Drag tyres/rims for FWD cars! !

[myne]

Just done some quick reading : Chassis extension.
You're effectively making the wheelbase 2m longer, but not only that, the bar is fixed, so it's physically impossible for the front wheels to lift with the weight transfer.

http://www.theoldone.com/archive/phy...wheeliebar.htm
http://www.kenskustomchassis.com/FWD_Wheelie_Bars.htm
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ehicles.html#9
http://www.fjoracing.com/images/Cust...20all-drag.jpg

Ok... maybe not impossible...
http://www.robinson-race-cars.co.uk/Wacker.htm

[draza]

ok the first guy to use wheelie bars on a FWD is also the first guy to get the first Unibody in the Nines.

The slicks expand and raise the front, but also reduce traction. FWD wheelie bars are one of the things that i wouldn't worry about.

http://www.importdrag.com/racers_EdBergenholtz.shtml

[camrygt?]

Just for reference in my sv21 sedan had 205 3sgte with 165kw at wheels 225hp? when I ran a 13.8 at 106mph with 2.40sec 60 foot time. Hit rev limit in 3rd about 5 metres from line so not worth the time to change. (sounds like much higher ratios than your running)
My best 60 foot time of the night was a 2.01 sec so it is possible to go much faster but I missed gear on that run and ran a 14.1
That was with 195's on standard 14 inch rims. $90 symex tyres running about 25 psi, non LSD V6 camry box.
Car was complete with spare tyre in the boot, tools, 5l spare water, 5l spare oil. All of the seats were still in.
The car has original springs all round and munroe GT gas shocks.
Also had a towball and the huge bar that runs under the car that goes with it.

My advice keep the front soft, basically standard make the back as stiff as possible and take everything out, spare tyre, seats etc.

with 400hp atws and even stock suspension a 12 should be easy.

I am now running subaru 215/45/17's no scraping at full lock. have a look where it scraps and give it a good whack with a hammer and you will be fine
3 mm or so spacers where needed on the back to clear the struts

[camrygt?]

Just one thing to be carfull of. After 4 runs pulling up from 106mph the single piston front brakes chewed the middle out of the brake pads and not as much from the ends. So the pedal ended up almost at the floor and still no brakes...5 people in the car and we almost died leaving the drags when the brakes couldn't pull us up...not cool.
I now have a full set of bannana shaped brake pads if anyone needs some.

[chris davey]

Just for reference in my sv21 sedan had 205 3sgte with 165kw at wheels 225hp? when I ran a 13.8 at 106mph with 2.40sec 60 foot time. Hit rev limit in 3rd about 5 metres from line so not worth the time to change. (sounds like much higher ratios than your running)
My best 60 foot time of the night was a 2.01 sec so it is possible to go much faster but I missed gear on that run and ran a 14.1
That was with 195's on standard 14 inch rims. $90 symex tyres running about 25 psi $90 symex tyres running about 25 psi, non LSD V6 camry box.
Car was complete with spare tyre in the boot, tools, 5l spare water, 5l spare oil. All of the seats were still in.
The car has original springs all round and munroe GT gas shocks.
Also had a towball and the huge bar that runs under the car that goes with it.

My advice keep the front soft, basically standard make the back as stiff as possible and take everything out, spare tyre, seats etc.

with 400hp atws and even stock suspension a 12 should be easy.

I am now running subaru 215/45/17's no scraping at full lock. have a look where it scraps and give it a good whack with a hammer and you will be fine
3 mm or so spacers where needed on the back to clear the struts

That is the key. Simex's rock

[_ShadowZ]

camrygt?, what boost was you car running and what rpm are you using as redline?? mine's at 14.7 psi (E-boost) and i'm using redline of 6500(don't know what I should be doing but havn't rebuilt the engine so don't wanna break shit I can't afford to fix). Also have you got any webspace with all the stats of you car? mine's at www.totalrpm.com/car/2323

draza, the lose of traction with wheels in the air is the main prob i have but it does it multiple times through first and second, and kill take off speed. so I end up using the other gears to get me across the line.

[chris davey]

draza, the lose of traction with wheels in the air wheels in the air is the main prob i have but it does it multiple times through first and second, and kill take off speed. so I end up using the other gears to get me across the line.

