Some Body out there must have some answers ?????????????????
Wondering what exactly is required to convert a 4AGZE (AE101) to a 4AGTE uterlising the standard factory ZE ECU.
I already have a RWD inlet manifold assy and a bigport to small port adapter plate, looks like i need longer studs for this , ( do i need to run this plate or not ?.
What parts ( Factory Sensors / electrical plugs etc are needed and which plugs are not needed from the standard factory loom.
Is it easier to just run the RWD alternator setup? or something else.
Do i just use all the RWD water setup and pump also or leave the ZE water setup on it and rout it to the front of the car etc?
I already have a turbo manifold and RB25 turbo setup with dump pipe to go on.
Any info or contacts to talk to would be appreciated.
I am in the brisbane area.
Cheers Craig
Some Body out there must have some answers ?????????????????
Im sure this has been covered before.
Check the old forum www.toymods.org.au
This site also has what your looking for http://www.4age.net/tech/articles_tech.htm
Craig,
I'm currently setting up a gze for a sprinter, and i'm using the original alternator and water piping. You'll have to cut and reweld the waterpiping to face forward and use the remote thermostat, its one of those things thats much easier to understand when its sitting in front of you.
The alternator, can be mounted on the original plate,(but it is very bulky and useless) So you might want to make your own bracket. I'm using a bracket from a starlet, which actually bolts directly on the engine but the alternator needs to be modified slightly to fit in the mounting position. A tensioner is something else which you'll have to adapt to fit, go to a wreckers and get as many tensioners as u can, and ones bound to b close!
As for the rest of the set up, i dont see any reason why you wouldnt be able to use the standard comp with a turbo, although i would recommend using a aftermarket comp.
As mentioned there should be plenty of info out there on this setup, try www.club4ag.com (for tech and diagrams) and a toymods search is bound to come up with some useful stuff.
cheers
Craigy
4AGZE powered AE86
SR5 dual cab Hilux
265 powered VJ Valiant Charger
Friend of mine has done this conversion (Aeeightysix), and from the top of my head this is what he did.
- Sold supercharger
- Flipped throttle body on 100kw manifold to face right way
- Got a turbo and manifold made up
- Tee'd in a water and oil pickup for turbo feeds
- Got an oil return put into the sump
- Ran a rising rate reg to compensate for the turbo
- Moved alternator to other side i think
Not much else i can think of
refer to here: http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1291
- LeeRoy
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
You will also need ECU and some bigger injectors like 1J's to run any kinda boost.
no generally if you keep boost below 14psi you can use the standard ecu an injectors from the ZE, although i think that is getting close to the end of their cycle, plus ecu will fuel cut after that
89' MR2 AW11... His
00' MR2 ZZW30... Hers
depends, if you are using a bigport manifold to a small port head, yes you will need to run this plate, otherwise get a small port NA manifold and get it cut and shutOriginally Posted by BlueAE86
all except the shit that ran the SC, ie, sc relay, and iscv, but this will be replaced with the NA manifold version, which i think is mechanical. oh an you don't need to run your idle up etc, up to youWhat parts ( Factory Sensors / electrical plugs etc are needed and which plugs are not needed from the standard factory loom.
you will probably need NA brakets which go under the inlet manifoldIs it easier to just run the RWD alternator setup? or something else.
the water setup you had for the ZE should be fine, that shoudln't effect itDo i just use all the RWD water setup and pump also or leave the ZE water setup on it and rout it to the front of the car etc?
I am looking at this same thing for my mr2I already have a turbo manifold and RB25 turbo setup with dump pipe to go on.
Any info or contacts to talk to would be appreciated.
I am in the brisbane area.
Cheers Craig
89' MR2 AW11... His
00' MR2 ZZW30... Hers
The TPS switch do i use the ZE one and fit it to the RWD manifold or do i rewire the plug from the harness to suit the RWD harness connector ?
What is the recommended front mount intercooler piping to use 2" or 2.5", using an RB25 turbo with this setup and yes i believe it is a small port head but will look once supercharger etc is removed.
2.5 or bigger.
also you will need to remove/disable the tvis so the butterflys wont bend
AE86 - coming soon to a quiet mountain pass near you...
WRX - currently epa'd...
The std supercharged injector will cope like wiso says. You can get abit more out of them with a adjustable pressure reg.
Id stick with 2.5 inch intercooler pipe any bigger is a waste of time with the turbo you are planing to use+ will be more laggy.
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
I wont be using the TVIS as i will remove this and usethe big port to small port adapter plate if it is required.
Hey mate,
I have done this conversion. I will see what I can recall what we did to get it sorted ...
- I used a small port intake manifold with the TB swapped ends.
- I used the 4AG TPS and wax pellet style throttle body (removed the 4AGZE TPS and ICV)
- I used an 20V alternator. I couldnt find the genuine 4AG RWD alternator brackets so used the 20v and some 3mm steel plate to "tension" it. The alternator sits where the SC was.
- I had sourced some RWD 4AG water cooling lines as the 4AGZE ones made it bloody hard to remove the intake manifold easily. We had to modify these to match the cooling setup for the turbo.
- The only plugs I disconnected were the ICV, SC and SC bypass valve. I took the opportunity to cleanup some of the loom.
- I relocated the air temp sensor into the IC pipes feeding into the throttle body.
- I used an AE82 throttle cable and needed to source a custom bracket but I think you will have this sorted with the RWD intake manifold.
- I am pretty sure I replaced the water pump while I was in there but cant recall if it included any other mods.
Other pointless info
- The long motor was untouched ... including its nasty blow by. Watch out for this with the turbo as it seems to make mine pretty smoky. Make sure you use a one way valve for the breather if you feed it back into the intake manifold.
- I am using the factory AE101 4AGZE MAP/DLI ECU, factory injectors, factory pump, are you getting the drift ... and the thing runs VERY rich.
- I take the water cooling feed for the turbo from under the intake manifold and the return line T's into the throttle body.
Dunno what else ... if you have a question then fire away.
Denis
Thanks Denis
I two have got hold of the RWD water pipe setup and also currently have the RWD Alternator in which i am about to trial fit very shortly as i am currently running the RWD
4AG in the car now.
I am usinfg the complete RWD manifold and TPS in which i have wired up .
I am yet to connect the water lines for the turbo.
I am going to run a remote oil filter/cooler setup and using a Tee piece from the oil PX sensor get the oil feed for the turbo
I am hoping to remove the 4AG and install and go for fittment of this setup within the next couple of weeks.
I have a front mount and 2.5" piping and have a new dump pipe of the turbo with a three inch outlet and am going to run don two a 3 inch cat then unsure of going back to 2.5 inch or going all the way 3inch, any ideas hear.
Also what sort of RWD KW did you achieve with your setup and what turbo were you running
How did you find the low down driveability without the TVIS setup ?
Cheers Craig
that probably why your engine is smoky. remove the one way valve and route the breather pipe before the turbo so it's in a vacum, run it via a catch can.Originally Posted by Sprinter
think about it, you will have internal crankcase pressure and your blocking off the breather when your on boost.
tee into the heater lines.Originally Posted by BlueAE86
please use a remote mounted tee peice, run some braided line from the block to the tee peice and tee peice to turbo. fitting a tee peice directly to the block for the oil pressure sender and turbo oil feed isnt a good idea as they tend to crack/break off at the block.using a Tee piece from the oil PX sensor get the oil feed for the turbo
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