It'll be well-tough steel, but a tungsten drill should cut it quite happily, it'll cost you though. Drill that bitch out.
RM.
Get a dremel and cut a useable shape back into the bolt.. ie slightly smaller imperial or whatever. With weaker bolts you could just use a grinder and cut straight grove straight across the middle and then use a chisel to whack oneside/angle to turn it. But I very much doubt thatd work on a headbolt without simply cracking the top of the bolt off. So a dremel is your best bet (besides the welder option ofcourse)
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-Andrew
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A race continues forever...
It'll be well-tough steel, but a tungsten drill should cut it quite happily, it'll cost you though. Drill that bitch out.
RM.
done this so many times, it works a treatall else fails, drill the head of the bolt off, lift off head, and $10 says you can unscrew the remainder of the bolt with your fingers![]()
when i had my Head + BHG reco/fix, one of the bolts snapped inside the block, and some screw removalist dude had to come in and get the prick out...
since its the head, and if welding doesnt work, id grind the head of the bolt off, lift the head off, and then deal with the prick with a pair of vicegrips or similar..
thats if you want to use the block
Bes tof luck nathan, cars are sensitive bitches.
Eldar.O.
Oh, and many machining shops will do spark eroding, this is an easy way to get things out...
RM.
May sound daft and sorry if you've tried it but that about the screw/bolt removers you can get at like any where!! even bunnings, Like a drill bit. Drill it in and yank it out just like the welding idea but you screw the thing in. no heat so you cant warp your head which you DEF. could do with an OXY and with careless other types.
Well, welding failed. We tried welding a nut onto it, would just snap the weld, or the weld wouldnt penetrate far enough. We then tried melting a blob of weld and hammering a socket over it, didn't crack it either.
In the end, we went back to my original idea of drilling the f**ker out. Ironically, it was my cordless drill that was the most successful due to it's variable speed and overall lower speed. I drilled a nice hole smack bang in the middle of the bolt. After a while of f'ing around to try and get it working, mate sharpened a drill bit with the angle grinder and had a crack. The bit kept stopping the drill. On about the 3rd time of him hitting reverse, the bloody bolt caught on the bit and pulled it straight out of the block![]()
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
lol. score!![]()
Originally Posted by JustCallMeFrank
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danger, will robinson, danger !!!
../delete/ban
tech moderator
E46 M3 Nürburgring Nordschleife - 8.38
that's possibly the most excessive use of an angle grinder I've heard of in the past few months at the least
Ive had to use oxy on a head bolt before to get it out, even to the point where we eventually had to decide if we wanted the head to live or not.. .
use caution when doing this,Too many people dont put a little oil on the thread to stop things siezing up.
A. if you get too much oil in the thread you can hydraulic the bolt and not tighten it properly, or in worst case, pop a section out of the block.
B. some manufacturers specify torques without lube, or with a specific lube.
in general though i agree "there's always time for lubricant"
my only other suggestion was going to be cut a slot in it, and get an impact driver with a big flat-head bit.
How did you expect him to sharpen it without a bench grinder?Originally Posted by ed_jza80
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Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
a file maybe ?![]()
Meh, too slow.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
yeah, personally I would have used one of my many files.
I'm guessing ed's reaction comes from the same source as mine - when I worked at the ambos, the number of partial/full amputations or arterial bleeds caused by angle grinders is really, really scary
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