1uz's which version to get...is vvti the better starting point

[Wildsupra]

Looking into 1uz's again.
Basically will be installing engine with stock auto to begin with, then boosting it either via s/c or turbo later on along with a manual conversion prolly at same time.

Couple of questions

1 Which series motor as in soarer celsior or crown is the strongest engine or should i say most suitable for boosted application (unopened)?
2 Which one makes the most power in stock form?
3 Is it worth getting one of the vvti model 1uz's? which i basically have no idea when and what they were available in??
4 When it comes to wiring it up into another car not designed for 1uz which is the easiest to wire up? or are they all much of a muchness? Ive wired up a uzs132 1uz into my old crown, that wasnt too hard.
5 is there a particular series/model 1uz i should definatly stay away from?

Cheers in advance
Matty

[JustenGT8]

If you are going FI then definitely the pre 95 models are the ones to get...stronger rods and a tad less static compression. Nothing to write home about n/a but doesn't take much boost to liven them up and will take around 300rwkw of abuse forever.

The VVTi heads flows a heap better though so if doing a rebuild then they are the ones to go for.

A zillion variations on a theme but if truely unopened with bolt on FI then an early version with low kms is the pick.

[Wildsupra]

cheers mate great starting points there!
Is it worth using a vvti head without using the vvti operation itself? If i need to use the vvti operation aswell then id be better off going for one first off wouldnt i? so stock computer can contol all that shizzle to begin with?
Or are the vvti models too high compression wise for boosted applications hence only changing heads over if im pulling stock heads off a non vvti motor?

[Sciflyer]

Justen knows more about the VVTi side of things than i but suffice to say if you are going to boost any UZ engine you wont be using the stock ECU as they cant deal with any more than a few psi and severely limit tuning

Model-wise aside form sump position there are no significant differences between Celsior, Crown or Soarer 1UZs

[TTCorona]

Does anyone know what model cars the different sump variety's come out in?
i.e. front, middle, rear?

[Wildsupra]

Cheers sciflyer, although the other differences between models would be exhaust headers isnt it?? from memory crown being the worst for flow?
Stock ecu will be used in the beggining but most like adaptronic later on with boost. Although i do enjoy pushing stock ecu's right to their limits haha
How many psi are stock ecu's good for? ive heard of around 6 psi being acheivable??
ttcorona has asked my next question for me
which sump positions come out in what? Il be chasing front sump setup.
Cheers
Matty

[CrUZida]

Stock ecu "good" for about 6psi, although you trade in about 50rwkw doing so.

Headers are all different, but there are no guarantee's that what comes with your engine is what it had from factory (unless its still in the front cut) Wreckers swap things around all the time.

UZS131 - only mid
Soarer - only rear (albeit more mid-rear)
Celsior, Aristo, Crown (post UZS131) (ie, everything else) - all front

Wiring is all much of a muchness, VVT-i stuff will be a bit harder IF it has the can-bus system or security.

[JustenGT8]

cheers mate great starting points there!
Is it worth using a vvti head without using the vvti operation itself? If i need to use the vvti operation aswell then id be better off going for one first off wouldnt i? so stock computer can contol all that shizzle to begin with?
Or are the vvti models too high compression wise for boosted applications hence only changing heads over if im pulling stock heads off a non vvti motor?

No such thing as too high compression

Can lock or not activate VVti or better use a SM4 or whatever that can drive it.

VVTi has skinny rods though and won't last if you want decent power.

Forget stock ECU...they can handle up to approx 6psi (turbo dependant) but you won't make decent power. Maybe on a super tightarse budget proj i'd maybe think about it but standalone are so well priced better to save your pennies and do it right.

By the way VVTi and non VVti heads are NOT a straight swap.

[Sciflyer]

Stock manifolds range from shit to "ok", they all stifle power and response to varying degrees

About the best of the bunch are the cast iron VVTi ones (ive just finished fitting a set to my Soarer) but if you can use headers or make your own thats the way to go

[ed]

pre 95 non vvti is best bang for buck, easiest to wire stock ecu, easiest to mod on stock ecu, longest living stock internals if you want to play with bolt ons

vvti is the best engine, best flowing, highest performing, and the best basis for any kind of 'build' but by far the shittest option for stock ecu, unopened engine projects

[Norbie]

Just a note on the wiring side of things, the Crown 1UZ comes with separate engine and trans ECU while everything else has a single integrated ECU. I just discovered this the hard way as I bought a Crown engine with ECU and wiring, but found out it has no ECU to control my auto transmission - so I'm now looking into manual shift options.

[CrUZida]

Norbie, those ecu's do come up randomly on eBay, although it has been a long time since I've looked.

But the MA70 ECT Controller should do the exact some job (albeit missing control of one of the solenoids).

[Wildsupra]

ok so sounds like the best option is pre 95 model motor with custom headers he he
Norbie i have wired up the crown 1uz into my old crown and know exactly wot you mean about the 2 ecu's wasnt that hard in the end....but i had a halfcut and obviously had both ecu's.
Might look and see if i can pick up a cheap wrecked soarer or celsior or something then swap the sumps if need be. Might be the easiest way to get everything i could need straight up.

Peewee i gotta come visit you sometime to have a looksee at some bitties you may or may not have and i'l bring ya some burn notice too

[AndyTTR]

Just to give you an idea on pricing, I bought a '92 Soarer rolling shell with a running engine and drive-train for $1700.

Soarer half-cuts with lower km's usually start around $2k up to $2.5k depending on the importer. If you 'know people' you could buy a decent half cut for about $1000~$1500 (which is roughly the cost price down here in Vic).