I was going through this dilemma about my high HP 3S build which is nearly done and after speaking to different people you are dumbfounded with all the info for ya or na but research has bought me to the conclusion that Stock rods if forged are as good if not better than cheap one's and once linished , peend and balanced are very close to the highest quality after-market rods available only difference is in the weight. I have decided to stick with the Stock Rods for my build as strength and cost are a priority, Weight well I just changed to a high quality flywheel and Harmonic balancer and saved 6kg and saved $800.00
Cheers
Daniel
I don't think i will be able too, i have already installed the piston and pins onto the rod, and buggered if i know how to pull it all back apart with the circlips LOL
But from some data i have seen on the net, the rods are about 200g or maybe a bit more, the pin is ~30g lighter, so the piston should be 70 odd grams lighter.
I did weigh them all to check if the weight matched, all the pins, pistons and rods were identical to each other, except 1 rod was 1g heavier than the rest...but once i assembled them all they all weighed the same to the gram, so probably some rounding going on there with the scales.
"If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
My ST185 with 278awkw (2.2L is running...)
1:08.08s @ Wakefield 1:37.29s @ Winton
27.90s @ Esses Hillclimb
For this situation with custom pistons and potential for custom rods in a destroked engine I'd say for sure get the custom rods made but only if you are going to go for a significantly longer rod with the relevant changes to the piston pin height so you can improve on the rod to stroke ratio.
If you're going to go with stock length rods then the only advantages would be weight, potentially cost and maybe piece of mind knowing they're brand new bits getting thrashed in the engine.
yes but that weight saving (from flywheel) doesnt help/affect the stresses put on your crank and bearings unlike getting lighter rods and pistons.
but it all really come down to what HP you wanna make at what RPM.
i'm under the impression that if you made 300rwkw@6000 rpm the eng/crank etc would be under a crap load less stress than on one making 300rwkw @8000rpm.
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