3sgte rebuild in ST185 advice wanted

[JJsTA22]

Hi All, This is my first post in the forum so sorry if I’m going over stuff that has already been covered.

I blew the head gasket again after paying just over 2G a year ago to get it fixed, so now I’m doing it myself as I don’t trust any local mechanics to do the job. I took the head off and found there was still corrosion in the water lines after it was apparently fixed last year. Got it welded up and tested and cleaned, was about to put it back on and changed my mind. Now looking to rebuild the engine from the ground up as the CT26 turbo could do with replacing.

I’m looking for suggestions on what I should do…here are some details on the car at the moment..
GroupA front bumper, bonnet and intercooler
ST205 gearbox
Heavyduty button clutch installed about 18months ago

I’m currently thinking of doing the following mods
Forged pistons
GT3076R turbo
Bigger cams

Just looking for info on what kinda work im looking at like custom manifolds and that kinda stuff and possible if anyone knows a good place either on the sunshine coast or in Brisbane where I can get some stuff made us.

Thanks in advance and here are some pics of how she used to look.

[thechuckster]

out of interest - who did your head work previously (I'm at Maleny/Conondale)? can PM if you like.

I got block work done at Cabulture Engine Reconditioners and they sourced me Wiseco forged pistons after they didn't get around to CP slugs from the US when the dollar was good.

Terry O out and Road-n-Track might be a useful port of call.

As for manifold construction, not sure except that a lot of folks like 6Boost


edit: i got an eBay engine gasket kit (CNSAutoparts) but sourced the copper washers for the oil-feed banjo bolt, re-used the turbo gaskets and got an ACL metal head gasket ebay. All much cheaper than buying locally. You could also try Cruzin Auto Spares at Nambour for some spares (tho it has changed ownership recently).

[JJsTA22]

Thanks for the reply chuckster, Barnes High proformance in Nambour did my head gasket last year, they forgot to connect a few cables after doind the job so alternator was not charging batery and then about 2 months later found the engine earth cable was not connected and ended up burning out a bunch of other earths in the car took an auto elec about a monthto get it all working again.

[Roundy]

How far do you want to go??

ARP Bolts for head and rods
Eagle rods are ~200g lighter than stock
Upgraded valve springs, performance springs do a good one for the 3S-GTE

You don't necessarily need a new manifold, you could get an adapter for the stock one.

I have been told a 3076 is quite large for a 2L, won't hit full boost til after 4k but i have no experience in that myself.

You will also need:
Larger injectors
Bigger fuel pump
programmable ECU
Possibly mods to the fuel rail (some say it isn't big enough)

[JJsTA22]

well at the moment i'm thinking if i'm going to do it i may as well do it right, was looking at this site http://www.koracing.net/viewproduct....11&product=222 turbo kit will be just under 3G + shipping but looked through the site more and they seem to do everything head bolts, cams, injectors pretty much everything.

As for the turbo i'm still on the fence, from what i have seen so far it looked like the 3076 will pull from about 1800rpm through to redline, but as i said i'm still on the fence.

Roundy are you still running the GT2871RS(sorry did not read everything about your car, looks good though). what upgrades have you needed to do on yours?

The Car is now in project mode and i should have my TA22 back on the road in a week or 2 so the GT4 can stay in project mode for awhile as the hip pocket is pretty light atm

if anyone knows where i can get the parts cheaper i'm all ears

Thanks again.

[Roundy]

You will have to add ~20% to the cost of that turbo kit as well for Duty and GST

I am still running the GT2871RS

Runs stock management, stock fuel system, stock engine, stock clutch etc etc etc.

I am not using its full potential, however at 10psi it outruns CT26s at 12psi

I got a custom manifold made up for it, a different fitting for the oil feed from the engine and the return to the sump, and a custom fitting in the top radiator hose for the water fitting (ie a 45* steel bend with fitting welded to it)

If you are looking at a larger turbo such as the 3076, and cams i would strongly recommend eagle rods to allow you to safely rev it higher than stock

[Cuts]

depending on what exhaust housing you get weather a 3076 would be too big for it. And what you plan on doing with it.

if its a daily and you want the responce the 2871 like nath has is the go with a .64 rear housing.

Im using a gt3082 with a .64 rear housing, its not fully tuned for this turbo (eg cam timing hasnt been played with etc) Im using a 6boost manifold and i see 1 bar by 3700. With some tuning adjustment i expect this will drop a hundred rpm or so.

[JJsTA22]

Thanks for the info guys, also now looking replacing shocks and suggestions?

[jfallen]

Ditch the ST185 block or sell it to a chump as a complete unit (I got $1500 for mine .) Get hold of an ST215 or better yet ST246 Caldina motor (for similar money) and wave goodbye to that distributer and bucket under shim lifters once and for all (also you'll be able to leave the bottom end alone). Also don't forget to budget close to $10G's for what you're wanting. Don't forget the (just checked on my caldina) the top feed 550cc injectors, remote mounted oil filter , side inlet manifold and much better designed inlet ports. All in all the Caldina block is a fair step in the right direction. You'll be able to sell the turbofold to a chump (like me,) the 550cc top fed injectors to someone with a 4AGE or CA18DET if you want bigger than 550cc (which you, looking at what turbo's you're thinking about will.)

