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Thread: ra23/ra28 linkage to cable for 18rgu

  1. #1
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default ra23/ra28 linkage to cable for 18rgu

    Hi everyone

    My brother has an ra23 and a 28 and he is wanting to convert one to an 18rgu. i guess as the front end of both cars are the same it should be to same conversion??
    Being that he is computer illiterate i have been doing the info searching.

    I have searched the old and the new forums and read that ra40, ra60, ra65, mx62, VH commonhore pedals and cables fit. I was hoping that some of you brains of the toyota world could help out and enlighten my brother (and me as i already have cable) in how to change the throttle from link to cable.

    Detailed explaination and pics on the easiest way would be great as he and I ill be doing this ourselves and have to say that im no backyard mechanic and nor is he so please baby us if possible .

    hopefully this will help other newbies like us in the future.

  2. #2
    Junior Member Carport Converter TA-022's Avatar
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    Default Re: ra23/ra28 linkage to cable for 18rgu

    have this setup in my car .... will pgotograph for you.

    done ask me how its done cos i got my car like this.

    pretty much ...

    cable type pedal - cable - bracket on firewall holding cable- cable - bracket on carby/s - cable to carby lever thing a ma bob.

    brett_celica_coupe on here can explain it better
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  3. #3
    Official Off Topic KING! Conversion King stradlater's Avatar
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    Default Re: ra23/ra28 linkage to cable for 18rgu

    Alright...

    Firstly, you'll notice that the ra23 pedal is 'clipped' to the floor in the ra23. This just pulls off, pretty hard, but it'll pull off. It only rests against the actual pedal mechanism, so to get rid of it, just pull.

    I'm going to go ahead and describe how it's done with a 1982 sigma pedal and cable, as that's what I've just used myself.

    Unclip all the throttle linkages from the engine all the way back to the top of the pedal. These just pull apart at the ball joints. Bin them, we won't be using them.

    Now you're left with a pedal bolted via two bolts to the floor. These are 10mm heads. Un bolt them. Pedal will come out.

    Now you should have your 1982 sigma pedal and cable. You'll notice that the throttle end of the cable has a fitting that may be mildly larger than the space available for it on your throttle pivot. You may need to grind this back a bit. (I did).

    Pedal:

    At this point, I'd recommend putting the pedal in place over the two bolt holes in the floor. Even finger tighten one or two bolts in place to hold it there. You'll notice that the pedal arm MAY be a bit on the wrong angle. You may need to bend it a bit. If so, I'd recommend disassembling the whole pedal arm (pull out the split pin and so forth) and putting the arm in a vice and bending it any which way you require. Clean up the pivtol bar and put it back together with some grease on it to help it pivot.

    You could now put the pedal in place and bolt it in. You don't have to, I left mine till last, as the cable is harder to do and you might need to get to the spot where the pedal sits. Otherwise, bolt it in if you like.

    Cable:

    As said earlier, the throttle end (engine end if you like) of the cable has a crimped cable fitting on it. This fitting may be a touch too big for the space available on your throttle. If so, CAREFULLY grind it away until it fits in your throttle. This is a bit of an iterative 'suck it and see' process.

    You'll need to fabricate a little fastener to hold the end of the sheath on the throttle cable. There should be an appropriate one you can 'acquire' from the donor sigma. You may need to bend it/drill it/grind it a little to make it fit. Find an appropriate position on or around the throttle body to secure the fastener and hence the end of the cable. NOTE: This should not be too far away from throttle pivot itself, you don't want TOO much bare cable showing.

    At the fire wall you will notice the hole that the throttle linkage used to go through. You will also notice that firewall end of the cable has a fitting on it that's roughtly a diamond shape and it has two screw/bolt holes either side of it. You can get away with only using one of these. Line the Diamond up over the firewall hole such that one of the two screw holes is comfortably over the firewall metal. Mark the center of the screw hole as you will be drilling a hole in the firewall at this spot.

    Remove the cable from the engine bay. Use a small enough drill bit to create a hole for a self tapping metal screw. Drill hole.

    By now you have both ends of the cable sorted, you just need to fabricate/locate a point to fasten the length controlling mount on the cable sheath. This particular point is pretty important because it can determine exactly how responsive your throttle is and exactly how 'tight' the cable is.

    I fabricated mine by means of being up a long piece of aluminium. It was a very simple "L" shape that connected on one end to the engine and the other to the mount on the cable. You can be a bit creative at this point, and if your real lucky you might find a position you can bolt it to your engine.

    So now you have all the mounts sorted, you can start by screwing a self tapping screw through one of the holes in the diamond that connects to the firewall. This will secure the fire wall end of the cable.

    Secondly, fit the cable end onto the throttle itself (engine side). Now bolt the engine side mount to the mount you first fabricated.

    Now that both ends are fixed, bolt the cable to the second mount you made. Here's where you can accurately tighten the cable and make sure there's no slack in the cable.

    Now you can get under the dash and hook the firewall end of the cable to the top of the accelerator pedal. You'll notice that you just bend the metal up a bit and slot the crimped fitting in. Once it's in, just close up the metal flap.. Now you've got yourself a fitted throttle cable.

    I know it sounds easy enough, but there are a few things you'll have to use your own imagination about. That said, this should apply to any engine type in an ra23.

    Below is a rough photo of how it's layed out in my car.

    I hope this has been of use. Please don't forget to spread the rep love if you did find it useful.

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  4. #4
    I even do the dishes as Domestic Engineer Rodger's Avatar
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    Default Re: ra23/ra28 linkage to cable for 18rgu

    krohla-10

    Try the thread I started earlier to see what I do. I make a kit that I can sell you to convert to cable in the 18R-G/Solex set up.

    http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4064

    Regards

    Rodger

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