what spark plugs are you running, only way to reduce noise in the ignition system is to use resister type plugs...
for example if there ngk plugs they will be like this .. bkR5e .. <-- R meaning its a resister type plug
So I've got this thing in time, firing and all hooked up.
But the bastard now will start to 'go' but then REALLY quickly (like 0.5seconds) after it starts, it frontfires and dies.
Now what the hell would be causing that.
I've individually pulled out coil packs to see if it was one particular pair doing it, but it made no difference, it happens either which way.
SO I figured maybe it's the ignition coils causing noise in the electrical system.
What would i use to 'supress' the noise?
what spark plugs are you running, only way to reduce noise in the ignition system is to use resister type plugs...
for example if there ngk plugs they will be like this .. bkR5e .. <-- R meaning its a resister type plug
Hrm
They are the stock 1uz ones, I have'nt looked for the 'R', but I do think from memory it does have it.
Can't figure out why this bastard will start then backfire.
Check your timing first up sounds like somethings gonna astray (camtiming or ignition timing)
Well the cam timing hasn't moved because I've not taken it off (and I checked)
and the ignition timing I've been checking over and over and it seems right, so I just can't figure it out.
Check each cylinders timing.
What you can do is put the timing light on each cylinder and look for a constant angle on the crank pulley.
It might be the CAS.
Yeah, I'm gonna give that a crack now, thanks mate.
THing is, it's a completely custom CAS that I've had built, so do know exactly what's inside it. That said, it could be something untoward about it.
why would you need a custom cas?
Because the reluctor setups on toyota engines I've found to be unreliable and they do not interface at all well my ECU. However Hall effect ones normally do. (have had great luck until now.)
sounds like thats a great place to start anyways, ill tell you something that happened at work...
i had this crank angle sensor leaking on this suzuki baleno so i took it out, cleaned the area and put a slight o-ring in there cos it looked like it had the place for an o-ring to fit... put it in, car wouldnt start, took the o-ring out, car started straight away....
so maybe take yours out, clean it, make sure theres no debree in the way... and see how you go
I think your right on the gap
I think the gap might be 0.5mm too big.
Sounds ghey, but that's the range these things work in.
yeh fucking oath man... even if its out 1mm it wont work... bugger of a thing
Which ECU?
It does sounds like a triggering setup problem.
Is it a Haltech?
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