Nobody has EVER come across this before? I really want to get this sorted so I can get the extractors finished.
Ok, I'm adding a remote filter and oil cooler setup to my 88 AW11. I have so far removed the factory water-oil cooler and replaced it with just bare pipe, removed the factory two-piece sandwich plate (I want all the room I can get around the back of the engine) and I have encountered a problem.
As some of you might know, the mounting surface on the block for the sandwich plate isn't perpendicular to the threaded section in the block where the union bolt screws in. Another problem I've encountered is there is a pressure relief valve built into the sandwich plate. Now, I was considering getting an angled spacer made up so the relocator plate will screw down square to the mounting surface (and therefore seal), but this still leaves me with the problem of the relief valve.
What should I do? If the factory sandwich plate wasn't so damn big I would just leave it...
EDIT: Another thing - is there a direct bolt-on throttlebody that will fit my car? I believe my wax pellet idle up has finally bitten the dust.
Last edited by the_random_hero; 09-08-2009 at 09:49 PM.
The above opinion is just that - my opinion. It is not shared by any business that I am currently or have previously been involved with, nor any of their employee's.
Nobody has EVER come across this before? I really want to get this sorted so I can get the extractors finished.
The above opinion is just that - my opinion. It is not shared by any business that I am currently or have previously been involved with, nor any of their employee's.
I've not seen this before, the Perma Cool remote oil filter kit I was going to use (which fit perfectly fine) threaded straight on with the adaptor fitting and that was that. Perhaps some pics to explain?
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
the mounting face on my 4A blocks is perpendicular with the threaded section in the block. I've been able to swap in the threaded part out of a JDM 4agze block or ADM 4ac block so the filter can screw directly onto the block without the oil cooler sandwich plate. I've also done this on 20V blocks after removing their massive alloy part that angles the filter away from the headers.
Sorry if I was a bit ambiguous, that pic should explain better. For reference, on the block where #1 Oil Filter Bracket mates is on an angle, the face that mates with the filter on #2 Oil Filter Bracket is angled the same so the union bolt is square on the filter end.
The above opinion is just that - my opinion. It is not shared by any business that I am currently or have previously been involved with, nor any of their employee's.
Alright, WHAT THE HELL AM I SMOKING? I just went out and checked it again, screwed the union bolt and it's perfectly square with the mounting surface. I was either affected by the copious amount of carby cleaner I'd been using, or just plain stupid
Question still remains about the relief valve though...
The above opinion is just that - my opinion. It is not shared by any business that I am currently or have previously been involved with, nor any of their employee's.
just run an external thermostat
the relief valve off the top of my head only opens up in over pressure and that then feeds the oil cooler. so its not a full flow (or even significant flow) cooler.
you should be able to remove it compeltly and just run straight from the block without worries about overpressurising the system as there is PRV in the oil pump assy.
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