When my 7M went, the knocking sound happened from about 1500rpm-3500rpm and then went away.
w51 adaper ring anyone? the block is essentially sthe same, that adapter ring will fit the fe =)
When my 7M went, the knocking sound happened from about 1500rpm-3500rpm and then went away.
Must.... avoid.... urge... to... upgrade... parts I haven't.... used.... yet.....
Soarer
The 3vz-fe is equally as strong as a 5vz-fe. They are the strongest v6's Toyota has built to date. (Until the GR's get proven.) They are as bulletproof as the maintenance on them allows.
Toyo Truck
I'm glad to see you:
1) Found out it's the 3vz-e, and 3vz-fe (Cause I was going nuts reading the thread lol!)
2) You searched & found things I have written about the 3vz-e VS 3vz-fe.
3) You missed the boat on 5vz-fe swaps. People have done it on the truck forums.
I would start by ditching the 20W-50 oil. That is too thick! The OEM was 5w-30, 10w-30, and in super hot climates 10w-40. Putting 20w-50 in it is nothing mroe than trying to cover a problem & reducing oil flow.
AFA troubleshooting:
1) Check that #2 sparkplug carefully for signs of damage. For that matter. Replace them all. NGK # 5553.
2) Check the EGR valve. If it's not flowing enough at part throttle, you'll run lean & ping.
3) Check compression/leak-down test
The 3vz-e only has valve damage problems on the #6 piston, which is restricted in flow by it's poor cross-over pipe which overheats it from not having enough cooling in that area. So don't worry about a valve problem.
Sorry guys, didn't have a chance to look at the internet all weekend,
was at the 2006 Tuff Truck Challenge....AWESOME day out. 454 big blocks sound sweet!
But Thanks heaps for the info Toysrme,
The amount of info on Yotatech is amazing! I spent like 4 hours on there the other night!!
But yeah, you certainly know your stuff bout Toyotas dude!
And you US boys certainly love ya 4runners hey.
I didn’t realise there was that much of a following there for em.
I thought it was mostly jeeps and broncos and stuff. Good to see Toyota 4WDs are
Spanking all other brands over there as they do here!
We will switch the oil back to castrol Magnatec instead. That’s 10W40
I’m pretty sure and runs in my 7M-GE and 22R a treat! Would that be OK for the 3VZ-E?
We were running magnatec originally, before the issue became apparent, but my mate
put in 20W50 thinking this would help.
We will also check/replace the Sparkplugs and leads. I think the sparkies were
Replaced not long ago, but I will check, also we will test the EGR valve for flow,
As well as buy a new compression tester and go through and test comp.
If this doesn’t yield any results, we were going to take the motor out soon and crack the bottom off it and check that crankshaft, if it can be rebuilt (just the bottom end) this shouldn’t cost too much, if it is completely fingered, then we will probably just swap in another import 3V-ZE.
After all, the priority of this vehicle is offroad useage. So the money will be spent on diff locks, slider bars, lift, and other offroad weaponry. Plus the motors we looked at have a 3 year warranty!!! Swwwweeeet.
Cheers,
Bart
Awwww thanks. Ya 'yota power is pretty big here. It's not a domestic popularity, but everyone see's yota stuff on the tails & you never see anyone sell a toyota truck/suv short on a trail. It's not like people compairing a Kia with a Toyota when it comes to 4*4 stuff! Even the hard nosers will give credit.
If you're going to rebuild it. Fab a working Y-pipe. Headers if you have too, but the stock cross-over pipe is only good for two things:
1) heating the #4 cylinder area creating a hotspot / blowing an allready weakened gasket / burning the #6 exhaust valve
2) tied with the 2.5L 2vz-fe for the second "easyest Toyota v6 to turbocharge on earth".
No idea on that oil. I always check at bobistheoilguy.com. Lot of smart people there. So long as it meets whatever the Toyota specification for oil is you're fine. Just change it before deminishing returns set in on it's life.
Good luck with it. Internet troubleshooting like this is always based off assumptions (Which are never good to do), but you don't seem like you are 100% on it's knocking, so I suggest troubleshoot from the cheaper end first.
I can't remember off-hand how to drop a 3vz-e pan, but generally there is jsut a little transmission bell housing cover plate Toyota installs to protect the teeth of the flex-plate/flywheel that gets in the way.
Hey Toysrme,
Thanks once again for the golden info! + rep to you buddy!
Can these extractors be purchased aftermarket anywhere? As we have no tools to fab
a Y pipe at my place. Can you explain more about this "cross-over pipe" and what it
does for the motor (or what it was designed to do)?
How does the 3VZ-Es go with a snail on it?? Would sound hella sweet too.
Yeah that is the cover that I am talking about, it is bent outward and covers half of
3 of the sump bolts. Can we just hammer love it back into its original position, or will this
damage the flywheel also?
What is the best way to gain access to the sump bolts behind the cover?
Cheers,
Bart
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