Well I guess if you want good capacitors, you have to pay for them...
Dear Witzl. I'm glad that I have access to a Jaycar employee. I want to preface this that I am a fan of Jaycar and purchase most of my parts from there. However, I've found that over the last few years when I send an email to Jaycar about an issue or indeed, there was one item I purchased where the instructions said to contact Jaycar for a full data sheet, I never receive a reply to any of the messages. I am coming to the belief that Jaycar policy must be not be to answer emails even though it appears they encourage emails to be sent. Am I correct?.
Last edited by petergoudie; 08-08-2009 at 03:59 PM.
Well I guess if you want good capacitors, you have to pay for them...
Nope im talking about electros, i dont touch the tantalums. Piggybacking electros in an environment like a car ECU (hot, vibration, crowded PCB) is not a good idea imo, id rather get the correct cap straight off.
Plus they are dual layer boards which makes it a PITA as it is!
Hot melt glue solves the vibration issue.
So how would you know if your ECU was having problems with leaking caps? Apart from the obvious not being able to diagnose a problem after everything else is changed, or replicating symptoms on another car with the same ECU swapped in...what other tell tale signs are there?
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
The fact that when you pull the ECU apart you can see the caps leaking...
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
As noted some will/may be visibly leaking.
The last ECU I had to replace the capacitors in had an issue where there was residual current in the ECU after the ignition being turned off which kept it partially powered up due to the ECU's internal relay remaining energised. It was a capacitor issue and once replaced it's been fine.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
IMO, it's probably a good idea to replace the caps in an ECU of this age as a matter of course.
That way, you're not chasing your tail later to find the problem.
I opened up my EP82 (circa 1990) ECU and it was absolutely pristine inside.
Caps looked perfect. They had 105 deg C written on all of them...
AE90 Silvertop - GONE; 2001 ST215W GT-T Manual - SOLD; EP82 Starlet GT - Sold
Now driving 20V Turbo 1.8 N-S FWD
Did you test them for ESR? They could be dried out. (Then again, they could be fine.)
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