W5x clutch pedal issues/Slave issues?

[Admiral coFF33]

i have a problem with it that i cannot figure out.
Just completed install of 1GGTE + W55 into my MZ11,
I filled the master and bled the air out (took 10 mins)
Problem:
The clutch pedal is around 10cm from the floor instead of the usual 15 - 20cm and when compressed completely the slave only JUST touches/moves the fork on the box. It works, but you need to push it into the floor as hard as possible and if you lift it even 3mm the clutch will engage and the car will move.

Does anyone know what can cause this ?? ive looked at the back of the pedal where it has the pin and lock pin and there is a 12mm lock nut on the back of this which appears to be on thread,

i loosened the lock nut , but cannot comprehend how to adjust the pedal to be more than 10ish cm from the floor.
Also , why does the slave only push out a tiny bit ? would it be the issue im having with the pedal causing this ?


Helps?

[assassin10000]

Once the nut is loose you spin the threaded shaft to adjust the pedal position.

Andrew

[madmont]

Can you pull the pedal back to its original position?

[CrUZida]

As above, try to pull it out further.
If you can't pull it out further, look for a mechanical jam somewhere (ie, something stopping it from coming out further).

The master and slave have this wierd relationship when bleeding, and if you don't fully return the master to its rest position on every pump, then it does what you've described.

Rebleed the clutch, but this time whenever you push down on the clutch pedal, pull it back up to its rest position by hand.

Should work fine after that.

[madmont]

My Hilux had a spring which helped when you depressed the clutch only problem with that was it held the pedal down after I had changed gearbox and clutch and pressure plate. I cured it by throwing the spring away.

[Admiral coFF33]

Once the nut is loose you spin the threaded shaft to adjust the pedal position.

Andrew

The shaft screws into the forky bit with the slip pin ??

Can you pull the pedal back to its original position?

no it appears that its being stopped by something

As above, try to pull it out further.
If you can't pull it out further, look for a mechanical jam somewhere (ie, something stopping it from coming out further).

The master and slave have this wierd relationship when bleeding, and if you don't fully return the master to its rest position on every pump, then it does what you've described.

Rebleed the clutch, but this time whenever you push down on the clutch pedal, pull it back up to its rest position by hand.

Should work fine after that.

i was hoping it would be something like that, but it seems more like a pedal position issue.

[assassin10000]

The shaft screws into the forky bit with the slip pin ??

Yep.

Andrew

[Admiral coFF33]

hrmmmzz


http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...tion=CL&Page=3

[Admiral coFF33]

Pedal HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

is completely different to what we have just thought about in the last 4 posts.

WTF

[CrUZida]

How was the position when it was in the donor car?

[Admiral coFF33]

high up, even with the brake pedal if not, a tad higher maybe ?

lots of tension

clutch engage point was:
If the pedal was not pressed, then pressed in like 2cm you could shift. (read: VERY HIGH)

now engage point is 2mm from floor and pedal does not return to original height as it was in the car i removed it from.

[Stomps]

How was the position when it was in the donor car?

perfect... the donor car was a factory manual gz10...

unless the new owner fucked with that too..

Stomps

[CrUZida]

You need to determine what is stopping the pedal from coming back all the way.

Whether its mechanical (due to either a jam, poor installation, or adjustment), or whether its hydraulic.

Chances are its mechanical. You just need to work out which bit.

[bk_]

I have this exact same issue with the R32 (don't curse me!). Basically a transplanted R33 rb25det + manual gearbox + pedals + master cylinder into an R32 auto.

The pedal is ~half way down than where it should be and it requires pressing all the way down to disengage the clutch.

BK.

[Admiral coFF33]

Post on celica-GTS forums:

If your car has cruise control like many of them do, there will be a switch in place of the bolt. You just unplug the switch, press down on the pedal a bit to take the pressure off of it, and then can spin the entire switch either in or out. The pedal height shouldn't ever change though, and shouldn't require any adjustment. I made my pedal come up a bit higher, but it was only for looks. The overall pedal length is going to effect the amount the clutch push rod gets pushed in to the master cylinder and it should be pretty close to perfect from the factory.
As far as adjusting the rod goes, you've got to loosen up the lock nut and then probably use a pair of pliers to turn it. If you're concerned about late engagement of the clutch, which it sounds like from your OP, you're gonna want to increase the pre load on the master, and that's gonna require turning the rod in towards the master cylinder. Don't go nuts with it though because if you don't give it the proper amount of play it's gonna be like driving with the pedal slightly depressed and you're gonna smoke your clutch. If you leave too much free play you're gonna possibly have a problem getting the car in gear and likely shred your synchros.
I like my clutch pedal set where the car will just start to move when you let the pedal up about 1 1/2" off the floor and fully engages the pressure plate at about 3". That's what I've gotten used to over the years. Some people like the pressure plate to engage fully very close to the top of the pedal travel, some like the thing way down on the floor.