CT26 and CT15B and CT20B differences

[Biggus]

That's exactly why I asked what you are trying to do

If you need as much peak power as you can get and you are prepared to live with a very narrow power band, then you could probably make a case for trying the 15bs. But I suspect that the car will probably be slower than a pair of healthy 12as with a good set of dump pipes and a decent tune.

[shezyworld]

That's exactly why I asked what you are trying to do

If you need as much peak power as you can get and you are prepared to live with a very narrow power band, then you could probably make a case for trying the 15bs. But I suspect that the car will probably be slower than a pair of healthy 12as with a good set of dump pipes and a decent tune.

all right, right now i have t fabricate custom piping for the twins inlet and for the intercooler piping. i am thinking to save the fabrication work and effort which i will have to do again when i will buy a big single turbo like t88 or something similar. now i can fabricate a single turbo manifold and then put just one ct15b on it and do the piping accordingly. later in time i will just need to do very few adjustments to replace that with a bigger turbo.

otherwise if i leave these ct12bs in and then later i will have to remove all the piping and do all fabrication again for a single turbo setup. the single ct15b can easily give around 1 bar safe zone with 2jz injectors.

whats your thoughts on it?

[Biggus]

You haven't really said what you want from the car, so when you say that you're looking at a T88, I have to assume that you don't mind a very narrow power band. If you really want to get a lot of future work out of the way now, make a manifold for your future turbo now and run the standard twins until you are able to obtain that future turbo.

Probably worth mentioning that CT15bs can fail without much more than standard boost, although some (most?) are more than happy at 1 bar.

My assumption is that you're going to use the car for drag racing or dyno events. Would that be accurate?

[shezyworld]

You haven't really said what you want from the car, so when you say that you're looking at a T88, I have to assume that you don't mind a very narrow power band. If you really want to get a lot of future work out of the way now, make a manifold for your future turbo now and run the standard twins until you are able to obtain that future turbo.

Probably worth mentioning that CT15bs can fail without much more than standard boost, although some (most?) are more than happy at 1 bar.

My assumption is that you're going to use the car for drag racing or dyno events. Would that be accurate?

got your point, well first let me tell you about my future goals. I want to take the car to max 500hp on the wheels and then enjoy it for like a year or so and then sell it. my goals are not like making it the fastest vehicle in town or so. ok, from your info one thing is clear to me, I will not use the ct15 I have. I will leave them intact to the engines they came with and wait for anyone to buy the engines. I will so far drive and tune the car on the twins with Emanage blue which I have. when the twins will reach its max capability which happens to be 13psi(read from internet, they say its safe zone), and they happen to fail at anything above 13psi.

meanwhile I will be saving up on cash and once I have enough money, I will go for bigger injectors and turbo to take it to around 500hp on wheels. what are your suggestions on this? few friends suggested garret gt35r for my goals.

[Biggus]

they happen to fail at anything above 13psi.

Not necessarily true.

With the standard cast iron dumps, yes, the heat often kills them very quickly. There's plenty that can be done to fix that though. Someone here in Australia ran a 10.636 second quarter mile last time I looked into it, and there have been a few that have gone quite deep into the 11s. Set it up properly, tune it properly, give it good fuel and solid maintenance and you might well be surprised. Of course if the turbos have lived a hard life with little care, they might blow at less than standard boost.

Injectors will depend partly on the fuel you are using, partly on your power goal and partly on your engine management. The Blue is pretty good for what it is, but it is quite limited in functionality. It can't add ignition timing, it can only take it away. It can be finicky with significantly larger injectors. Upgrading to an Emanage Ultimate will give you a bit more flexibility, but it will still be a bit of a compromise compared to a proper standalone ECU. That said, I would run an Ultimate without too many worries so long as I had a good tuner available, and the Blue is probably good enough to get decent power with a close-to-standard setup.

GT35R is an excellent choice for your goals. I'd suggest a set of cams too. I would personally get a GT3576R just to have much quicker spool at the expense of a little bit of power though.

[shezyworld]

Not necessarily true.

With the standard cast iron dumps, yes, the heat often kills them very quickly. There's plenty that can be done to fix that though. Someone here in Australia ran a 10.636 second quarter mile last time I looked into it, and there have been a few that have gone quite deep into the 11s. Set it up properly, tune it properly, give it good fuel and solid maintenance and you might well be surprised. Of course if the turbos have lived a hard life with little care, they might blow at less than standard boost.

Injectors will depend partly on the fuel you are using, partly on your power goal and partly on your engine management. The Blue is pretty good for what it is, but it is quite limited in functionality. It can't add ignition timing, it can only take it away. It can be finicky with significantly larger injectors. Upgrading to an Emanage Ultimate will give you a bit more flexibility, but it will still be a bit of a compromise compared to a proper standalone ECU. That said, I would run an Ultimate without too many worries so long as I had a good tuner available, and the Blue is probably good enough to get decent power with a close-to-standard setup.

GT35R is an excellent choice for your goals. I'd suggest a set of cams too. I would personally get a GT3576R just to have much quicker spool at the expense of a little bit of power though.

thanks a lot man, I get your point here. as far as fuel is concerned, we have pretty dirty fuel being sold, my stock family Honda civic 9th generation cat got blocked just after 35000kms of running, you can imagine the quality of fuel. however for racing, we use 91ron available from some fuel stations, and racing fuel available at some tuning shops. last night I was sitting with my tuner and we decided to tune the 1j with the blue for some until its stock. meanwhile once I have enough cash I will put in a gt35 and bigger injectors and a stand alone ecu like AEM.

can you hook me up with someone who has a hands on experience of wiring the Emanage blue on a 1j? I need to know the jumper setting in the initial setup

[Biggus]

No idea, sorry.

You are going to have to be pretty conservative running 91RON.

[Cuts]

I can't say I think it's a great idea when there is better options. However I would be very interested in the results, it would be much better with a 2j bottom end.