I'm sorry, WHAT??? How do you get your wheels in the air in a FWD?

[_ShadowZ]

cos they are losing traction there fore not gripping 100%. and as the car launches the weight shift goes to the rear as per any car and the wheels get reduced weight pushing them down. Once wheels lose this weight they spin, therefore losing traction/power then they drop back with weight shift and grip and go. So sorry they are not IN the air just heading that way but never actually making it.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

I think he maybe overexagerating it a bit. I think he means, there is so much weight shifting backwards when he launches, that there is no traction in the front.

[draza]

so improve the suspension set up and don't just floor it on take off. Lower the pressure that you're running in the front tyres, it will give you more traction. 14" rims and low pressure in the tyres will give you plenty of grip.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

so improve the suspension set up and don't just floor it on take off. Lower the pressure that you're running in the front tyres, it will give you more traction. 14" rims and low pressure in the tyres will give you plenty of grip.

But remember... he has koni shocks already

Honestly to the OP. Its all in the suspension. Get it sorted, and do as i suggested earlier (along with several others now). Tighten up the rear suspension as hard as you can.

If you want to keep it streetable, just swap the rear struts out for something harder when you goto the drags. Last i checked, it doesn't take much to remove the whole strut assembly in the rear of a camry. half hour work each side.

[camrygt?]

camrygt?, what boost was you car running and what rpm are you using as redline?? mine's at 14.7 psi (E-boost) and i'm using redline of 6500(don't know what I should be doing but havn't rebuilt the engine so don't wanna break shit I can't afford to fix). Also have you got any webspace with all the stats of you car? mine's at www.totalrpm.com/car/2323

draza, the lose of traction with wheels in the air is the main prob i have but it does it multiple times through first and second, and kill take off speed. so I end up using the other gears to get me across the line.

Motor was 100% stock 3rd gen 3sgte but with a 3inch exhaust. Standard boost which is about 12-13psi. Rev limit is 7200 changed at 7200 from 1st to 2nd and at about 7000 into 3rd.
You won't break a 3sgte from revs if it has the standard ecu. I don't have any webspace with stats but its on the old forums members rides somewhere search for st205 camry.

I had no traction problems at all once into 2nd. Full throttle at any speed in 2nd and there wasn't even a chirp.
1st was full throttle take off easing off the clutch at 3500 rpm then back off as boost came on and then full throttle again once at about 6000 no wheelspin at all if I got this right.
Tyres were very sticky after burnout. I know most people say road tyres don't grip much better with a burnout but the simex's seemed to.

Currently with the 215's I can easily get full throttle in second gear without wheel spin running 12 psi through a turbonetics t3/t4 and I could do the same running 18 psi with the CT20B, all with at least 70kgs of stereo and tool boxes in the boot.

I have a feeling your suspension may be too stiff in the front

[_ShadowZ]

-==L=a=N=c=E==-, I do always tend to overexagerate stuff, so sorry for past, present and future things that may come out my cake hole. LOL.

Also what shocks do you recomend for the arse end? I thought the koni's where fine but obviously not, due to a few comments. With the front's I still have the standard springs will that be a help at all or a complete waste of time/effort (king springs currently reside on all four corners.)

camrygt?, no standard ecu, i'm running a microtech lt-8. I got the st185 engine will that handle similar revs?

Well next time i go down to motorplex i'll take my 14's drop the pressure to 25psi, and make 100% sure the arse end is tightened and front is soft on the koni's and see what happens. Unfortunatly the season is closed for three months so i'll have a bit of time to kill in the mean time.

Thankyou guys very much for ALL your comments, suggestions and intellectial stuff. Greatly appreciated.

_ShadowZ

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

The koni's should be fine for what you want it for, it is the springs you'll need to look at.

Get the hardest springs you can find with the largest spring rate, and set your konis to HARD. This will help. That's for the rear only.

The front you can leave alone.

[_ShadowZ]

I spoke to my suspension guy today at the autotechnika car show, he reccomends a set of 50 punds springs in the rear ($250) and some semi-slicks on my stock 14's.
he also said the koni's should be set to hard on front and back as the adjustment only changes to rebound rate not the squat level(that's what the springs are for.).

Any comments on that guys???