clutch pedal is a bit under engineered lol but it works great.
Don't know if anyone is interested or not but i thought ill post it up anyway.
Had a 2T with t50 from a ta22 and a ke70 with a 4k
decided ill put the 2t into my ke70.
engine mounts lined up.
had to remove the drivers side gearbox to engine bracket to clear steering column.
used the standard ke gearbox crossmember with redrilled holes.
tailshaft fits but is probably a bit too long but ill find out more when i get to take it for a decent drive.
Clutch pedal wise we used the standard ke70 clutch pedal and mounted the master cylinder pretty low to make the pedal push rather than pull.
to fit the shifter i had to cut the trans tunnel out a bit towards the front of the car, but once that was done the standard ta22 shifter sits in a better position than the standard ke shifter. (in my opinion.)
the exhaust from the ta22 just needs to be shortened a bit where it goes over the diff.
ill post up pics.
Last edited by DR1FT; 18-11-2009 at 09:54 PM.
clutch pedal is a bit under engineered lol but it works great.
and a pic of the engine mount.
another thing i had to do is use the speedo drive out of the corolla gearbox as they are different
looks good mate. does it do skids ? and how does bang for buck stack up ?
so much stuff. so little time.
need to get a new clutch and get the exhaust finished tomorrow
thats some nice work dude , who come up with the idea of mounting the pedal there , he must be prittey smart , and powerfull
but this is a prittey easy conversion todo , i helped drift most of the way , this engine and a turbo it should be a very nice package ,
got my exhaust put on yesterday.
new heavy duty clutch is ordered so once thats in a can truly judge on how much more power i have but driving it with a slipping clutch and it picks up alot better and pulls alot harder in 3rd.
and even with a stuffed slutch it does better skids
g'day
now you gotta start searching for a 2t-g...
but great budget conversion dude, its good to know im not the only toymodder without a car fund, but some degreaser and a toilet brush on your whole engine bay would make it look a million bucks imo..
cheers,
tim
Originally Posted by gold28
plan is at this stage it forced induction and efi.
http://www.brdracing.com/index.htm this site has some fairly descent stuff for 2t's and 3t's and they make big power out of 3t's in the states
clutch is in. is alot better to drive now.
cant wait to slide it this weekend!
I did this too. some things which I did differently:
clutch:
fit a pedal box from te72 as it bolts in and has the correct clutch arrangement. firewall is even ready for the clutch master IIRC. beats hacking shit up every time.
gearbox crossmember:
fit a te72 gearbox crossmember and transmission mount, if you change to a t50 with rear shift position it all bolts in like factory.
gearbox:
use a te72 type box with rear shift position and early output spline. will position the shifter correctly to avoid the floor hack and will utilise the remote selectors and ae86 type selector flange so trd, t3, c's short shifters will work. also, the early output shaft spline will fit KE70/K40, KE70/K50 and TE72 T50 tailshafts, which can be used for either OE borgwarner or japanese T series rear ends.
I also changed engine crossmember and engine mounts and brackets to te72 to be sure of correct engine positioning and alignment. the k crossmember and mounts were not the same.
Last edited by SeptemberSquall; 27-11-2009 at 10:32 AM.
i pulled three hundred rocks from the land to build my house
i walked quiet through the forest like a tiny quiet forest mouse
the oceans will rise
please stand by the shore
I did mine (3tgte) as per Septembersquall, I did find that the engine/sump hits the steering rack so had to relive it a little with a hammer, nothing to drastic.
I belive the angle is slightly different between the t series mount and the k series, but have seen it done this way before. I also found when trying to do it this way and with a w series box the fire wall gets in the way, the te72 mount do shift the engine forward slightly and allows the w series box to clear.
Roger
yeah the bellhousing is close to the firewall so to pull the gearbox out i have to take the engine of the mounts and hold it forwards, then the geabox clears enough to pull it out and put it in.
i dont have issues with sump clearance and engine mounts worked perfect.
steering coloumn clears once i removed the gearbox bracket.
tansmission tunnel i only had to cut an inch or so forward but the shifter ends up sitting in a good spot. just made a plate to cover it up and sealed it with body sealing compound.
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