99 4efe crank pulley bolt torque?

**StuC** · 19-09-2009, 11:49 AM

Finally doing the timing belt on this thing - whats the torque setting for the crank pulley bolt?
Specs for idler pulley and tensioner bolts?

**2jzhilux** · 19-09-2009, 12:04 PM

VALVE CLEARANCES Cold, not running
Inlet (mm) 0.15-0.25
Exhaust (mm) 0.30-0.40

Do a fuel filter too and a water pump and cam and crank seals while the t belt is off

**StuC** · 19-09-2009, 12:28 PM

thanks mate
im gonna call the workshop that has seviced it for the last few years and see what they have actually done. If belt and pump etc have been done i wont do it.

**StuC** · 11-03-2010, 08:31 AM

edited for new question - didnt want to start new thread

**mattysshop** · 11-03-2010, 08:49 AM

i got a belt for $13 (had a brand new tensioner already), and a new pump non genuine (asain brand made in japan) for $38, i had a vrs kit for the cam seals and front seals but i dare say separately these items would have been less than $20..

this was on a 4efte mind you.. the crank pulley..

FT + 1/8 turn is what i did mine up to.. or as much as the clutch would hold on

and the 4efte saw 7500rpm daily for 2 years since then..

**the_random_hero** · 11-03-2010, 10:13 AM

For a 5EFE it's 112ftlbs/152nm, so I would be assuming it would be very similar to that.

**StuC** · 11-03-2010, 10:25 AM

thanks guys. i was gonna do the clutch method so ill see what that is like.

**StuC** · 11-03-2010, 09:07 PM

ok so i've done the belt. it was 1 tooth out by the looks of things, however the car is still pinging but just not as much. Just to confirm timing....
The exhaust cam has 2 holes in different spokes, 1 labeled 4E the othre 5E. These line up with notches on the number 1 cam cap. There is 1 notch at approx 11 o'clock and the other at 2 o'clock.
The belt was setup with the 4E hole close to the one at 2 o'clock so i went with this notch arrangement. (see pic)

Im assuming they use the same cam gear on both the 4e and the 5e, but have i lined the wrong hole to the wrong notch? Now that i think about it at TDC both the Inlet + Ex cam lobes are on the base circle however are 'pointing' towards the exhaust more. In my head if i were to line the cams up to the other notch they would be on more of a true base.

Ideas/thoughts?

**2jzhilux** · 12-03-2010, 12:08 AM

There will be a timing mark on the top of the cam cap.
You need to line up the hole in the gear so you can see the mark on the cam cap directly through the hole. It helps if you get a mirror in there.
Im pretty sure that it would be in the 12 o clock position and then line up your crank at tdc and make sure both marks line up ande there is no slack between the cam and crank pulleys on the side that doesnt have the tensioner on it and it will be fine.

**mattysshop** · 12-03-2010, 08:29 AM

Originally Posted by 2jzhilux

There will be a timing mark on the top of the cam cap.
You need to line up the hole in the gear so you can see the mark on the cam cap directly through the hole. It helps if you get a mirror in there.
Im pretty sure that it would be in the 12 o clock position and then line up your crank at tdc and make sure both marks line up ande there is no slack between the cam and crank pulleys on the side that doesnt have the tensioner on it and it will be fine.

seconded..

remember the exhaust cam goes clockwise with the crank, and the inlet cam turns anti clockwise.. so the lobes don't have a traditional 9 o'clock - 3 o'clock appearance..

**StuC** · 12-03-2010, 09:16 AM

There wasnt a mark on the top of the cam cap. There were only the 2 notches on the front of it.I lined the hole in the camgear up with the mark at 2 o'clock. Ill pull it off again tomorrow and have another look.
Ill take some photos to show what i mean.

Thanks - Stu

PS: does anyone have a PDF for the workshop manual or a manual that they want to sell for the starlet?