Good luck you'll need it from a veteran of 2 GT4's and now prod owner of a Caldina GT-T.

As for suspension, Tein SS are a good starting place for the street, as is a complete bushing kit, new sway bars, aluminium rear diff mount, some ST205 or MY99 Front Brakes and an ORC twinplate clutch.

Like I said $10G's is a loose figure.

Cheers
Jordan

P.S: after reading your first post again and reading about water corrosion definitely ditch the old donk.

[JJsTA22]

Thanks for the input Jordan, although not sure i want to go that far with a different bottom end, was gonna get it reco'd as head has already been reco'd and look heaps better now, that's kinda what started the complete rebuild just couldn't put the new looking head back on dirty block that could have issues, i've already prices up the forged pistons, racing gasket set and block reco, should workout around $1500 or so, as for the 10g it's not that bad already spent about that much on the car in the 3 years i've had her and for some reason i just don't seem to care how much it takes out of my pocket

Thanks again for the input.

[mr2mark]

well at the moment i'm thinking if i'm going to do it i may as well do it right, was looking at this site http://www.koracing.net/viewproduct....11&product=222 turbo kit will be just under 3G + shipping but looked through the site more and they seem to do everything head bolts, cams, injectors pretty much everything.

As for the turbo i'm still on the fence, from what i have seen so far it looked like the 3076 will pull from about 1800rpm through to redline, but as i said i'm still on the fence.
Thanks again.

I have the KO kit for my mr2. I got the .63 gt3076r and made 393 whp odd halfway through tuning and then a tyre exploded on the dyno so I expect a little more is there. I kind of regret not just buying the gt3582r with this kit now actually. I was concerned with not wanting a laggy car when I built but once I drove it the first time after tuning lag is not nearly as important to me anymore. Im entertaining making my own twin scroll setup for a gt35 now actually.
Its pretty well made and I have no complaints with it. There arnt any missing bits or problems I found, Its pretty much just a bolt up affair.

If you are looking at a larger turbo such as the 3076, and cams i would strongly recommend eagle rods to allow you to safely rev it higher than stock

mr2oc has much discussion on this and the general consensus seems to be that stock rods (shot-peened) are tank and will handle up to 500 whp just fine. They are heavy though and that is why I went with the eagles.

Ditch the ST185 block or sell it to a chump as a complete unit (I got $1500 for mine .) Get hold of an ST215 or better yet ST246 Caldina motor (for similar money) and wave goodbye to that distributer and bucket under shim lifters once and for all (also you'll be able to leave the bottom end alone). Also don't forget to budget close to $10G's for what you're wanting. Don't forget the (just checked on my caldina) the top feed 550cc injectors, remote mounted oil filter , side inlet manifold and much better designed inlet ports. All in all the Caldina block is a fair step in the right direction. You'll be able to sell the turbofold to a chump (like me,) the 550cc top fed injectors to someone with a 4AGE or CA18DET if you want bigger than 550cc (which you, looking at what turbo's you're thinking about will.)

Gen 3 motor has good advantages stock for stock over gen2 but if you are heading in gt3076r power territory they pretty much even out with the mods you get.

-my dizzy is now just a crank angle sensor to my wolf and it signals 4 ls1 coilpacks (scored for 10 dollars each off ebay!) get some custom ignition leads made and a few connectors for the coilpacks and it was cheap and easy and performs well.
-I went 2zz shimless buckets conversion anyway
-gt3076 power you will need bigger than 550 injectors anyway as jfallen says, I have 800cc sards.
-I got a remote oil filter sitting in my garage but without aircon in the way its no need in the mr2 and Ill be selling it.
-I got a aftermarket rmr intake mani anyway.
-port design stock for stock gen 3 is better but as you say once you port the head, cams, oversize valves etc that advantage is gone.

[Haynesie]

Hey there I am about to recieve my 6boost manifold and soon gt3076r I will be running a .62 rear. Will let you know how it goes on the gen 4. I definately recommend 6boost for your manifold, sure they are pricey but you get what you pay for. Like lifetime warranty you crack it he replaces it and hpc coating add to that the high quality finish why would you buy an ebay manifold!

[JJsTA22]

Haynesie, can i ask how much the manifold set you back?

mr2mark thanks for all the input mate.

[Roundy]

Yeah the fact that the eagles are lighter is the main advantage. 200g lighter per rod is just enormous!

How do you find the 3076R? What boost are you running and when does it hit that figure?

[Haynesie]

hey jj the 6boost cost me $1300 but its worth every cent. If you get the chance check out cuts st205 in forum members rides has some pics and video and he is running similar manifold (6boost Gen3).